LIBRARY 

UNIYBRSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

DAVIS 


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in  2007  with  funding  from 

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http://www.archive.org/details/farnngardeningseeOObrilrich 


FAEM-aAEDE^INa 

AISTD 

SEED-GROWING. 


BY 

FRANCIS     BRILL, 

OP  THK  MATTITUCK   (L.   I.)   SEED-FARM,  FORMEBLY  MABKET-GARDBNEB 
AND  SBKD-QBOWBB  AT  NBWABK,  N.  J. 


NEW  YORK: 
ORANGE  JUDD  AND  COMPANY, 

245     BROADWAY. 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

DAVIS 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1872,  by 

ORANGE   JUDD    &    CO., 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


inde:s: 


Asparagus 40 

"         Cutting  and  Bunching. . .  44 
"         Growing  for  Family  Use.  45 

"         Growing  Plants 40 

"        Planting  and  Cultivating  42 
'*        Preparation  and  Soil  for.  41 

"        Raisin^if  Seed  of 45 

"        Varieties   of 4(5 

Beans,  Bush  or  D  warf 4(5 

"      Planting   and  Cultivating.. .  47 

"      Pole  or  Running 49 

"      Preparino:  for  IVuirket 47 

"      Raising  '^Seed 47 

"      Soil  and  Preparation  for..  .  46 

"      Varieties  of 48 

Beets 50 

"    Gatherinij:  and  Storing 53 

"    Preparinir  for  Market 53 

"    Raising   Seed 53 

"    Soil  and   Preparation  for 51 

"    Sowing  and  Cultivating 51 

"    Varieties  of 50 

Broccoli 57 

Buildings   35 

Cabbages,  Earl  V 57 

"         Cutting  and  Marketing..  60 
"        Planting  and  Cultivating  60 

"         Raising  Seed 61 

"         Soil  and  Preparation  for.  57 
"         SowiM<>:  Seed  and  Grow- 
ing Plants 58 

"        Varieties 63 

Cabbages,  Late 65 

'•'•         Cutting  and  Marketing..  68 
"         Planting  and  Cultivating.  67 

Raising  Seed 68 

"         Soil  and    Preparation 65 

"         Sowing   Seed  and  Grow- 
ing Plants  66 

"         Storing  for  Winter  68 

"        Varieties 71 

Cabbage,  Turnip-  Rooted 72 

Carrots   75 

'■''      Gathering    and   Storing 77 

"      Preparing  for  Market 76 

"      Raising   Seed 77 

"      Soil  and   Preparation ...  75 

"      Sowing   and  Cultivating 75 

"      Varieties  of 78 

Cauliflower 72 

"  Marketino:  74 

"  Raising  Seed 74 

"          Soil  and  Preparation  for.  73 
"  Varieties .  75 

3 


Celery 79 

"     Planting  and  Cultivating 80 

"     Preparing  for  Market 82 

"     Raising  Seed 84 

"     Soil  and  Preparation 7y 

"     Sowing  Seed   and  Growing 

Plants \  80 

"     Storing  for  Market 84 

"     Varieties  of 85 

Cold-Franios  22 

Conclusion [  "149 

Corn 86 

"   Marketing 87 

"   Raising  Seed 88 

"    Soil  and  Preparation  for 86 

"    Varieties  of. 88 

Cucumbers. 89 

''         Marketing 91 

"         Raising  Seed 92 

"         Planting  and  Cultivating  89 

"         Varieties  of 93 

Egg-Plants 94 

"         Cutting  for  Market 97 

"         Raising  Seed 97 

"         Soil,  Planting  and  Culti- 

vation 96 

"         Sowing:  Seed  and  Grow- 
ing Plants 94 

"         Varieties  of... r 99 

Forcing-Pit 27 

Gardening,  Farm 8 

Market 7 

General  Management 149 

Herbs 100 

Horseradish 102 

"          Gathering  and  Storing.  104 
Planting   and   Cultiva- 
tion of mi 

"  Preparing  for  Market . .  104 

"  Soil    and    Preparation 

for 103 

Hot-Beds 25 

Implements,  Cultivator 29 

Dibble 31 

"  Forks 32 

"  Garden-Line 30 

"  Harrow 28 

Hoe 29 

"  Markers 30 

Plow 28 

"     *     Rake 30 

Shears 32 

Spade 29 

Trowel 32 


rr 


INDEX. 


Insects 19 

Introduction 5 

Kale 105 

Kohl-Rabi 72 

Leeks 106 

"    Planting  and  Cnltivation  of. .  107 

"    Preparing  for  Market 108 

"    Soil  and  Preparation  for 107 

"    Sowing    Seed   and   Growing 

Plants 107 

"    Varieties  of 108 

Lettnce. . . .   lOS 

"      Forcing 110 

"      Marketing Ill 

"      Planting  and  Cultivation ...  109 

*'      Raising  Seed Ill 

"      Soil  and  Preparation  for 109 

"      Sowing  Seed  and  Growing 

Plants 108 

*'      Varieties  of 112 

Machines,  Pan-Mill 34 

"         Seed-Sowers 31 

"         Wagons .35 

''         Wheelbarrows ...  34 

Manures  and  Manuring 12 

Mats,  Straw.. ..  32 

Melons,  Musk 113 

"       Gathering  for  Market 114 

"       Raising  Seed ..114 

"       Soil  and  Preparation  for. .  .113 

"       Varieties  of 114 

Melons,  Water 115 

"       Gatlierins?  for  Market 115 

*'       Raising  Seed 116 

"       Soil  and  Preparation  for. .  .115 

"       Varieties  of 116 

Number  of  Plants  or  Hills  on  an 

Acre 151 

Okra 117 

"    Cnltivation  of 118 

"    Cutting  for  Market 118 

"    Raising  Seed 118 

"    Varieties  of 118 

Onions 118 

"      Growing  Sets 122 

"      Preparinof  for  Market 122 

"      Raising  Seed 123 

"      Varieties  of 124 

Parsley 125 

"      Raising  Seed 126 

"      Varieties  of 126 

Parsnips 126 

"        Soil  and  Preparation  for. .  .127 

"       Varieties  of 127 

Peas 128 

"    Marketing 129 

"    Raising  Seed 129 

"    Soil  and  Preparation  for 128 

"    Sowing  and  Cultivation .   128 

*'    Varieties  of 130 

Peppers 130 

Marketing 131 

"       Raising  Seed 131 

"       Varieties  of 131 

Plowing,  Fall 38 


Potatoes 131 

*'       Soil,      Preparation,      and 

Planting 132 

"       Varieties  of IM 

Radishes 134 

'^      Marketing 135 

"       Raising  Seed 136 

"       Soil,      Preparation,      and 

Sowing 135 

"       Varieties  of 137 

Rhubarb  137 

"       Marketing 138 

"       Raising  Seed 138 

"       Soil  and  Planting 137 

"       Varieties  of....'. 138 

Roots,  Storing  for  Winter 36 

Sage 100 

Salsify  or  Oyster-Plant 138 

''      Marketing 138 

"      Raising  Seed 139 

"      Soil  and  Preparation  for 138 

Sashes 33 

Seed  Cloths 34 

"    Growing...., 10 

"    Harvesting  and  Cleaning 37 

"    Sowing 16 

Shutters 34 

Sieves 34 

Soil  and  Preparation 11 

Spinach — 137 

"       Marketing 140 

"       Raising  Seed 140 

"       Soil  and  Preparation  for. .  .139 

"       Varieties  of 140 

Squashes 141 

"        Marketing 141 

"        Raising  Seed 141 

"        Soil,  Planting,  etc.,  of 141 

"        Varieties  of. 142 

Summer  Savory 101 

Sweet  Marjoram 101 

Sweet  Potatoes 142 

"  '•        Growing  the  Plants. 142 

Marketing 143 

"  "        Soil. Preparation,  and 

Planting 143 

"         "       Varieties  of 144 

Thyme 101 

Tomatoes 144 

"        Growing  Plants 144 

"        MarketiUif 145 

"        Raising  Seed 145 

"        Soil,      Preparation,     and 

Planting 144 

"        Varieties  of ".  .145 

Tools  and  their  Uses 28 

Transplanting 17 

Turnips 146 

"      Harvesting  and  Storing 148 

"      Marketiiiir 147 

"      Raising  Seed 148 

"       Soil  and  Preparation 146 

"      Sowing  and  Cultivation 147 

"      Varieiies  of 148 

Vegetables  and  their  Seeds 40 


Farm-Gardening  and  Seed-Growing, 


IlSrTRODUCTIOK 

A  few  years  since,  while  residing  at  Newark,  N.  J., 
and  engaged  in  market-gardening  and  seed-growing,  the 
idea  of  writing  a  book  on  the  latter  subject  was  suggested 
to  me  by  one  of  the  editors  of  the  American  Agricul- 
turist. 

I  thought  the  matter  over,  and  finally  abandoned  the 
idea,  from  the  fact  that  I  did  not  believe  the  subject  con- 
tained matter  enough  for  a  separate  volume.  Since  my 
removal  to  the  eastern  part  of  Long  Island — a  section,  by 
the  way,  admirably  adapted  to  the  production  of  vegeta- 
bles and  seeds — and  noticing  the  interest  manifested  here 
by  the  farmers  in  matters  pertaining  to  gardening,  I  have 
concluded  to  write  a  book  on  the  leading  vegetables  and 
their  seeds. 

The  market-gardens  about  the  larger  cities,  especially 
New  York,  are  being,  one  by  one,  cut  up  for  building  pur- 
poses, to  accommodate  the  mass  of  people  whose  occupa- 
tions are  in  the  city,  but  who  are  obliged  to  find  a  dwelling- 
place  beyond  its  limits.  Hence  it  would  seem  that  the 
time  will  soon  be  when  the  consumer  must  depend  upon 
the  "farm-garden"  of  remote  districts  for  a  supply  of 
vegetables  of  many  kinds,  and  the  finer  sorts  alone,  which 
are  not  transportable,  will  be  the  principal  articles  grown 
near  the  city. 
5 


6  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

Even  now  there  are  many  places  where  land  can  be 
bought  for  the  amount  of  money  paid  annually  for  rent  by 
many  market-gardeners,  where  the  soil  is  as  well  adapted, 
naturally,  for  growing  many  vegetable  crops  as  any 
can  be. 

At  the  present  low  prices  of  produce  and  the  unequal 
price  of  labor,  farmers  can  no  longer  depend  upon  the 
usual  crops,  and  are  anxious  to  turn  their  ground  to  good 
account  by  growing  root  crops  and  other  vegetables  which 
may  be  transported  to  market  from  a  distance,  and  to  aid 
such  in  accomplishing  this  object  is  the  mission  of  one  part 
of  this  work. 

The  growing  of  seeds  has  become  an  important  branch 
of  farm  industry,  and  the  increasing  demand  for  all  leading 
seeds,  owing  to  the  constant  growth  of  our  country,  and 
the  accorapanyingly  increased  interest  in  horticulture,  ren- 
der this  business  worthy  the  attention  of  those  having 
land  suitable  for  the  purpose.  Seed-raising  may  be  con- 
ducted in  connection  with  farm-gardening  to  good  ad- 
vantage, or  carried  on  separately.  If,  perchance,  some  of 
my  readers  may  be  assisted,  by  means  of  the  instructions 
given,  to  establish  for  themselves  or  their  sons  a  business 
at  once  pleasant,  healthful,  and  lucrative,  the  object  of  this 
work  will  have  been  attained. 

In  preparing  the  book,  I  have  endeavored  to  give  plain, 
practical  directions,  in  minute  detail,  for  growing  vegeta- 
bles and  seeds,  and  have  aimed  to  avoid  all  superfluous 
matter,  which,  though  it  might  be  interesting  to  the  gen- 
eral reader,  Avould  be  of  no  practical  benefit  to  those' for 
whom  the  work  is  more  especially  designed.  I  have 
deemed  it  advisable  to  dispense  with  illustrations,  which  I 
admit  are  useful,  to  a  certain  extent,  in  giving  to  the  reader 
a  more  vivid  idea  of  the  form  and  general  appearance  of 
the  subject  under  consideration  ;  but  in  these  days  of  enter- 
prise, almost  every  seedsman's  catalogue,  as  well  as  the 
works  on  gardening  which  have  preceded  this,  and  the 


MARKET-GARDENING.  7 

agricultural  and  horticultural  journals,  contain  complete  il- 
lustrations of  all  leading  vegetables,  implements,  etc.  A 
repetition  of  them  here  would  only  increase  the  size  of  the 
volume  without  materially  adding  to  its  usefulness. 

In  giving  directions  for  sowing,  planting,  etc.,  the  dates 
are  for  the  latitude  of  New  York  City,  and  should  be  va- 
ried according  as  the  situation  is  north  or  south  of  that 
point. 

MARKET-GARDENING. 

This  term  as  generally  used  applies  to  the  growing  of 
vegetables  for  market  in  so-called  market-gardens.  These 
are  usually  tracts  of  land  lying  adjacent  to  the  larger 
cities,  and  comprise  from  five  to  fifteen  acres.  It  is  im- 
portant that  the  market-gardener  should  be  near  to  market 
for  various  reasons.  His  crops  are  mostly  sold  in  the 
green  state ;  many  of  them,  being  forced  under  glass,  are 
consequently  of  a  very  perishable  nature  and  are  easily- 
damaged  by  rough  handling ;  hence  by  carting  to  market 
in  wagons,  and  being  handled  only  by  himself,  or  those  in 
his  immediate  employ,  his  produce  is  not  subjected  to  such 
severe  treatment  as  is  often  given  to  articles  of  freight  by 
railroad  or  steamboat  employes.  Moreover,  from  the  very 
perishable  nature  of  many  garden  vegetables,  they  can  not 
be  long  packed  in  bulk  without  heating,  hence  the  quicker 
they  are  sold  and  consumed  after  gathering  the  better. 

Another  very  important  point  is  the  facility  for  obtain- 
ing manure  from  the  stables  in  the  city,  which  by  their 
system  of  planting  must  be  used  in  immense  quantities. 
There  may  be  some  readers  of  this  book  who,  having 
land  near  large  villages,  where  there  is  generally  a  good 
market,  may  desire  to  pay  some  attention  to  this  business. 
To  such  I  would  say,  the  manner  of  sowing,  cultivating, 
etc.,  is  very  similar  to  the  directions  herein  given  for  the 
farm-garden. 


8  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

For  valuable  information  on  market-gardening  I  would 
respectfully  recommend  to  them  "  Gardening  for  Profit," 
a  practical  work,  giving  a  full  expose  of  the  system  of 
that  business  as  practised  about  New  York  City,  and 
written  by  Peter  Henderson,  one  of  the  most  successful 
gardeners  of  that  vicinity. 

FARM-GARDElSrma 

This  term  may  be  applied  to  the  growing  of  garden 
vegetables  more  remote  from  market.  The  farm-gardens 
of  the  present  day  are  not  very  far  distant  from  the  cities, 
and  in  them  are  grown  many  vegetables  which  are  found 
in  the  market-garden,  but  usually  the  main  crops  are  the 
coarser  articles  best  adapted  to  transportation,  and  such  as 
do  not  require  escessively  heavy  manuring.  As  I  re- 
marked in  the  Introduction,  the  time  must  come  when  the 
production  of  grain  and  all  farm  produce  must  be  left  to 
the  great  "West,  and  all  suitable  land  within  a  radius  of  at 
least  one  hundred  miles  of  our  present  commercial  centers 
will  be  occupied  as  farm-gardens  in  producing  vegetables 
for  the  millions  who  will  be  engaged  in  mercantile  and 
mechanical  pursuits  in  the  cities,  fast  spreading  over  the 
sections  now  used  for  the  purpose  of  gardening.  I  have 
no  desire  to  be  prophetic,  but  if  we  may  judge  of  the 
future  by  the  past,  this  view  would  seem  to  be  well  founded. 
This  work,  so  far  as  it  treats  on  the  growing  of  vegeta- 
bles, is  intended  principally  for  those  who  now  or  may  in 
the  future  have  land  distant  from  the  great  market 
centers  who  may  desire  to  change  their  business. 

While  I  have  scrupulously  avoided  in  every  case  writing 
anything  in  regard  to  the  possible  or  probable  amount  of 
money  to  be  realized  from  any  crop,  I  must  say  that  be- 
yond a  doubt  there  are  many  vegetable  crops  which  may 
be  grown  far  remote  from,  and  shipped  to  market,  that 
will  pay  much  greater  profits  than  ordinary  farm  produce. 


FARM-GARDENING.  9 

What  these  crops  shall  be  and  the  amount  to  be  realized 
from  them  can  only  be  determined  by  the  attending  circum- 
stances. The  class  of  men  above  alluded  to,  or,  in  other 
words,  those  who  are  now  engaged  in  farming — w^orking 
men — can  enter  upon  this  business  at  much  less  risk  than 
those  entirely  unskilled  in  tilling  the  soil.  They  can,  in 
connection  with  their  regular  business,  devote  an  acre  or 
two  to  growing  those  crops  the  management  of  which  is 
the  least  complicated.  The  additional  expense  will  be  for 
manure,  some  improved  tools,  and  a  little  extra  labor. 
By  keeping  strict  account  of  expenses  and  receipts,  they 
can  calculate  nearly  the  probable  amount  of  money  return 
from  each  crop. 

I  would  here  call  attention  to  the  fact  that  a  trial  of 
three  or  four  years  will  be  necessary  to  fully  determine 
this  matter,  because  the  land  at  the  start  can  hardly  be 
brought  to  the  condition  necessary  to  produce  the  best  re- 
sults, which  can  only  be  brought  about  by  thorough 
working  and  manuring.  It  also  may  occur  that  at  one 
season  the  price  of  any  particular  article  may  be  very  low, 
and  the  next  exactly  the  reverse  may  be  the  case,  so  that 
one  year's  results  must  be  averaged  with  the  other.  If 
these  experiments  prove  satisfactory,  the  area  devoted  to 
the  culture  may  be  increased,  and  other  crops,  such  as  re- 
quire the  use  of  hot-beds  and  cold-frames,  may  be  added. 

Those  who  have  sons  growing  up  can  assist  them  in 
this  way  to  acquire  a  knowledge  of  this  kind  of  farming, 
and  as  a  rule,  those  who  have  grown  up  with  the  business 
are  the  most  successful  followers  of  it.  In  most  cases,  in 
farm-gardening,  one  half  the  quantity  of  manure  used  by 
market-gardeners  will  be  sufficient  to  produce  the  crop, 
especially  on  new  land  that  is  naturally  fertile,  and  where 
land  is  abundant  it  will  be  advisable  to  select  a  fresh 
piece  occasionally — one  that  has  lain  for  some  time  in 
grass — and  seed  down  an  equivalent  amount  of  the  old 
land.  There  are  many  crops  which  may  be  grown  for 
1* 


10  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

an  indefinite  number  of  years  on  the  same  land,  but  as  a 
rule,  alternating  or  changing  crops  occasionally  is  advis- 
able. It  will  be  well  to  plant  the  new  ground,  for  one  or 
two  years,  with  such  crops  as  can  be  worked  by  plow  and 
cultivator,  the  better  to  subdue  it  and  prepare  it  for  those 
which  require  hand  cultivation. 

Never  sow  nor  plant  more  ground  than  can  be  posi- 
tively sure  to  receive  proper  and  timely  attention,  and 
bear  in  mind  that  to  the  gardener  there  is  no  season  of 
rest ;  wet  or  dry,  hot  or  cold,  there  will  always  be  some- 
thing to  do,  which  must  be  done  in  its  proper  time  to  in- 
sure success. 

SEED-GROWING. 

This  business  is  an  extended  branch  of  vegetable- 
growing,  for  the  operations  of  growing  the  crop  from 
which  to  produce  the  seed  are  the  same  as  when  raising 
it  for  market,  except,  perhaps,  in  many  instances  it  is 
not  essential  to  grow  the  stock  so  early,  and  in  some  cases, 
as  with  egg-plant,  unusual  attention  is  requisite  in  for- 
warding the  plants,  to  get  a  season  long  enough  in  which 
to  mati:ft'e  the  seeds.  The  business  of  seed-growing,  like 
farm  gardening,  can  only  be  acquired  by  practice,  and 
should  not  be  entered  upon  very  largely  at  the  start.  In 
addition  to  lack  of  experience,  another  serious  drawback 
to  the  beginner  in  seed-growing,  is  the  difficulty  in  pro- 
curing a  market  for  the  seeds  when  grown. 

The  seedsmen  of  the  present  day  vie  with  each  other  in 
procuring  and  selling  the  most  reliable  seeds,  for  they 
understand  full  well  the  importance  to  the  gardener  of 
having  only  such  as  are  fresh  and  pure,  for  should  he  sow 
any  other  his  labor  will  have  been  in  vain.  I  must  here 
call  the  attention  of  those  who  contemplate  farm-garden- 
ing or  seed-growing,  to  the  vast  importance  of  obtaining 
and  sowing  only  fresh  and  pure  seeds ;  for  should  they  fail 


SOIL    AND   PREPARATION.  11 

to  germinate,  the  ground  will  be  lost  for  that  crop  at 
least,  and  when  the  stock  is  impure  the  case  will  be  still 
more  serious.  » For  instance,  if  cabbage,  lettuce,  or  any 
crop  of  this  kind,  upon  which  much  labor  has  been  ex- 
pended, proves  other  than  what  it  should  be,  the  result 
must  be  damaging,  if  not  ruinous.  In  view  of  these 
facts,  seedsmen  are  very  particular  to  buy  only  from 
known  and  responsible  growers  ;  hence,  the  new  beginner 
must  aim  to  establish  a  reputation  for  responsibility.  In 
seed-growing,  great  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  far  apart 
such  as  will  mix  by  the  blossom,  and  it  is  advisable  not  to 
grow  seeds  in  many  varieties  of  any  one  class  of  vege- 
table. It  is  further  of  great  importance  always  to  save 
"  stock  seed  "  from  the  very  best  of  whatever  kind,  and 
in  saving  the  main  crop  to  select  only  perfect  specimens. 

In  describing  the  varieties  of  the  different  kinds  of 
vegetables,  I  have  noticed  only  such  as  are  the  most 
popular  about  New  York,  and  the  descriptions  are  mainly 
to  aid  in  making  selections  for  seed.  For  a  complete  list 
of  varieties  and  descriptions  in  minute  detail  of  almost 
every  known  vegetable,  the  reader  is  referred  to  a  book 
entitled  "  Vegetables  of  America,"  by  Fearing  Burr,  Jr., 
the  most  complete  work  of  its  class  ever  published  in  this 
country. 

SOIL    AND    PREPARATION. 

The  soil  for  growing  vegetables  and  seeds  should  be  as 
near  as  possible  a  deep  loam ;  it  may  be  more  or  less 
sandy,  but  avoid  clay,  or  anything  heavier  than  a  clay 
loam.  It  should  have  a  free  but  not  too  porous  subsoil, 
and  if  not  dry,  should  be  made  so  by  draining.  Here  I 
would  say,  if  possible,  select  a  soil  that  is  naturally  dry, 
or,  in  other  words,  that  which  will  not  retain  the  surface 
water. 

It  is  quite  as  important  that  the  subsoil  be  such  as  to 


12  FAEM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

allow  the  moisture  to  ascend  in  dry  weather,  as  to  descend 
in  wet  weather,  and  while  draining  may  assist  the  latter, 
it  can  never  fully  accomplish  the  former;  hence,  the  pre- 
ference for  natural  to  made  land.  The  preparations 
should  be  made,  so  far  as  possible,  in  the  fall.  The 
ground  should  be  plowed,  thoroughly  harrowed,  and 
smoothed  oiF  with  the  back  of  the  harrow,  where  early 
planting  is  to  be  done,  as  the  water  passes  away  easier 
from  an  even  surface,  and  the  soil  is  sooner  dry  in  the 
spring,  but  such  land  as  is  intended  for  later  crops  may 
be  left  without  harrowing.  Fallow  ground  should  be 
taken  for  sowing  seeds  on,  but  sward  land  may  be  used 
for  such  crops  as  are  to  be  worked  with  the  cultivator, 
provided  it  can  be  plowed  in  August,  and  again  plowed 
and  thoroughly  harrowed  late  in  the  fall.  Land  lying 
nearly  level  with  a  southern  aspect  is  to  be  preferred. 
The  beds  may  be  laid  out  of  any  size,  but  should  not  be 
short,  or  too  much  time  will  be  consumed  in  turning 
while  plowing.  A  convenient  size  is  ten  yards  wide  and 
one  hundred  and  twenty  yards  long,  containing  very 
nearly  one  quarter  of  an  acre.  A  narrow  headland  should 
be  left  at  each  end,  for  driving  on  and  for  turning  when 
plowing.  If  pains  are  taken  to  lay  out  the  lands  straight 
in  the  start,  they  may  always  be  kept  so  with  very  little 
trouble. 

MANURES    AND    MANURING. 

Without  fertilizers  to  enrich  the  soil,  alj  attempts  to 
grow  vegetables  or  seeds  will  be  in  vain ;  in  fact,  liberal 
manuring  and  careful  attention  to  growing  crops  are  the 
two  most  essential  points  in  the  business. 

Stable  manure  has  always  been  conddered  the  best,  and 
is  now  the  standard  fertilizer  with  market-gardeners,  al- 
though others  are  .used  to  some  extent.  Farmers  who 
have  been  in  the  habit  of  using  from  ten  to  twenty  loads 


MANURES    AND    MANURING.  13 

of  coarse  barn-yard  manure  to  the  acre,  will  be  astonished 
when  told  that  market-gardenei-s  use  four  .times  the  last- 
named  amount,  or  more,  of  well-rotted  stable  manure, 
every  year. 

In  fact,  they  put  on  as  much  as  can  be  conveniently  turned 
under,  with  the  assistance  of  two  men,  following  the 
plow  and  scraping  it  into  the  furrows.  Of  concentrated 
manures  they  apply  more  than  double  the  quantity  used 
for  farm  crops;  of  bone-dust  one  ton,  Peruvian  guano  one 
half  a  ton  to  the  acre,  and  so  on. 

This  heavy  manuring  is  necessary,  as  they  plant  very 
close,  raise  two  crops  a  year,  and  take  an  immense  amount 
of  produce  from  the  land. 

In  farm-gardening  or  seed-growing,  where  the  crop  is 
generally  planted  wide,  and  there  is  an  abundance  of  land 
to  allow  of  a  portion  being  seeded  down  at  times  and  al- 
lowed to  rest,  one  half  the  above-named  quantities  of 
manure  will  suffice. 

It  is  always  advisable  to  use  stable  manure  mainly^ 
when  it  can  be  obtained,  and  in  following  the  directions 
herein  given  for  manuring  the  various  crops,  bear  in  mind 
that  I  always  have  reference  to  such  as  is  obtained  from 
cities,  when  speaking  of  stable-manure.  This  is  nearly 
free  from  straw,  and,  load  for  load,  is  worth  double  such 
as  is  usually  made  in  barn-yards,  and  composed  largely  of 
straw,  stalks,  etc.  This  city  manure  is  bulky,  and  when 
freighted  by  railroad,  as  it  is  to  a  great  extent  on  Long 
Island,  the  first  cost  is  high,  but  I  am  fully  satisfied  that, 
to  a  certain  extent,  it  is  the  cheapest  in  the  end. 

Next  to  this,  pure  ground  bone,  when  applied  in  proper 
quantity,  is  preferable.  This  is  very  rich  in  fertilizing 
properties,  and  may  be  used  on  alternate  years  with  stable 
manure  to  good  advantage. 

The  soil  for  vegetable-growing  requires  to  be  mealy 
and  free  from  lumps,  and  it  can  be  kept  so  by  means  of 
the  decaying  vegetable  matter  contained  in  stable-manure. 


14  FAKM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-(i ROWING. 

But  SO  far  as  fertilizing  properties  go,  I  am  not  sure  but 
pure  fine  bone  is  mucli  cheaper  than  coarse  manure.  In 
sections  ^hereprime  stable-manure  can  not  be  obtained,  I 
would  advise  liberal  applications  of  bone  in  connection 
with  green  crops  plowed  under ;  the  fornjier  as  a  fertilizer, 
and  the  latter  to  keep  the  soil  in  good  working  condition. 
Ground  bone  is  now  made  of  various  grades,  generally" 
designated  as  bone-dust,  bone-meal,  and  bone-flour.  The 
former  is  the  best  for  permanent  crops,  such  as  asparagus, 
rhubarb,  etc.,  and  for  seeding  down  to  grass  for  renewing 
the  land ;  the  second  is  suited  to  crops  sown  in  the  fall, 
such  as  spinach,  etc.,  but  in  either  case,  unless  the  ground 
is  suflSciently  rich  to  give  the  plants  a  start,  bone-flour  or 
guano  must  be  used,  in  connection  with  the  bone  dust  or 
meal.  Bone-flour  is  very  fine,  and  acts  quickly,  nearly  as 
much  so  as  guano,  and  hence  is  preferable  for  crops  which 
mature  the  same  season  they  are  sown  or  planted.  There 
is  much  adulterated  bone  sold  at  the  present  day,  and 
those  who  have  used  this  kind  have  become  discouraged, 
and  say  that  bone  is  of  no  value. 

There  are,  however,  some  conscientious  men  engaged  in 
this  business,  and  among  them  are  Lister  Brothers,  of 
Newark,  N.  J.  It  may  seem  out  of  place  here  to  insert 
anything  that  may  seem  like  an  advertisement,  but  as  I 
always  use  the  bone  ground  by  the  above  firm,  and  from 
a  long  and  intimate  acquaintance  with  them,  and  frequent 
visits  to  their  factory  while  I  resided  near  it,  I  can  recom- 
mend their  productions  as  pure  and  reliable,  and  I  deem 
it  just  to  the  patrons  of  this  work  to  inform  them  where 
they  can  obtain  a  pure  article  in  this  line.  There  is  one 
thing  about  bone  which  many  do  not  seem  to  compre- 
hend. Let  it  be  never  so  fine  it  does  not  impart  cdl  its 
fertilizing  properties  at  once,  hence  liberal  applications 
must  be  made,  and  the  most  soluble  parts  will  act  on  the 
present  crop,  while  the  balance  will  benefit  the  future 
ones. 


MA]S^UKE3    AND    MAXITKING.  15 

Peruvian  guano  is  a  f>owerful  fertilizer,  but  requires  to 
be  evenly  distributed  to  prevent  the  growing  plants  from 
coniing  in  contact  with  any  considerable  portion  of  it,  as 
it  is  apt  to  be  injurious  to  the  young  roots  when  they  are 
brought  in  sudden  contact  with  it. 

Fish  are  used  largely  for  manure  at  the  eastern  part  of 
Long  Island  and  along  the  coast  generally,  and  make  a 
valuable  fertilizer.  An  excellent  compost  can  be  made 
by  mixing  muck  and  fish,  one  small  load  of  the  former 
to  one  thousand  of  the  latter,  and  afterwards  working  the 
whole  over  with  an  equal  bulk  of  stable  manure.  "  Fish 
guano,"  that  is,  the  "  scraps,"  flesh,  and  bones  of  fish 
from  which  the  oil  has  been  extracted,  is  also  a  valuable 
fertilizer.  Wood-ashes  possess  valuable  fertilizing  proper- 
ties, and  are  very  beneficial  in  preventing  the  ravages  of 
worms  which  attack  plants  at  the  roots.  Tl.ere  are  few 
or  none  of  the  many  compound  manures  which  j^ossess 
any  real  value  for  gardening  purposes. 

Green  manures  possess  great  fertilizing  and  renovating 
properties,  and  there  is  notling  better  for  land  than  a 
crop  of  clover  plowed  under.  Buckwheat,  corn,  oats, 
etc.,  etc.,  maybe  used  for  this  purpose  to  advantage,  but 
clover  is  far  the  best,  as  the  foliage  not  only  enriches,  but 
the  roots  permeate  and  loosen  the  soiL 

It  is  always  preferable  to  apply  manures  of  whatever 
kind  broadcast,  but  Avhen  this  is  not  ^Dracticable,  and 
"  manuring  in  the  hills "  has  to  be  resorted  to,  if 
stable  manure  is  used,  let  it  be  well  rotted,  and  when  ap- 
plied, thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil,  the  better  to  retain 
moisture. 

A  mixture  of  fish  or  fish  scrap,  muck,  and  rotted  manure, 
makes  an  excellent  compost  for  manuring  in  the  hill.  The 
term  "  hill"  as  herein  used  should  not  be  deemed  to  im- 
ply that  the  ground  must  be  raised,  which  would  be  in- 
jurious, except  in  case  of  sweet-potatoes,  watermelons, 
and  such  plants  as  require   a  very  diy  soil.     The  term  is 


a:. 


IG  FAIIM-GAEDEXING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

a  very  common  one,  and  serves  to  distinguish  between 
manuring  broadcast,  or  at  specified  distances.  Some 
spread  the  manure  broadcast  over  the  land  in  the  fall 
and  winter ;  this  plan,  however,  is  practised  mainly  by 
farmers,  and  is  seldom  resorted  to  by  gardeners,  who  pre- 
fer to  cart  out  the  manure  the  latter  part  of  winter,  place 
it  in  large  heaps  near  the  point  where  it  is  to  be  used,  and 
cart  on  the  land  and  spread  it,  immediately  before 
plowing. 

SOWING     SEEDS. 

The  proper  distribution  of  seed  in  sowing  is  quite  im- 
portant, and  there  are  few  who  can  do  it-  just  right. 
Happily,  machines  have  been  invented  for  the  purpose, 
and  many  of  them  do  the  work  more  evenly  than  it  can 
possibly  be  done  by  hand.  Some  seeds,  from  their  peculiar 
formation,  have  to  be  sown  by  hand.  It  is  a  very  difficult 
matter  to  give  directions  for  sowing  seeds,  and  to  say 
how  much  is  required  to  the  acre.  Much  depends  upon 
the  season,  and  also  upon  the  freshness  of  the  seed,  and 
even  seed  known  to  be  new  may  be  partly  deficient  in 
germinating  properties. 

The  best  rule  is,  when  sowing  in  rows,  to  be  governed 
by  the  character  of  the  seed  and  relative  strength  of  the 
young  plants — f«r  instance,  carrot,  parsnip,  and  some 
others  have  light  seed,  and  the  young  plants  are  feeble. 
Such  should  be  sown  thickly,  and  afterward  be  thinned 
out,  as  directed  under  each  separate  head. 

Others — plants  such  as  cucumbers,  melons,  etc. — are 
liable  to  be  attacked  by  bugs,  and  it  is  well  to  make 
some  allowance  on  this  account.  Most  heavy  seeds  can 
be  sown  thin,  especially  if  broadcast,  the  chances  being 
that  they  will  be  too  thick,  especially  if  sown  by  inexpe- 
rienced hands.  Take,  for  instance,  the  seed  of  flat  tur- 
nip,   one  pound  of  which,  in  measure    but    little    more 


TKAKSPLAJfTING.  17 

than  a  pint,  "will  sow  an  acre  of  land,  but  it  requires  a 
very  nice  calculation  to  get  the  seed  evenly  distributed 
and  make  such  a  small  quantity  cover  so  much  ground. 

Seeds  sown  by  machine  may  be  regulated  by  sowing 
first  on  a  cloth  or  floor,  and  setting  the  gauge  to  the 
proper  grade.  Some  seeds  are  variable  in  size ;  such 
should  be  divided  by  sifting,  and,  if  sown  by  machine, 
put  in  separately.  It  is  advisable,  if  possible,  to  always 
sow  as  soon  as  the  ground  is  prepared,  while  the  surface 
soil  is  still  fresh  and  moist,  and  when  covered  by  raking, 
always  draw  the  rake  lengthwise  with  the  rows.  Very 
fine  seed  must  not  be  covered  too  deep.  Directions  on 
this  point  are  given  under  each  separate  head. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

This  is  a  very  important  operation,  and  but  few  under- 
stand it  properly.  As  a  rule,  a  plant  wheij  set  out  should 
be  so  firmly  fastened  that  upon  taking  the  point  of  a  leaf 
between  the  thumb  and  forefinger  it  will  break  away  be- 
fore the  plant  can  be  pulled  out.  Even  this  test  may  be 
withstood  and  the  plant  still  die,  from  the  fact  that  it  is 
improperly  planted.  It  is  often  the  case  that  a  mass  of 
earth  is  pressed  against  the  stalk  at  the  surface,  while  the 
root  is  left  so  loose  that  it  can  not  get  established  at  once, 
and  the  plant  dies,  or  lingers  along  until  perchance  there 
comes  a  rain  to  wash  the  earth  about  the  root,  when  it 
starts  feebly,  and  at  maturity  can  not  be  what  it  might 
have  been  had  not  its  growth  been  materially  checked  at 
the  start.  With  the  dibble  make  a  hole  larger  than  the 
root,  that  the  fibers  may  be  in  a  natural  position ;  put  in 
the  plant  to  the  first  leaves,  or  as  deep  as  possible  without 
covering  the  heart.  Holding  the  plant  with  the  left  hand, 
pass  the  point  of  the  dibble  down,  close  to  the  plant^  car- 
rying with  it  a  little  soil,  which  press  firmly  against  the 
root^  and  knock  loose  soil  into  the  hole  left  by  the  dibble. 


18  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

Soil  pressed  against  the  stalk  near  the  surface  has  a 
tendency  to  prevent  the  earth  from  washing  down  and 
settling  about  the  root,  and  can  not  possibly  be  of  any  use. 

The  operation  of  transplanting  should  always  be  done, 
if  in  spring  or  autumn,  while  the  earth  is  fresh,  as  plant- 
ing in  dry  soil  is  very  tedious,  the  holes  filling  as  fast  as 
made.  For  summer  transplanting  it  is  best  to  prepare 
and  mark  out  the  land  in  good  season.  When  the  rain 
comes,  be  ready  to  go  at  it  while  the  soil  is  in  condition, 
and  unless  the  amount  of  rain  is  such  as  to  make  the 
earth  thin  mud,  do  not  stop,  for  there  may  not  soon  be 
another  chance.  It  sometimes  may  occur  that  tlie  sum- 
mer rains  may  not  be  sufficient  to  thoroughly  saturate  the 
soil  and  insure  growth  of  the  plants.  In  this  case  "  pud- 
dling "  must  be  resorted  to.  Near  the  plant-bed  make  a 
hole  about  one  foot  diameter,  and  six  or  eight  inches 
deep ;  into  this  pour  water,  and  with  a  hoe  mix  to  the 
consistency  of  paste  or  thin  mud,  which  will  adhere  to 
the  roots.  Let  the  plants  be  held  evenly  in  the  hands, 
and  the  roots  passed  a  few  times  through  the  mud  as  each 
handful  is  pulled.  Lay  them  in  baskets,  protect  from 
the  sun  and  air  as  much  as  possible,  and  have  them  trans- 
planted very  soon  after  they  are  pulled. 

In  taking  up  plants  from  the  cold-frame,  use  a  spade  to 
raise  them,  thus  securing  whole  roots  with  considerable 
earth  attached.  Plants  in  hot-beds,  should  be  saturated 
well  with  water  before  pulling,  to  accomplish  the  same 
object. 

The  work  of  transplanting  may  be  greatly  facilitated 
by  adopting  a  regular  system  of  operations.  Let  one 
man  attend  to  pulling  the  plants  after  enough  have  been 
drawn  for  a  start.  Have  an  active  boy  for  each  man  to 
carry  and  drop  the  plants.  If  desirable  to  have  the 
plants  at  even  distances  in  the  rows,  mark  the  same  on  a 
pole,  and  by  it  plant  the  middle  one  of  every  seven  or 
nine  rows,  which  answers  as  a  guide  for  the  boys,  who 


INSECTS.  19 

can  drop  the  plants  on  the  other  rows,  either 
side,  directly  opposite.  The  top  of  the  plant  should  be 
laid  to  the  left  hand  of  the  planters,  to  be  the  more  readily- 
taken  up  for  depositing  in  the  hole,  which,  by  the  way, 
should  be  made  with  a  dibble  in  the  right  hand  while  the 
plant  is  being  picked  up  with  the  left. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  drop  out  plants  of  celery,  leek, 
etc.,  which  are  set  close  in  the  rows,  but  here  time  may 
be  saved  by  having  one  person  to  carry  the  plants  in  a 
basket,  and  hand  them  out  as  wanted  by  the  planters. 
Should  watering  have  to  be  resorted  to,  lot  it  be  done 
while  there  is  no  sun  on  the  plants,  as  this  would  scorch 
the  leaves,  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  be  apt  to  bake.  The 
best  time  for  watering  is  after  sundown,  or  at  least  late  in 
the  afternoon. 

In  transplanting  into  cold-frame  or  hot-bed,  let  the 
earth  be  freshly  dug  or  raked,  and  after  setting  the  plants, 
partially  shade  them  for  a  few  days,  but  do  not  wholly 
exclude  the  light.  Use  two  broad  boards  to  step  on  ;  the 
face  of  one  of  these  may  be  notched  out  at  the  distances 
required  between  the  plants,  when  regularity  is  desired. 

INSECTS. 

The  insects  which  annoy  the  gardener  and  damage  or 
destroy  his  crops  are  of  several  kinds. 

The  Striped  Bug  is  very  destructive  to  young  plants  of 
cucumber,  melon,  squash,  etc.  Tobacco-dust,  bone-flour, 
ashes,  soot,  etc.,  are  used  to  destroy  or  drive  them  away, 
but  I  have  never  found  anything  equal  to  shell-lime,  air^ 
slaked^  for  their  destruction. 

The  Cabbage  Flea,  a  small,  black  insect,  which  attacks 
young  plants  of  cabbage,  turnip,  etc.,  is  also  very  de- 
structive, but  easily  conquered  by  early  applications  of 
the  last-named  remedy  in  liberal  quantity. 

The  Cabbage  Louse  (I  use  the  common  names),  a  small, 


20  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

bluish  insect,  often  infests  crops  of  growing  cabbages. 
They  are  not  particularly  destructive  to  these,  but  when 
a  mass  of  them  collect  on  the  heads,  as  they  frequently 
do,  their  appearance  is  spoiled,  as  they  can  scarcely  be 
gotten  off  without  removing  all  the  outer  leaves,  and 
thus  damaging  the  sale.  These  pests,  though  not  very 
destructive  to  the  growing  cabbages,  are  very  much  so  to  ■ 
the  plant  when  producing  seed.  It  was  only  a  few  years 
ago  that  I  had  a  crop  of  seed  cabbages  entirely  destroyed 
by  them.  They  first  appear,  in  small  clusters,  at  the  tip 
of  the  branches  about  the  time  the  blossoms  are 
coming, 'and  if  not  immediately  attended  to,  soon  envelop 
the  leaves  and  stalks  to  their  total  destruction. 

They  are  generally  the  worst  in  dry  seasons,  and  some- 
times a  heavy  shower,  before  they  get  much  start,  will 
destroy  them.  I  do  not  know  of  any  positive  remedy ; 
lime  will  check  but  not  destroy  them.  As  soon  as  they 
appear  on  seed-cabbage,  the  tip  on  which  they  lodge  must 
be  nipped  off,  and  attention  must  be  paid  to  them  every 
day  until  the  stalks  and  pods  are  quite  hard. 

A  new  enemy  to  the  cabbage  family  has  lately  ap- 
jjcared  in  the  form  of  a  green  grub,  which  eats  away 
the  leaves,  and  in  some  sections  whole  fields  have  been 
destroyed.  There  is  no  positive  remedy  yet  found 
against  them,  though  many  have  been  tried,  with  varying 
success.  They  are  not  yet  common  in  this  section,  hence 
I  have  not  had  occasion  to  experiment  with  them. 

Another  very  injurious  insect  is  the  one  which  produces 
what  is  known  as  "  club-root "  in  cabbages,  cauliflower, 
etc.  Various  theories  have  been  advanced  as  the  cause 
of  this  malformation,  but  it  is,  beyond  a  doubt,  caused 
by  a  maggot  which  eats  into  the  root,  causing  it  to  swell 
in  various  shapes,  and  destroying  the  plant.  I  have  no 
doubt  that  the  eggs  are  deposited  in  the  manure,  and  so 
taken  to  the  field ;  the  maggot  there  hatches,  and  at  once 
commences  the  work  of  destruction.     My  conclusions  in 


INSECTS.  21 

this  matter  have  been  arrived  at  from  observations  made 
on  three  different  crops  of  radishes,  and  here,  to  be  the 
better  understood,  I  Avill  say  I  believe  the  Cabbage  Mag- 
got and  the  Radish  Maggot  to  be  one  and  the  same. 

A  few  years  ago  I  sowed  three  j^ieces  of  land  with  the 
White  Summer  Radish,  one  on  land  manured  with  stable 
manure  at  the  time  of  sowing,  the  next  without  manure, 
where  a  liberal  application  had  been  made  the  previous 
year,  and  the  other  without  manure,  but  on  one  end  of 
the  land  a  heap  of  stable-manure  had  lain  during  the 
winter,  and  was  removed  to  adjacent  land  for  an  early 
crop.  The  radishes  on  the  first  piece  were  mostly  mag- 
got-eaten ;  those  on  the  second  were  not  affected  in  the 
least,  nor  yet  were  those  on  the  third  bed,  except  where  the 
manure  heap  had  been.  The  theory  that  hog-manure 
will  produce  club-root  is  not  entirely  unfounded;  for, 
while  it  may  not  be  the  immediate  cause,  yet  no  doubt, 
from  its  nature,  it  is  the  most  attractive  to  the  fly  in  seek- 
ing a  place  to  deposit  her  eggs,  and  by  it  more  are  carried 
to  the  ground  than  in  horse  or  cow  manure.  I  firmly 
believe  that  much  depends  on  the  previous  treatment  of 
manure,  such  as  heating,  turnmg,  etc.  (by  which  the  eggs 
may  be  destroyed),  for  the  prevention  of  club-root. 

Shell-lime  is  an  effectual  preventive,  and  about  Newark, 
N.  J.,  market-gardeners  apply  it  heavily  once  in  about 
five  years  with  good  results. 

Undoubtedly  the  maggots  are  killed  by  it  before  they 
can  begin  the  work  of  destruction.  Where  lime  can  not 
be  had  conveniently,  and  even  where  it  can,  I  advise  put- 
ting the  manure,  especially  that  intended  for  cabbages 
and  cauliflower,  into  a  large  heap,  letting  it  heat,  and 
occasionally  working  it  over  to  prevent  scorching. 

Henderson  advises  bone-flour  as  a  ren^edy  for  club-root. 
One  thing  is  certain,  if  my  view  is  correct ;  we  have  in 
this  valuable  fertilizer   the    best    substitute   for    stable- 


22  FAKM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

manure,  and  one  that  is  free  from  the  eggs  which  produce 
the  Cabbage  Maggot. 

COLD-FRAMES  OR  COLD-BEDS. 

These  are  constructed  of  common  plank,  usually  about 
twelve  inches  high  at  the  back,  and  eight  inches  at  the 
front;  in  width  according  to  the  length  of  the  sashes  to 
be  used,  and  in  length  to  suit  the  number  of  sashes  re- 
quired ;  the  planks  must  be  supported  by  durable  posts 
firmly  set  in  the  ground,  to  which  they  are  nailed.  They 
should  always  be  erected  in  a  sheltered  position,  facing 
southward,  if  possible,  and  on  ground  nearly  or  quite 
level,  or  j^erhaps  gently  sloping  to  the  south.  Some  use 
slides  upon  which  to  run  the  sashes  up  and  down  ;  these 
are  very  convenient.  They  are  placed  at  such  a  distance 
apart  that  the  edges  of  the  sashes  rest  on  the  slides,  and 
are  separated' by  a  narrow  strip,  thus  making  the  opera- 
tion of  airing  quite  easy.  The  slides  are  dovetailed  into 
the  plank ;  hence  they  are  held  firm,  and  yet  can  be 
readily  removed  when  occasion  may  require.  The  soil 
of  a  cold-bed  should  be  light,  dry,  and  free  from  stones, 
and  enriched  according  to  its  intended  use ;  for  if  designed 
only  as  a  place  in  which  to  preserve  plants  during  winter, 
moderate  fertility  is  all  that  is  required ;  but  if  used  for 
growing  and  forcing  crops  for  market,  it  must  be  made 
and  kept  rich  by  liberal  applications  of  fertilizers. 

The  soil  should  be  spaded  deep  and  finely  pulverized 
twice  before  planting,  adding  well-rotted  stable-manure 
and  bone-flour,  which  should  be  thoroughly  worked  into 
the  soil  in  quantity  according  to  the  intended  use  of  the 
bed,  the  surface  finely  raked,  and  the  front  slightly  raised. 
This  is  from  the  fact  that  the  sashes  inclming  to  the  front 
carry  the  water  that  way,  more  or  less  leakage  taking 
place,  beside  the  lower  board  shading  inside  of  the  frame 
renders  the  lower  part  wet  and  cold,  and  a  httle  elevation 


COLD-FRAMES    OR    COLD-BEDS.  23 

of  soil  here  has  a  good  effect.  Cabbage,  cauliflower,  and 
lettuce  plants  are  preserved  in  cold-beds,  which  renders 
them  hardy  and  capable  of  being  transplanted  very  early 
in  the  spring,  and  to  be  harvested  in  time  to  allow  a  sec- 
ond crop  to  be  grown  on  the  same  ground. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown  about  the  middle  of  Septem- 
ber, and  to  make  a  sure  thing  it  is  best  to  sow  on  the 
tenth  and  again  on  the  twentieth  of  the  month,  each 
time  using  more  seed  than  sufficient  to  produce  the  re- 
quisite number  of  plants.  I  might  here  add  that  cabbage 
and  cauliflower  seed  will  give  about  three  thousand  and 
lettuce-seed  six  thousand  plants  to  an  ounce. 

Select  a  piece  of  good  soil;  plow  or  spade  to  a  depth 
of  eight  inches ;  make  the  surface  fine  and  even  by  thor- 
ough raking ;  spread  the  seed  thin  over  the  entire  surface, 
and  cover  by  raking  in  or  sprinkling  fine  soil  over  the 
whole  to  a  depth  of  one  half  an  inch,  slightly  pressing 
with  the  back  of  the  spade,  and  if  the  earth  is  dry 
sprinkle  with  water  in  the  evening.  As  soon  as  the 
plants  have  formed  the  second  leaves,  or  become  large 
enough  to  handle  conveniently,  they  should  be  trans- 
planted into  the  cold-frame,  tlie  soil  being  prepared  as 
above  directed,  and  it  will  be  found  advisable  to  prepare 
the  bed  just  immediately  preceding  the  transplanting, 
the  soil  then  possessing  a  natural  moisture,  which  is  a 
condition  far  preferable  to  that  presented  when  the  sur- 
face has  become  dry,  and  one  which  can  not  be  obtained 
by  artificial  watering. 

It  is  very  important  here,  as  in  all  transplanting,  that 
the  earth  be  firmly  pressed  against  the  root.  Cabbage 
and  cauliflower  must  be  set  down  to  the  first  leaves,  or 
as  deep  as  possible  without  covering  the  hearts.  By  doing 
this,  the  stalk  is  more  thoroughly  protected,  and  in  case 
the  plants  become  severely  frozen,  the  frost  will  draw  out 
through  the  earth,  and  they  will  not  be  injured  as  when 
exposed  directly  to  the  sun  and  air. 


24  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

Lettuce,  however,  must  not  be  planted  very  deep  ;  if  the 
whole  of  the  root  be  covered,  it  will  be  quite  sufficient. 

The  plants  may  be  shaded  for  a  day  or  two,  and  if  the 
earth  is  dry  a  light  sprinkling  of  water  may  be  given,  but 
this  will  not  be  necessary  if  the  earth  is  fresh  and 
has  been  pressed  firmly  to  the  roots.  The  plants  may  be 
set  two  and  a  half  by  two  inches  apart ;  but  they  will  be 
stronger  and  better  by  setting  three  inches  each  way,  ex- 
cept lettuce,  which  will  have  ample  room  at  the  distance 
first  named.  They  should  remain  exposed  until  the  ap- 
proach of  severe  weather,  when  the  sashes  must  be  put  on, 
and  during  very  severe  frosts  beds  of  cauliflower  may  be 
further  protected  at  night  by  mats,  old  carpet,  or  the  like 
thrown  over  the  sashes.  Ahvavs  bear  i-n  mind  that  these 
plants  are  placed  in  the  cold-frame  for  preservation,  and 
not  to  make  growth ;  hence,  after  they  have  become 
rooted,  the  bed  must  be  kept  rather  dry  than  otherwise, 
and  the  most  important  point  of  all  is,  to  give  an  abun- 
dance of  air.  Whenever  the  thermometer,  in  the  shade 
on  a  still  day,  shows  ten  degrees,  the  sashes  may  be  pushed 
down  one  or  two  inches  from  the  top;  at  twenty  degrees, 
they  may  be  pushed  down  nearly  half-way,  and  at  thirty 
degrees  they  can  be  drawn  entirely  off.  Where  slides  are 
not  used  the  sashes  may  be  raised  by  means  of  wedges 
placed  under  the  upper  end  to  correspond  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible with  the  above. 

These  plants  are  almost  hardy  in  the  open  ground,  and 
as  the  glass  over  them  concentrates  the  sun's  rays  and 
heats  the  air  in  the  bed,  great  care  must  be  taken  lest 
the  plants  become  drawn  thereby.  There  is  much 
greater  danger  of  keeping  them  too  warm  than  too  cold. 

Especially  is  it  very  important  that  they  should  be  ex- 
posed for  a  fortnight  before  setting  in  the  open  ground, 
and  if  they  have  been  kept  cool  and  not  drawn,  the  frames 
may  be  left  open  during  frosty  nights  to  harden  the  plants, 
guarding  against  snow,  which  would  be  liable  to  destroy 


HOT-BEDS.  25 

some  of  the  plants  by  breaking  the  hearts.  To  guard 
against  the  possibility  of  this,  where  sashes  are  removed 
to  use  on  other  frames,  it  is  well  to  have  at  hand 
a  supply  of  shutters,  of  the  same  size  as  the  sashes. 

Cold-frames  are  extensively  used  about  New- York  City 
for  forcing  lettuce,  cucumbers,  and  parsley,  and  may  be 
used  to  advantage  for  producing  cabbage,  cauliflower,  let- 
tuce, and  celery  plants  early  in  the  spring,  sweet-potato 
plants  later,  herbs  for  transplanting,  forcing  beets,  carrots, 
and  radishes,  forwarding  cucumbers,  melons,  squashes,  and 
lima  beans  for  transplanting  to  the  open  ground,  and  har- 
dening off  tomato,  pepper,  and  other  plants,  all  of  which 
are  duly  noticed  under  their  respective  heads. 

HOT-BEDS. 

These  differ  from  cold-frames  mainly  in  being  mostly 
composed  of  partly  fermented  stable-manure,  which  gives 
off  great  heat,  and  when  properly  worked  and  compactly 
formed  continues  to  do  so  for  a  long  time,  and  this,  with 
the  assistance  of  the  sun,  the  heat  of  which  is  concentrated 
by  the  glass  of  the  sashes,  enables  us  to  force  or  hasten  the 
growth  of  many  vegetables  much  in  advance  of  the  natural 
seasons,  and  further  aids  us  in  growing  such  vegetables  as 
are  natives  of  a  tropical  climate,  by  forwarding  the  plants, 
and  which  on  account  of  the  sliortness  of  our  seasons  could 
not  be  successfully  grown,  if  the  sowing  of  the  seeds  of 
such  was  delayed  until  the  earth  had  become  sufficiently 
warmed  to  allow  them  to  germinate. 

There  are  various  ways  of  making  a  hot-bed,  but  I  will 
only  describe  the  two  leading  methods.  A  stationary  hot- 
bed is  made  by  digging  a  pit  about  two  and  a  half  feet 
deep,  boarding  up  the  sides  and  ends  to  about  one  foot 
above  ground  on  the  back  and  three  inches  on  the  front, 
in  width  and  lenorth  accordinsT  to  the  size  and  number  of 
the  sashes  to  be  used,  and  furnished  with  slides,  as  in  the 
2 


26  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

cold-frame,  to  assist  in  giving  air,  etc.  Into  this  pit  place 
one  foot  of  leaves  or  coarse  litter,  and  manure  to  a  depth 
of  one  and  a  half  foot,  whicli  must  he  trodden  down  rather 
firmly,  the  surface  made  even,  and  covered  with  from  three 
to  six  inches  of  soil,  as  the  case  may  require.  This  style  is 
best  suited  for  forcing  lettuce,  rhubarb,  asparagus,  dwarf 
cabbages,  and  such  vegetables;  but  I  much  prefer  for 
general  use  the  movable  hot-bed,  which  is  made  by  excar 
vating  one  and  a  half  foot  deep,  two  feet  wider  than  the 
frame  to  be  used,  and  two  feet  longer  than  will  accommo- 
date two  frames  of  four  sashes  each,  and  not  boarding  up. 
In  this  pit  place  one  foot  of  leaves  or  coarse  litter,  and  on 
that  one  foot  or  more  of  manure,  well  shaken  up,  but  do 
not  tread  it  down — the  only  pressure  necessary  being  a 
light  patting  with  the  back  of  the  fork  to  even  the  surface. 
Throw  two  planks  across  on  which  to  walk,  and  stepping 
on  them,  place  on  the  frames,  one  foot  from  either  end,  and 
leaving  one  foot  on  the  outside,  back  and  front ;  square  the 
frame  by  means  of  a  sash  ;  put  in  three  inches  of  soil,  fill- 
ing mostly  around  the  sides  and  ends,  to  assist  these  parts 
in  settling,  as  the  center  will  naturally  settle  first ;  put  on 
the  sashes,  bank  up  the  outside,  especially  on  the  north, 
with  coarse  manure.  Choose  a  mild  day  for  the  work, 
and  let  it  be  done  as  expeditiously  as  possible,  that  the 
manure  may  not  be  too  much  chilled. 

The  object  of  having  the  pit  wider  than  the  frame,  is  to 
allow  the  manure,  earth,  and  frame  to  settle  evenly  in  a 
body.  The  frames  can  be  made  from  ordinary  thirteen- 
foot  plank,  accommodating  four  sashes,  six  by  three  feet, 
with  sliders,  without  w- aste,  and  will  be  full  heavy  enough 
for  two  men  to  handle,  being  two  planks  on  the  back  and 
one  on  the  front,  braced  with  pieces  of  joist  in  the  corners 
and  center,  to  which  the  planks  are  nailed,  the  ends  being 
raised  the  thickness  of  the  sashes. 

The  sliders  can  be  dovetailed  in  the  same  as  the  cold- 
frame  and  the  frames  made  w^ithout  bottoms.     By  either 


FOECIXG-PIT.  27     , 

method,  when  the  bed  has  stood  three  days,  the  sashes  and 
sliders  should  be  removed,  the  soil  raked  even  and  fine,  and 
as  much  more  added  as  may  be  necessary,  which  will  depend 
on  the  crop  to  be  grown,  directions  for  which  are  given 
under  each  separate  head. 

It  is  very  important  to  have  good  manure,  and  to  have 
it  well  worked  over  before  using,  to  insure  success  in  mak- 
ing a  hot-bed.  Manure  as  it  comes  from  the  stables  is 
generally  too  coarse,  and  makes  too  rank  a  heat.  It  should 
be  thrown  in  a  heap,  and  when  heated,  which  may  be 
known  by  the  vapor  arising  from  it,  the  whole  must  be 
turned  and  forked  over,  and  this  sometimes  repeated  four 
or  five  dififerent  times,  but  usually  three  good  workings 
will  temper  it,  the  last  being  given  three  or  four  days  be- 
fore it  is  to  be  used.  The  manure  that  is  shipped  from 
New  York  City,  by  boat  and  railroad,  is  generally  in 
good  condition  for  making  a  hot-bed. 

The  soil  should  be  light,  free,  and  moderately  rich, 
though  I  have  found  that  which  has  long  been  used,  to 
have  a  tendency  to  cause  the  young  plants  to  damp  off, 
and  I  would  recommend  using  one  half  well-rotted  sods 
and  one  half  old  soil,  thoroughly  mixed. 

Select  a  sheltered,  warm  position  for  a  hot-bed,  and  one 
that  may  be  permanent,  as  the  same  pits  or  trenches  last 
from  year  to  year,  the  earth  and  manure  being  removed  to 
a  heap,  and  the  frames,  if  movable,  snugly  stored  away  to 
do  duty  again  the  following  and  many  successive  years. 


FORCING-PIT. 

This  is  an  arrangement  similar  to  the  stationary  hot- 
bed frame,  and  can  be  used  for  forwarding  rhubarb,  cauli- 
flower, cabbage,  etc.,  without  resorting  to  the  use  of  hot 
manure,  and  sometimes  a  frame  is  used,  the  same  as  a 
movable  hot-bed  frame,  but  built  one  plank  higher  back 


28  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

and   front.     Directions    for    using   are  given  under  the 
head  of  such  vegetables  as  are  grown  in  this  manner. 


TOOLS    AND    THEIR    USES. 

The  tools  required  in  gardening  and  seed-growing  are 
quite  numerous. 

Various  patterns  of  different  kinds  have  been  invented, 
some  improvements  on  the  old  style,  but  many  of  no  prac- 
tical value.  I  shall  avoid  as  much  as  possible  recommend- 
ing any  particular  pattern  of  either  tool  of  which  I  make 
mention,  but  leave  the  selection  to  the  judgment  of  those 
who  may  have  occasion  to  use  them ;  because  what  suits  one 
may  not  suit  another. 

Plow. — ^Use  a  plow  which  Avill  positively  invert,  that  is, 
completely  turn  over  the  soil.  Take  a  narrow  furrow,  and 
while  it  is  important  to  plow  deep,  yet  it  is  not  expedient 
to  do  so  until  the  land  is  made  comparatively  rich.  Plow 
five  or  six  inches  deep,  following  with  the  subsoil  plow  to  a 
dejith  of  six  inches  more.  At  the  next  plowing  run  the  sur- 
face plow  deeper,  and  so  continue  each  time  until  a  depth  of 
ten  inches  or  more  is  attained,  frequently  applying 
manure,  without  which  deep  plowing  is  injurious,  but  with 
it  vastly  beneficial. 

Subsoiling  may  be  done  frequently  with  good  results, 
and  the  depth  increased  gradually  to  eighteen  inches. 

Harrow. — The  most  suitable  harrow  is  made  square, 
about  five  and  a  half  feet  either  way,  with  four  cross- 
pieces,  which,  with  the  front  and  back,  each  contain  al- 
ternately eight  and  seven  teeth,  nine  inches  apart, 
set  diagonally,  so  as  to  cut  four  and  a  half  inches. 

The  teeth  should  be  made  of  one-inch  square  iron, 
pointed  and  hardened,  and  the  points  should  project  eight 
inches  and  the  heads  one  inch. 

The  ground  should  be  twice  gone  over,  then  reverse 


TOOLS    AND    THEIll    USES.  29 

the  harrow  and  "back  it."  This  will  generally  make  the 
surface  fine,  but  if  not,  go  onco  more  over  with  the  teeth 
and  again  with  the  back  of  the  harrow.  "When  the 
ground  is  in  fit  condition  to  work,  it  can  be  made  suffi- 
ciently fine  and  even  by  skillful  "back-harrowing,"  to 
admit  of  sowing  nearly  all  kinds  of  seeds,  but  occasion- 
ally to  get  a  bed  in  prime  order  the  surface  must  be  well 
raked. 

Cultivator. — The  "  harrow-tooth  "  cultivator  is  requisite 
in  garden  crops  while  the  plants  are  small. 

Afterward,  the  "broad-toothed"  or  any  of  the  im- 
proved styles  may  be  used,  always  going  twice  each  way. 

Always  bear  in  mind  that  the  "  cultivator  "  is  better  to 
prevent  than  to  destroy  weeds,  so  commence  early  and  re- 
peat often ;  never  wait  until  the  weeds  can  be  seen. 

Hoc. — The  operation  of  hoeing  is,  in  gardening,  a  very 
important  one. 

It  is  necessary  to  hoe  deep  to  loosen  the  soil ;  and 
thoroughly  pulverize  it  to  effectually  destroy  young 
weeds. 

A  steel-toothed  rake  may  be  used  in  the  manner  of  a 
hoe  to  advantage  in  disturbing  the  soil  before  the  weeds 
get  any  start,  which,  by  the  way,  should  never  be  allowed. 
The  "  pronged  hoe  "  is  effectual  in  loosening  the  soil  and 
preventing  ^  the  weeds  growing ;  taken  in  time,  more 
work  can  be  done  with  one  than  with  a  common  hoe  in  the 
same  time.  The  "  push  or  scuffle  hoe  "  is  very  useful  for 
loosening  the  surface  soil,  between  rows  of  small  plants 
before  the  other  hoes  can  be  used,  and  some  crops  can  be 
worked  almost  entirely  with  them.  They  are  also  useful 
in  cleaning  ground  for  a  second  crop.  Sizes  vary  from  four 
to  twelve  inches,  all  of  which  are  useful. 

Spade. — Spade  cultivation  is  no  longer  considered  the 
one  great  point  in  gardening.  Henderson  very  truthfully 
remarks,  "  No  digging  in  the  ordinary  way  can  pulverize 


30  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

the  soil  SO  thoroughly  as  can  bo  done  by  the  plow  and 
harrow,  nor  no  trenching  much  surpass  in  its  results 
that  done  by  thorough  subsoiling."  Still,  cold-beds  and 
small  pieces  of  ground  must  sometimes  be  dug,  and  it  is 
advisable  that  it  be  done  well.  Never  set  the  spade  far 
back ;  or,  in  other  words,  take  a  little  earth  at  one  time, 
invert  it,  and  pulverize  well  with  the  spade,  if  one  is  used, 
but  the  "  spading-fork  "  will  be  found  a  good  substitute, 
and  much  better  for  this  purpose. 

Rake. — ^The  ordinary  wooden  rake  contains  ten  teeth ; 
those  best  adapted  to  garden  use  have  fourteen.  In  cov- 
ering seed,  rake  lengthwise  with  the  rows,  taking  from 
two  to  four  rows  together,  breaking  lumps  with  the  back 
of  the  rake.  In  smoothing  the  surface  for  sowing,  rake  as 
much  as  possible  from  the  sides,  to  avoid  unnecessary 
treading  over  the  bed.  Steel  rakes  have  fine  sharp  teeth, 
and  are  very  useful  where  it  is  important  to  have  the  sur- 
face soil  extra  fine.  When  used  as  a  substitute  for  the 
hoe,  various  sizes  are  necessary  to  accommodate  the  width 
between  the  rows. 

Garden-Line. — This  is  very  essential  where  straight 
rows  are  desired,  and  such  certainly  always  should  be. 

Let  the  line  be  strong,  though  not  heavy,  as  long  as 
the  lands,  and  for  convenience  be  wound  on  a  reel,  and 
have  a  sharp-pointed  iron  at  each  end  for  fastening  into  the 
earth.  To  get  the  line  perfectly  straight,  set  the  pin  at 
one  end,  unreel  the  line,  draw  it  tiglit^  and  fasten  the  reel- 
pin  firmly  in  the  earth ;  return  to  the  center,  raise  the  line 
with  the  thumb  and  finger,  four  or  five  feet  from  the 
ground,  and  let  it  quickly  descend — using  the  line  in  fact 
in  the  same  manner  as  a  carpenter  uses  a  chalk-line. 

Markers. — These  are  indispensable  in  marking  rows  for 
sowing  seeds  or  setting  plants.  To  make  them,  take  a 
piece  of  4x4  joist  six  and  a  half  feet  long,  to  which  attach 
a  handle  and  cross-piece,  the  whole  forming  the  letter  X* 


TOOLS    AND    TUEIR    USES.  31 

To  the  joist,  or  head,  nail  strips  two  inches  wide,  pro- 
jecting six  inches,  and  slightly  sharpened  at  the  ends.  Two 
markers  are  requisite,  on  one  of  which  set  the  strips  or 
teeth,  ten  inches  apart  on  one  side,  and  fifteen  inches  on 
the  reverse.  On  the  other  set  the  teeth  on  opposite  sides, 
twelve  and  eighteen  inches  apart. 

By  this  plan  four  markers  are  combined  m  two,  and 
fiicilities  are  afibrded  for  marking  rows  ten,  twelve,  fifteen, 
and  eigliteen  inches  apart,  or  the  spaces  may  be  varied  to 
suit. 

A  more  durable  marker  can  be  made  by  having  light, 
flat  iron  teeth,  but  in  this  case  the  frame  must  not  be  so 
heavy,  and  the  whole  may  be  iron-braced. 

In  marking  rows,  first  draw  the  line  straight  at  one 
side  of  the  bed,  and  walking  backwards,  draw  the  marker 
along,  keeping  the  outer  tooth  nearly  up  to  the  line;  then 
set  the  outer  tooth  in  the  inner  mark,  and  return,  and  so 
continue  until  the  land  is  finished. 

By  care,  a  broad  bed  can  thus  be  marked  out,  and  the 
rows  all  be  straight,  by  once  stretching  the  line.  These 
markers  can  be  used  for  wide  planting,  as,  for  instance, 
cabbages  at  thirty  inches ;  use  the  fifteen  inch  side  and 
plant  the  alternate  rows. 

Dibble* — The  best  dibble  or  implement  for  transplant- 
ing can  be  easily  made  from  a  natural  bent  limb  of  a  tree 
— apple  generally  affording  the  best.  It  should  be  ten 
inches  long,  with  the  crook  for  the  handle  four  inches 
more ;  the  main  part  one  and  a  half  inch  in  diameter 
at  the  centre,  and  from  there  gradually  tapering  to  a 
point,  which  should  bo  lightly  ironed  and  the  whole  made 
smooth.  This  style  is  far  preferable  to  the  old  one,  made 
from  the  upper  part  of  a  spade-handle. 

Seed-Sowers. — These  are  very  useful,  doing  the  work 
easier,  quicker,  and  in  most  cases  better  than  by  hand. 
They  are  regulated  generally  by  changeable  slides,  con- 


6^  FARM-GAIIDENING    AND    SEED-GliOWlXG. 

taining  holes  nicely  graded  as  to  size,  and  directions  for 
setting  to  sow  the  different  seeds  accompany  eacli  ma- 
chine; but  as  "  circmnstances  alter  cases,"  it  is  best  not 
to  pay  too  much  attention  to  these  instructions. 

The  best  way  is,  to  spread  a  cloth  and  bow  some  seed 
on  it,  varying  the  grade  to  suit  the  seed  and  the  quantity 
required.  All  sticks  and  chaff  should  be  removed  from 
seed  before  sowing  it  by  machine. 

ForkSt — The  most  convenient  fork  for  handling  manure 
is  one  that  is  light,  though  it  must  be  strong.  When  a 
fork  is  used  to  separate  stalks  from  seed  after  thrashing, 
one  with  very  few  tines  should  be  used,  that  the  seed  may 
be  thoroughly  shaken  out,  but  it  is  advisable  to  do  this 
work  by  the  hands  alone. 

Shears* — ^The  spring  shears,  such  as  are  used  for  prun- 
ing, are  very  useful  for  cutting  seed-stalks,  and  arc  far 
preferable  to  a  knife.  Sickles  make  quicker  work  than 
shears  in  cutting  the  stalks  of  cabbage  or  turnip  seed, 
but  there  is  more  jar,  which  causes  some  loss  of  seed,  and 
upon  the  whole  shears  may  be  considered  the  best  imple- 
ment for  cutting  seeds. 

TroweL — ^This  is  an  important  implement  in  lifting 
plants,  when  a  ball  of  earth  is  required,  attached  to  the 
roots.  It  is  also  useful  in  taking  up  dry  onions,  especially 
"  sets,"  and  very  handy  to  assist  in  transplanting  egg- 
plants, tomatoes,  etc.,  which  are  taken  up  with  balls  of 
earth. 

Straw  MatSt — ^These  are  very  useful  for  protecting  hot- 
beds and  cold-frames,  and  covering  onions,  onion  sets,  etc. 

The  usual  size  is  live  by  seven  feet.  To  make  them, 
erect  a  frame  in  the  market-house,  or  some  out-building, 
using  for  the  sides  common  boards  set  edgewise  against 
the  wall  or  partition,  with  a  piece  of  joist  at  the  top  and 
one  near  the  floor  at  the  bottom. 

The  frame  should  be  five  feet  wide,  and  in  hight  from 


TOOLS    AND    THEIR    USES.  33 

the  floor  to  the  ceiling.  In  each  piece  of  joist  firmly  set 
iron  staples  one  foot  apart  and  six  inches  from  either  side. 
From  the  lower  staples  to  the  upper  ones  firmly  stretch 
strings  of  tarred  marline,  seven  feet  long.  Make  a 
straw  band  five  feet  long  and  one  inch  thick,  by 
firmly  wrapping  the  straw  with  tarred  string.  •  Fasten 
the  band  securely  at  the  bottom  of  the  upright  cords 
by  means  of  tarred  strings,  which  for  convenience'  sake 
may  be  wound  on  sticks,  and  must  be  attached  to  the  up- 
rights, and  afterwards  serves  for  binding  the  straw. 

Supposing  two  men  to  be  engaged  at  this  work,  which 
is  the  most  expeditious  plan,  let  each  be  provided  with  a 
bundle  of  straw,  and  taking  sufficient  to  make  an  inch  in 
diameter  Avhen  bound,  place  the  but-ends  against  the 
frame  on  each  side,  and  wrap  the  tarred  strings  around 
the  straw  and  the  upright  at  the  same  time,  passing  it 
through  in  the  form  of  a  half-hitch,  and  draw  it  tight.  To 
make  the  strings  draw  easy,  rub  them  with  soap.  "When 
the  desired  length  is  completed,  put  on  a  band  as  in  the 
start.  It  is  very  important  to  have  good  rye  straw  for 
this  purpose. 

It  should  be  reaped,  ^nd  hand-thrashed,  or,  what  is  bet- 
ter still,  be  reaped  when  in  blossom,  whereby  it  docs  not 
require  thrashing,  hence  is  much  stronger,  and  moreover 
does  not  contain  any  grain  to  attract  mice  when  the  mats 
are  stored. 

Straw  mats,  if  rolled  up  and  stored  away  when  out  of 
use,  and  temporarily  put  away  during  wet  weather,  when 
in  use,  will  last  a  great  many  years. 

Sashes* — These  are  very  important.  They  may  be 
made  of  any  convenient  size.  Those  generally  used  by 
gardeners  are  three  by  six  feet,  the  frames  of  clear  pine, 
an  inch  and  a  half  thick ;  the  glass  six  by  eight  inches,  and 
of  the  best  quality.  By  keeping  them  glazed  and  painted 
they  will  last  many  years. 
2* 


34:  FARM-GARDEXIXG    AXD    SEED-GKOWING. 

Shutters. — These  are  made  of  worked  ceiling  boards, 
of  the  same  size  as  the  sashes,  and  are  battened  the  same 
as  a  door.  They  are  very  convenient  to  put  OA^er  plants 
in  the  frames,  from  which  the  sashes  have  been  removed, 
in  case  of  sudden  cold  or  storm,  and  can  also  be  used  over 
the  sashes  in  cold  weather  as  a  protection.  They  are  very 
convenient  to  dry  seeds  on,  and  may  be  put  to  a  variety 
of  uses. 

Wheelbarrows. — The  person  who  has  vegetables  to 
prepare  for  market,  will  find  these  very  convenient  in 
bringing  the  produce  from  the  field  to  the  market-house, 
also  in  moving  plants  of  egg-plant,  tomato,  etc.,  from  the 
hot-beds  to  the  ground,  and  there  are  numerous  times 
when  the  wheelbarrow  is  quite  as  important  as  the  wagon 
to  the  gardener.  Those  generally  used  by  market-gar- 
deners are  of  the  box  pattern,  and  usually  twice  as  large 
as  those  sold  in  the  stores. 

Fan-Mill. — This  to  the  seed-grower  is  very  valuable, 
and  it  is  important  to  have  sieves  for  it  of  every  grade,  to 
accommodate  seeds  of  any  size  or  weight.  In  cleaning 
seeds  with  the  fan-mill,  let  them  run  slowly  and  evenly, 
and  regulate  the  sieves  according  to  the  size  of  the  seed, 
and  the  force  of  wind  according  to  its  weight ;  light 
seeds  requiring  a  light  wind,  and  vice  versa. 

Sieves. — These  are  also  indispensable  in  cleaning  seeds, 
as  many  kinds  can  not  be  thoroughly  cleaned  by  the  fan- 
mill.  It  is  well  to  have  a  full  set,  from  No.  2  to  Xo.  40. 
The  numbers  are  in  accordance  with  the  meshes  to  a 
square  inch,  and  from  No.  8  upwards  should  be  of  brass 
wire,  as  those  of  fine  iron  wire  soon  rust  out. 

Cloths. — Cloths  for  gathering  seeds,  etc.,  are  very  use- 
ful, and  it  is  well  to  have  a  good  supply.  A  cloth  the  full 
size  of  the  thrashing  floor  is  useful  in  saving  seed,  unless 
the  joints  are  very  tight,  and  even  then  the  seed  can  be 
more  readily  handled,  and  is  not  so  liable  to  be  broken 


TOOLS    AND    THEIIl    USES.  35 

wlien  on  a  clotli  as  when  thrashed  on  the  bare  floor. 
Another  cloth,  sufficiently  large  to  cover  the  bottom  and 
sides  of  a  wagon,  is  necessary  in  carrying  seeds  from  the 
field  to  the  barn  to  be  thrashed,  and  may  also  be  used  for 
covering  vegetables  when  being  transported  by  wagon. 
This  and  the  preceding  one  should  be  made  of  light  cot- 
ton-duck ;  sometimes  old  sails  can  be  had  sufficiently 
sound  to  answer  the  jDurpose.  "Hand-cloths"  nine  feet 
square  are  useful  for  carrying  seeds.  These  should  be 
made  of  an  article  called  "  burlaps,"  except  such  as  are 
only  used  to  dry  seeds  on,  which  may  be  of  strong 
muslin. 

Wagons. — Market-gardeners  who  convey  their  produce 
directly  to  market,  use  spring  wagons,  made  very  strong, 
to  carry  a  heavy  load  of  vegetables,  and  bring  back  a 
load  of  manure.  Such  a  wagon  will  be  very  useful  to  the 
farm-gardener,  in  conveying  produce  to  the  point  of  ship- 
ment, and  also  to  the  seed-grower  in  carrying  seeds,  etc., 
from  the  field  to  the  barn,  and  for  sundry  other  purposes ; 
but  in  these  cases,  the  latter  especially,  it  need  not  be  so 
heavy.  A  convenient  size  is  one  large  enough  to  carry 
ten  barrels,  with  high  body  and  flaring  side-boards.  For 
carting  manure,  farm  wagons  are  certainly  the  best,  when 
conveying  it  any  considerable  distance,  but  for  this  pur- 
pose, at  home,  dumj^ing  carts  are  far  preferable. 

Buildings. — Good  comfortable  stables  and  barn  room, 
as  well  as  sheds  for  wagons,  plows,  sashes,  mats,  etc.,  are 
indispensable,  and  in  addition,  those  who  grow  vegetables 
for  market  will  need  a  place  wherein  to  prepare  stuff  for 
market,  and  water  convenient  is  necessary,  for  such 
things  as  require  washing.  This  building,  generally 
called  the  "  market-house,"  should  be  of  good  size,  and 
may  be  used  for  storing  those  of  the  smaller  tools  which 
are  frequently  needed. 

The  upper  part  will  be  very  convenient  for  storage  pur- 
poses.    A  good  cellar  beneath  will  not  be  amiss. 


36  FAKM-GAKDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

The  seed-grower  requires  a  room  similar  to  this  in 
which  to  work  wet  days,  clean  seeds  in  winter,  etc.,  and 
in  addition,  a  dry,  well-ventilated  room  for  storing,  and 
an  abundance  of  loft  room  for  drying  seeds,  all  of  which 
should  be  so  constructed  as  to  be  free  from  mice  and  rats, 
which  make  sad  havoc  among  seeds  when  they  once  get 
in.  Seed  lofts  should  be  divided,  to  prevent  the  seeds  be- 
coming mixed,  by  any  means,  while  drying. 

STORING    ROOTS    FOR   WINTER. 

Many  roots  are  the  most  salable  in  winter,  when  there 
are  no  green  vegetables,  and  many  seed  crops  require  the 
roots  to  be  carefully  preserved  from  frost  during  winter 
and  transplanted  sound  in  the  spring.  To  preserve  them 
properly  is  an  important  matter.  The  most  natural  and 
the  simplest  plan,  is  to  jout  them  in  pits.  These  should 
not  be  very  deep,  nor  very  long,  as  it  is  not  advisable  to 
store  many  in  one  bulk.  A  good  size  is  one  that  will  hold 
about  thirty-five  bushels,  twelve  feet  long,  two  feet  deep, 
two  feet  wide  at  the  bottom,  and  two  and  a  half  feet  at 
the  top.  The  pit  should  be  filled  rather  more  than  even- 
full,  covered  with  six  inches  of  straw  and  eight  inches  of 
earth,  which  must  be  packed  firm  to  turn  the  water. 

"  Chimneys "  of  straw  may  protrude  from  the  center 
for  ventilation,  biat  if  the  bulk  is  small  and  the  roots  are 
perfectly  dry  when  put  away,  this  will  not  be  necessary. 
At  the  approach  of  severe  cold  weather,  the  covering 
should  be  increased  to  eighteen  inches,  or  at  least  enough 
to  keep  out  the  frost. 

Root-cellars  were  formerly  used  to  some  extent,  and 
will  yet  be  found  very  convenient,  where  small  lots  of 
roots  are  frequently  wanted.  They  can  be  made  by  dig- 
ging, say  six  feet  deep,  any  length  and  breadth,  setting 
posts  and  boarding  up  the  sides,  covering  with  a  strong 


HAKVESTING    AND    CLEANING    SEEDS.  37 

roof,  over  wliioh  put  twelve  inches  of  soil  and  sod  the 
whole. 

The  door  should  be  to  the  southward,  and  so  arranged 
as  to  bo  covered  in  severe  cold  Aveather.  No  windows  are 
necessary,  as  all  roots  keep  best  away  from  the  light. 
The  inside  may  be  divided  into  bins,  of  any  convenient 
size,  but  here,  as  in  pitting,  it  will  be  advisable  not  to  put 
too  many  roots  in  one  bulk.  An  ordinary  cellar  can  be 
used,  if  free  from  frost  and  yet  not  over-warm  ;  but  tlie 
main  difficulty  generally  is,  cellars  are  too  dry,  and  there 
is  too  much  light.  Roots  will  keep  well  in  a  cool  cellar, 
placed  in  lieaps,  and  covered  with  thin  sods. 

Onions  should  be  kept  in  a  dry  loft,  well  ventilated, 
and  spread  thin  until  settled  cold  weather,  when  they 
may  be  put  thicker,  and  covered  with  straw  mats,  straw, 
or  liay.  They  must  not  be  disturbed  while  frozen,  nor  the 
covering  removed  until  they  become  thawed  out  away 
from  the  light  and  air.  Directions  for  preserving  green 
roots,  such  as  celery,  etc.,  arc  given  under  their  respective 
heads. 


HARVESTING  AND    CLEANING   SEEDS. 

Particular  attention  must  be  paid  to  these  two  points. 
Seeds,  to  look  well,  should  be  perfectly  clean,  entirely  free 
from  chaff,  sticks,  sand,  and  all  foreign  matter,  and  in 
cleaning,  much  depends  on  how  they  have  been  harvested. 

Beans,  peas,  etc.,  will  be  more  or  less  damaged  in  ap- 
pearance if  exposed  to  rains  after  they  are  ripe ;  so  also 
will  wet  Aveather  injure  seeds  of  cabbage,  turnip,  etc.,  by 
destroying  the  color,  and  causing  some  to  sprout  if  long 
exposed. 

In  fact,  all  seeds  have  a  much  brighter  appearance  when 
liarvested  as  soon  as  ripe,  than  when  allowed  to  be  wea- 
ther-beaten.     Hence,  while  it  is  essential  that  all  seeds 


33  rAE:SI-GAKDENING    AXD    SEED-GEOWING. 

should  bo  faily  matured,  it  is  also  important  to  gather 
them  as  soon  as  they  are  ripe. 

The  thrashing  of  seeds  must  be  carefully  done,  to  avoid 
breaking  with  the  flail,  and  grinding  under  foot,  especially 
those  of  a  soft  and  oily  nature.  Thrashing  should  be 
done,  so  far  as  practicable,  when  the  air  is  dry.  In  fer- 
menting seeds  of  pulpy  vegetables  for  washing,  judgment 
is  required,  for  while,  as  a  rule,  no  seeds  are  injured  so  far 
as  germinating  is  concerned  so  long  as  they  lie  in  the^iat- 
ural  juice,  yet  if  allowed  to  remain  longer  than  necessary 
to  remove  the  mucilaginous  covering  they  soon  lose  color. 

In  washing,  it  is  very  essential  that  it  be  done  in  the 
early  part  of  a  clear  day,  that  the  seeds  shall  not  be  long 
wet  by  water,  lest  some  may  sprout,  and  hence  be  spoiled. 
Never  put  seeds  away  in  bulk,  until  they  are  thoroughly 
free  from  moisture. 

FALL    PLOWING. 

I  desire  to  call  the  attention  of  those  who  till  the  soil, 
especially  those  who  may  go  into  the  business  of  farm- 
gardening  or  seed-growing,  to  the  importance,  in  my 
opinion,  of  plowing  land  in  the  fall.  The  subject  has 
been  discussed  at  various  times,  and  while  some  have 
asserted  that  it  is  productive  of  but  little  or  no  good 
results,  yet  there  are  some  who  deem  this  practice  of 
great  importance  as  being  vastly  beneficial  to  the  soil. 

It  is  the  custom  almost  universally  among  market-gar- 
deners, with  whom  it  is  important  to  have  the  soil  fine 
and  free  from  lumps,  to  plow  their  ground  deeply  and 
harrow  thoroughly  after  the  crops  have  been  removed  in 
the  fall,  for  they  understand  full  well  there  is  nothing 
which  will  so  completely  aid  in  pulverizing  the  soil  as 
the  action  of  frost,  and  being  loosened  by  the  plow,  the 
frost  can  act  more  efTectually  during  the  winter ;  and 
moreover,  the  sun   acts  more   forcibly   upon   it  in   the 


FALL   PLOWIXG.  39 

spring;  consequently,  it  thaws  quicker,  and  can  be 
worked  earlier  than  when  left  as  the  previous  crop  was 
taken  from  it. 

Some  contend  that  on  fall-plowed  land  the  snows  of 
winter  are  as  beneficial  as  an  ordinary  dressing  of  ma- 
nure, and  while  I  can  not  vouch  for  the  truth  of  this,  yet 
there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  snow  collects  and  brings 
with  it  the  gases  and  impurities  floating  in  the  air,  which 
may  be  beneficial  to  the  soil,  and  can,  of  course,  become 
more  thoroughly  impregnated  where  the  land  is  newly 
plowed. 

One  thing  is  positively  certain,  that  land  plowed  in  the 
fall  or  early  winter  can  be  plowed  again  in  the  spring 
earlier  and  easier  and  more  free  from  lumps  than  that  not 
fall-plowed,  and  this  with  the  comparative  ease  with 
which  it  can  be  worked  during  the  summer  will  more 
than  compensate  for  the  time  consumed  in  extra  plowing, 
to  say  nothing  of  fhe  increase  of  crops  brought  about  by 
the  land  being  in  suitable  condition  for  the  roots  to  take 
hold,  and  to  find  nourishment  for  the  growing  plant. 


40  FAEM-GAEDEXING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 


VEGETABLES      AND      THEIR      SEEDS. 


ASPARAGUS. 

The  increasing  demaud  and  consequent  high  prices  ob- 
tained for  this  vegetable,  as  well  as  its  availability  for 
transportation,  render  it  an  object  worthy  the  attention 
of  the  farm-gardener.  Quantities  of  it  are  being  annually 
planted  at  the  e&st  end  of  Long  Island,  where  the  charac- 
ter of  the  soil  and  the  humid,  saline  air  seems  particularly 
adapted  to  its  growth.  As  a  general  rule,  asparagus  suc- 
ceeds best  near  the  sea-coast,  though  it  can  be  (and  is) 
profitably  grown  far  inland,  and  upon  almost  any  soil,  by 
proper  preparation  and  careful  attention,  and  in  fact  this 
is  a  very  essential  point  and  the  great  secret  of  success  in 
any  locality.  Those  who  contemplate  growing  this  vege- 
table for  profit  will  do  well  to  bear  in  mind  the  latter 
fact;  and,  moreover,  it  matters  not  how  well  the  bed  may 
have  been  prepared  and  enriched  in  the  beginning,  unless 
it  is  kept  up  to  a  high  state  of  fertility  by  annual  applica- 
tions of  manure  in  liberal  quantity  and  thorough  working, 
all  preliminary  labor  will  have  been  in  vain.  An  aspara- 
gus bed,  thoroughly  prepared  and  pro2:)erly  attended  to, 
will  continue  to  yield  in  large  quantity  for  an  indefinite 
number  of  years,  most  writers  placing  the  time  at  twenty, 
but  I  have  known  of  at  least  one  bed  producing  profit- 
ably for  thirty  years  from  the  time  of  planting. 

Growing  the  Plants. — The  soil  best  adapted  to  grow- 
ing asparagus  roots  or  plants  is  a  deep  loam  where  sand 
predominates,  and  which  has  been  well  manured  the  pre- 
ceding year.  Give  a  good  dressing  of  stable-manure, 
plowed  under,   or   bone-dust,   bone-phosphate,   or  guano 


ASPARAGUS.  41 

harrowed  ip.  The  ground  should  be  deeply  and  thor- 
oughly plowed,  and  harrowed  fine.  Mark  out  rows 
fifteen  inches  apart,  about  two  inches  deep,  and  sow  the 
seed  in  them  evenly  and  thinly  as  early  in  the  spring  as 
the  ground  can  be  worked.  If  tlie  plants  are  to  be  used 
when  one  year  old,  thin  to  three  inches  apart  as  soon  as 
they  are  up.  If  not  to  be  used  until  the  second  year, 
they  will  not  require  thinning  if  evenly  sown. 

As  soon  as  the  plants  are  up,  use  a  twelve-inch  push  or 
scuffle-hoe  between  the  rows,  and  remove  all  weeds  in  the 
rows  by  hand,  and  at  the  same  time  thin  the  plants  if  it  is 
intended  to  transplant  them  at  one  year  old. 

About  a  fortnight  after,  use  the  prong-hoe  to  loosen  the 
soil.  Keep  free  from  weeds  all  the  season.  Let  the  stalks 
remain  on  the  bed  until  spring  to  protect  the  young  roots 
from  severe  freezing  and  to  prevent  the  ground  from 
heaving.  If  the  plants  are  not  removed  in  spring,  the 
only  attention  required  the  second  season  will  bo  to 
occasionally  loosen  the  soil,  and  keep  them  free  from 
weeds. 

One  pound  of  .seed  will  produce  ten  thousand  plants. 
The  roots  may  be  obtained  from  any  nurseryman  or 
seedsman  if  it  is  desirable  to  save  the  time  and  trouble 
of  growing  them.  One-year-old  plants,  or  those  two 
years,  grown  in  good  soil  and  not  stunted,  are  the  best, 
though  they  may  be  used  at  three  years  old. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — Asparagus  can  be  grown  in 
almost  any  soil,  but  succeeds  best  in  a  sandy  loam  with 
deep  surface  and  porous  clay  or  sandy  subsoil.  It  can 
scarcely  be  made  too  rich,  nor  be  too  well  prepared.  It 
is  a  rank  feeder,  and  its  roots  penetrate  the  earth  to  a 
great  depth  and  in  every  direction ;  therefore,  the  more 
assistance  given  to  the  plant  by  thorough  cultivation,  the 
greater  will  be  the  product.  The  land  intended  for  an 
asparagus-bed  should  be  deeply  plowed  in  the  fall,  using 
at  the  same  time  the  lifting  subsoil  plow,  which  should  go 


42  FAKM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GKOWING. 

as  deep  as  possible,  following  with  the  harrow  until  the 
surface  soil  is  finely  pulverized. 

In  the  spring,  apply  well-rotted  stable-manure,  broad- 
cast, at  the  rate  of  sixty-two  horse-loads  to  the  acre,  or 
when  this  can  not  be  obtained  use  raw  bone-dust,  two 
tons  to  the  acre.  These  two  fertilizers  may  be  used  to- 
gether ;  one  half  the  above-named  quantities  of  each  to 
the  acre. 

Plow  deep,  again  using  the  subsoil  plow ;  harrow  finely 
and  evenly. 

If  the  ground  is  poor,  use  about  two  barrels  of  bone- 
phosphate,  or  seventy-five  pounds  of  Peruvian  guano,  to 
the  acre  in  the  rows,  applied  at  the  first  hoeing. 

Planting  and  Cultiyating. — Asparagus  may  be  set  in 
the  fall,  but  it  is  far  preferable  to  use  the  fall  and  winter 
in  preparing  the  land,  carting  manure,  etc.  ;  thus  having 
everything  ready  for  an  early  start  in  the  spring,  and  the 
earlier  it  is  set  out  the  better.  There  is  a  diversity  of 
opinion  in  regard  to  the  most  suitable  distance  at  which 
the  plants  should  be  set  to  obtain  the  greatest  results. 

Some  advise  setting  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches  each  way, 
while  others  argue  that  better  results  will  be  obtained  by 
placing  them  six  feet  each  way.  My  own  observation 
and  experience  convince  me  that  these  are  opposite  ex- 
tremes. When  the  bed  has  been  thoroughly  prepared  by 
plowing,  subsoiling,  manuring,  and  harrowing,  mark  out 
furrows  five  feet  apart  and  about  eight  inches  deep.  Set 
the  plants  eighteen  inches  apart,  spreading  the  roots,  cov- 
ering and  fastening  them  firmly,  burying  the  crowns  about 
one  inch.  At  the  distance  here  given,  five  thousand  five 
hundred  and  eight  will  set  an  acre. 

The  crown  and  roots  occupying  about  two  inches,  the 
top  of  the  crown  (though  to  be  covered  only  one  inch  at 
first)  will  be  about  six  inches  below  the  level  of  the  sur- 
face when  the  fdrrows  have  become  filled  with  earth.  As 
soon  as  the  stalks  or  young  shoots  appear,  cultivate  and 


ASPARAGUS.  43 

hoe,  and  repeat  during  the  summer,  gradually  filling  the 
furrows,  so  that  by  fail  the  whole  surface  may  be  level. 

The  object  of  this  plan  is  to  ultimately  have  the  crow^ns 
deep,  which,  on  account  of  the  weakness  of  the  shoot  the 
first  season,  can  not  be  accomplished  at  the  time  of  plant- 
ing. In  the  fall,  plow  a  light  furrow  to  the  rows  on  both 
sides,  previously  applying  well-rotted  manure  or  bone-dust 
over  the  rows.  In  spring,  harrow  down  level,  cultivate 
and  hoe  during  the  summer,  never  allowing  the  weeds  to 
get  a  start.  The  following  or  second  fall,  plow  away  from 
the  rows  on  both  sides ;  apply  well-rotted  manure,  compost, 
or  bone-dust  in  the  farrows,  and  plow  back,  leaving  the 
earth  in  ridges  over  every  row,  stirring  the  ground  be- 
tween the  rows,  and  always  being  careful  not  to  cut  or 
disturb  the  roots.  In  spring,  harrow  down  nearly  or  quite 
level.  This  season  the  strongest  shoots  may  be  cut ;  but 
avoid  cutting  many,  lest  the  roots  be  weakened  and  there- 
by permanently  injured.  Cultivate  during  the  summer  as 
before,  manuring  the  following  and  every  succeeding  fall 
as  previously  directed.  After  the  third  year  the  asparagus 
may  be  cut  indiscriminately.  Every  succeeding  spring 
the  earth  should  be  harrowed  fine,  and  may  be  left  slight- 
ly raised  above  the  rows,  which  has  a  tendency  to  bring 
the  shoots  forward  earlier  than  when  grown  on  a  level  sur- 
face. The  stalks  should  be  removed  before  the  seeds 
ripen  and  fall,  lest  they  germinate  and  grow,  causing  more 
work,  and  if  the  plants  are  allowed  to  remain,  they  will 
soon  make  the  bed  a  mass  of  roots  and  damage  the  crop. 
Coarse  salt  may  be  used  after  the  third  year  at  the  rate 
of  five  bushels  to  the  acre,  applied  to  the  rows  with  the 
manure,  or  three  times  that  quantity,  broadcast,  in  the  fall. 
Some  argue  that  a  heavier  dressing  will  be  beneficial, 
and  even  assert  that  salt  may  be  applied  to  this  crop, 
broadcast,  one  half  an  inch  thick  over  the  entire  surface. 

I  would  not,  however,  recommend  using  more  than  the 
quantity  first  named,  and  it  is  very  doubtful  whether  this 


44  FAKM-GAIIDENING    AND    GEEI>GROWI^■G. 

would  bo  "beneficial  near  the  seacoast,  where  there  is  a 
saline  atmosphere,  except  so  far  as  it  may  liave  a  tend- 
ency to  destroy  weeds. 

Cutting  and  Bunching. — The  season  of  asparagus  usual- 
ly lasts  until  about  the  middle  of  June,  but  is  governed 
in  a  great  measure  by  *'  early  peas,"  for  as  soon  as  these 
become  abundant  in  the  markets,  there  is  but  little  call 
for  asparagus. 

There  are  knives  made  expressly  for  cutting  asparagus, 
but  I  have  always  found  an  ordinary  long-bladed  butch- 
er's-knife  to  answer  every  purpose.  The  person  cutting 
should  be  provided  with  a  whetstone  to  keep  the  knife 
sharp. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  season,  asparagus  will  require 
cutting  only  about  three  times  a  week,  but  as  the  season 
advances  and  the  weather  becomes  warm,  it  will  be  neces- 
sary to  cut  it  every  day,  and  sometimes,  when  very 
warm,  just  after  a   rain,  it  must  be  cut  twice  in  one  day. 

It  should  always  be  cut  before  the  head  bursts, 
as  after  that  time  it  is  useless  for  marketinsc.  When  cut- 
ting  lay  the  stalks  in  handfuls  along  the  rows,  afterwards 
gathering  them  in  baskets,  but  avoid  letting  them  become 
wilted  after  cutting.  Wash  before  tying.  Do  not  sufier 
asparagus  to  remain  in  any  other  than  an  upright  position 
for  any  great  length  of  time,  and  always  pack  it  upright, 
for  if  laid  otherwise  the  heads  will  turn  upwards,  thus 
crooking  the  stalks  or  bunches. 

In  bunching,  a  frame  is  used,  which  is  made  of  two 
pieces  of  common  board,  nailed  one  against  the  other  at 
right  angles;  the  one  for  the  back  six  inches  high  and 
twelve  inches  long,  the  bottom  about  ten  inches  wide  and 
twelve  inches  long. 

In  this  bottom-piece  are  placed  four  light  upright  stakes 
about  six  inches  long,  about  four  inches  apart  each  way, 
in  the  form  of  a  square,  commencing  two  inches  from  the 
back.     This  is  the  primitive  and  cheap  style  of  buncher. 


ASPARAGUS.  45 

now  partially  superseded  by  machines  constructed  of  metal, 
much  more  convenient  than  the  one  described.  In  either 
case,  across  the  bottom  and  between  the  stakes  or  metal 
bands,  a  string  must  be  laid,  and  on  this  lay  the  asparagus, 
the  heads  against  the  back  board,  to  keep  them  even  until 
a  quantity  sufficient  for  a  bunch  of  the  size  desired  has 
been  placed  in.  Draw  the  string  tight  and  tie,  cut  the 
bottom  or  base  of  the  bunch  even,  remove  from  the  frame, 
press  the  string  down  firm,  place  a  light  string  above  the 
other  near  the  top,  and  the  bunch  is  ready  for  market. 
The  size  of  the  bunch  must  be  regulated  by  circumstances. 
The  stalks  should  be  cut  when  about  six  inches  above 
ground,  cutting  four  inches  below,  hence  averaging  ten 
inches  in  length,  and  when  trimmed  will  leave  the  bunch 
about  nine  inches  long. 

An  ordinary  bunch  is  from  four  to  five  inches  in  diame- 
ter at  the  center.  Use  bass-mat  or  other  flat  strings,  to 
avoid  cutting  the  stalks. 

Pack  the  bunches  with  fresh-cut  grass,  below  and  be- 
tween, in  boxes,  keeping  in  an  upright  position. 

Growing  for  Family  Use. — When  asparagus  is  grown 
for  family  use  only,  in  small  quantities,  the  rows  may  bo 
not  more  than  half  as  far  apart  as  for  field  culture,  in  which 
case  the  bed  must  be  worked  entirely  by  hand,  using  the 
sj)ading  fork  to  loosen  the  soil. 

Seed. — Asparagus  produces  seed  when  two  years  old. 
When  fully  developed,  the  stalks  are  from  five  to  six  feet 
in  hight,  with  numerous  branches,  upon  which  are  pro- 
duced a  profusion  of  bright  scarlet  berries,  containing 
from  three  to  six  seeds  each.  To  save  the  seed,  cut 
the  stalks  as  soon  as  the  berries  are  ripe,  which  may  be 
known  by  their  changing  color  from  green  to  scarlet,  and 
softening  somewhat.  The  berries  may  be  stripped  by 
hand,  or  thrashed  upon  a  cloth  or  floor.  After  separating 
from  the  stalks,  place  the  berries  in  a  barrel  or  tub,  and 
mash  them  with   a  wooden  pounder,  to  break  the  outer 


46  FAEM-GAKDENIKG   AND    SEED-GE OWING. 

shells,  and  then  separate  the  pulp  from  the  seed  by- 
washing. 

When  placed  in  water  the  seeds  will  settle,  while  the 
pulp  and  shells  will  readily  pass  away  in  pouring  off  the 
water.  Repeat  the  washing  three  or  four  times,  and  the 
seed  will  be  clean  ;  it  should  then  be  placed  on  boards  to 
dry,  in  the  sun  and  wind.  After  the  first  day  remove 
from  the  sun,  but  expose  to  the  air  in  a  dry  loft,  spread 
thin,  for  ten  days  or  more. 

The  seed  retains  its  vitality  from  two  to  three  years. 

Varieties* — ^Until  quite  recently  the  varieties  of  aspara- 
gus have  been  mainly  designated  as  "  Purple  Top  Giant " 
and  "  Green  Top  Giant,"  but  there  has  virtually  been  but 
one  kind — that  growing  in  heavy  soil  producing  purple, 
and  in  loamy  soil  green,  and  in  very  sandy  soils  very 
light  green  or  nearly  white  tops  or  heads.  "  Conover's 
Colossal "  is  undoubtedly  a  distinct  and  improved  variety, 
growing  very  strong  and  producing  stalks  of  enormous^ 
size.  Other  varieties  are  being  introduced,  and  any  real 
improvement  will  be  duly  appreciated,  but  much  must 
depend  upon  the  treatment  bestowed  upon  the  plants,  of 
whatever  variety. 

BEAN. 

Bush  or  Dwarf. — These  varieties  are  available  for  ship- 
ping in  the  green  state,  if  packed  in  a  manner  to  prevent 
heating. 

It  has  generally  been  conceded  that  beans,  especially 
the  white  or  pea  bean,  will  grow  where  the  land  is  too 
poor  to  produce  anything  else ;  but  these,  like  all  other 
vegetables,  will  amply  repay  good  treatment. 

Soil  and  Preparation.— Select  a  piece  of  warm  land, 
rather  light  than  otherwise ;  apply  twenty  two-horse  loads 
of  stable  manure  plowed  in,  or  one  thousand  pounds  of 
bone-flour,  or  five  hundred  pounds  of  guano,  harrowed  in. 


BEAN.  47 

They  may  be  manured  in  the  row  Vfith  good  compost 
or  well-rotted  manure  in  liberal  quantities,  but  broadcast 
manuring  is  preferable.  Plow  and  harrow  thoroughly,  to 
make  the  soil  fine  and  free  from  lumps. 

Planting  and  Cultiyating. — Mark  out  furrows  about 
four  inches  deep,  two  and  a  half  feet  apart  for  the  smaller 
and  three  feet  for  the  strong-growing  varieties,  and  plant 
from  three  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  according  to 
the  variety.  One  to  one  and  a  half  bushel  will  plant  an 
acre.  The  season  of  planting  is  after  all  danger  of  frost 
is  past,  usually  about  the  middle  of  May  in  this  latitude, 
and  at  intervals  until  August,  which  is  the  time  for  plant- 
ing what  are  called  "  Pickling  Beans,"  used  for  salting 
down  for  winter. 

These  usually  bring  as  good  prices  as  any,  except,  per- 
haps, the  very  earliest,  and  some  seasons  they  are  scarce 
and  high.  For  this  purpose  the  Refugee  is  principally 
used.  In  growing  for  seed,  it  is  best  to  plant  in  the 
first  of  the  season,  though  they  will  ripen  if  sown  early  in 
July,  but  the  j^roduct  will  not  be  so  heavy.  Work  with 
the  cultivator  and  hoe,  and  at  the  final  hoeing  draw  a 
little  earth  to  the  ]3lants,  as  beans,  like  peas,  produce 
longer  and  more  abundantly  by  having  the  roots  well 
covered. 

Preparing  for  Market. — When  marketed  green  tliey 
should  be  gathered  as  the  beans  begin  to  swell  in  the 
pods,  or  a  little  more  than  half-grown,  never  washed,  nor 
yet  allowed  to  become  wilted,  and  shipped  in  crates  or 
barrels  well  ventilated,  to  prevent  heating.  They  are 
usually  sold  by  the  bushel. 

Seed* — The  manner  of  growing  for  seed  is  the  same  as 
for  marketing  green. 

When  the  pods  are  nearly  dry,  the  plants  must  be 
pulled  by  the  roots,  and  laid  in  Tows  for  one  or  two  days, 
and  turned  over  each  day,  when  they  may  be  thrashed, 


48  FARM-GA.KDENIXG    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

selecting  a  dry  time,  and  being  careful  to  avoid  breaking 
with  the  flail.  Heavy  rains  on  them  after  they  are  pulled 
are  apt  to  injure  the  color  and  brightness  of  the  seed, 
hence  it  is  essential  to  avoid  this,  if  any  way  possible. 
After  thrashing,  spread  thin  in  a  loft  for  two  weeks  or 
more,  when  they  may  be  passed  through  the  fan-mill,  and 
stored  in  bags  or  barrels,  until  required  for  shipping. 
They  will  be  much  improved  in  appearance  by  sifting 
with  No.  5  sieve  and  removing  all  imperfect  grain,s  by 
hand. 

They  retain  their  vitality  two  years. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  are  numerous,  and  I  will  only 
describe  some  of  the  leading  sorts. 

Early  Valentine. — Plant  comj^act  and  upright,  rather 
dwarf;  pods  short  and  round;  seeds  oblong,  sometimes 
irregular,  color  pale  pink,  variegated  with  bright  pink  and 
occasionally  white  streaks  or  spots ;  eighteen  hundred  of 
them  will  measure  one  quart.  One  of  the  most  produc- 
tive of  the  dwarfs,  and  perhaps  the  best  early  variety 
for  using  in  the  green  state. 

Early  Dlohawk. — ^Plant  strong  and  vigorous,  a  strag- 
gling grower;  pods  long  and  flattened;  seeds  large  and 
flattened,  color  dull  purple,  variegated  with  drab  and 
brown;  fifteen  hundred  of  them  will  measure  a  quart. 
Not  so  early  as  the  Valentine,  but  more  hardy  and  quite 
productive. 

Early  China. — Plant  compact  and  upright,  dwarf; 
pods  short  and  round,  seeds  short,  thick,  and  round,  white 
with  distinct  red  eye ;  seventeen  hundred  of  them  will 
measure  a  quart.  Avery  fine  bean  to  use  in  the  dry  state, 
the  only  objection  being  the  color  of  the  eye,  which 
spoils  the  looks  when  cooked. 

Early  Newini^ton  Wonder. — Plant  tali  and  vigorous, 
sometimes  inclined  to  run ;   pods  small,  seeds  small,  flat- 


BEAN.  49 

tened,  drab  yellow,  brown  at  the  eye.  Over  three  thou- 
sand are  requirsd  to  measure  one  quart. 

Refugee,  or  1,000  to  1. — Late  and  very  prolific;  plant 
very  large  and  tall,  inclined  to  run;  pods  long  and  round; 
seeds  long  and  thin,  nearly  round,  drab  and  purple 
spotted,  slightly  variegated  with  dull  white ;  eighteen 
hundred  will  measure  one  quart.  One  of  the  very  best 
for  using  in  the  green  state,  extensively  grown  and  sold 
late  for  pickling. 

White  Kidney. — ^Plant  tall  and  vigorous  ;  pods  irregu- 
lar ;  seeds  white,  long,  and  kidney-shaped  ;  twelve  hun- 
dred will  measure  one  quart. 

White  Marrow. — Plant  tall  and  branching,  inclined  to 
run ;  pods  rather  flattened  ;  seeds  white,  thick,  nearly 
round ;  fourteen  hundred  will  measure  one  quart. 

White  Soup  or  Pea  Bean. — Plant  large,  stragglhig, 
and  inclined  to  run;  pods  round;  seeds  small,  white,  ob- 
long. Four  thousand  of  them  will  measure  one  quart. 
This  and  the  two  preceding  varieties  are  used  almost 
wholly  in  the  dry  state,  and  the  latter  especially  ripens 
very  unevenly,  consequently  the  vines  must  be  pulled 
when  the  bulk  of  the  crop  is  ripe,  and  laid  on  boards,  or 
hung  on  fences,  etc.,  to  allow  the  balance  to  ripen. 


Pole  or  Running. — The  varieties  of  the  Pole-Bean 
are  quite  numerous,  but  the  well-known  Lima  is  the  only 
variety  grown  to  any -extent  for  marketing  in  this  section. 
The  other  varieties  are  fully  described  in  all  the  leading 
works  on  gardening,  and  as  the  manner  of  cultivation  is 
very  similar,  I  will  only  treat  of  this  one  principal  vari- 
ety. The  soil  should  be  light',  warm,  and  rich.  Plow 
and  harrow  thoroughly;  mark  out  furrows  five  feet 
apart ;  place  a  shovelful  of  well-rotted  manure  or  com- 
post every  three  feet  in  the  rows,  and  thoroughly  mix  it 
3 


60  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

with  earth,  raising  a  broad,  flat  hiil.  lu  tlie  center  of  this, 
with  the  aid  of  a  crow-bar,  place  a  cedar-pole  ten  feet 
long,  firmly  set,  and  about  it  plant  six  or  eight  beans, 
placing  the  eye  downward,  and  the  Avhole  barely  under 
ground.  These  should  not  be  planted  until  settled  warm 
weather,  the  twentieth  of  May  being  considered  full 
early  in  this  section.  When  the  plants  are  up  nicely,  thin 
to  three  or  four  to  a  hill,  and  as  they  advance  in  groAvth, 
train  them  to  the  poles,  bearing  in  mind  that  these,  like 
almost  all  vines  except  the  hop,  take  a  course  against  the 
sun,  or  from  right  to  left,  and  will  not  go  any  other  Avay. 

"They  may  be  forwarded  somewhat  by  planting  under 
glass  in  a  cold-frame  about  the  first  of  May,  and  transplant- 
ing when  the  second  leaves  have  formed.  When  the  form 
of  the  beans  can  be  plainly  seen  in  the  pods  they  are  ready 
for  market,  and  may  be  shipped  the  same  as  directed  for 
Bush  Beans.  If  grown  for  seed  or  for  using  iu  the  dry 
state,  they  must  remain  on  the  vines  until  the  pods  become 
nearly  dry ;  then  pick,  spread  thin  in  a  loft,  and  when 
perfectly  dry,  place  in  bags ;  thrash  carefully,  and  avoid 
heavy  blows  whereby  the  seed  might  be  split  and  spoiled. 
The  seed  is  easily  separated  from  the  chaff  by  the  wind, 
and  readily  cleaned  with  a  number  three  sieve.  Should 
there  be  any  broken  or  damaged  seeds,  they  must  be  re- 
moved by  hand.  A  quart  contains  six  hundred  beans. 
They  retain  their  vitality  two  years. 

The  poles,  if  properly  stored,  may  be  used  a  great 
many  years. 

BEET. 

The  finer  kinds  of  beet^:,  or  such  as  are  used  for  culi- 
nary purposes,  can  be  pro»fitably  grown  within  one  hun- 
dred miles  of  our  leading  markets,  or  at  twice  that 
distance  where  there  is  direct  communication  by  water. 
They  will  not  produce  as  heavily  as  the  coarser  kinds,  yet 


BEET.  51 

a  bushel  of  beets  can  be  grown  quite  as  cheaply  as  a 
bushel  of  potatoes,  and  will  yield  fourfold,  averaging 
one  year  with  another,  and  tliey  always  command  a  fair 
price  during  the  fall  and  winter  and  early  spring  months. 
Sometimes  the  prices  rule  very  high,  and  in  case  of  low 
prices  they  can  be  fed  out  or  sold  for  that  purpose  to  ad- 
vantage. It  is  astonishing  how  little  attention  is  paid  to 
the  cultivation  of  beets  for  feeding  by  the  farmers  of  this 
country  when  they  can  be  raised  with  so  little  trouble, 
and  the  larger  varieties  yield  so  enormously.  They  are 
very  nutritious  and  healthful  for  stock,  coming  in  use  as 
they  do  in  the  absence  of  all  green  or  laxative  food, 
which  is  quite  as  essential  for  stock,  especially  cattle,  as 
for  mankind. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  soil  best  adapted  to  beets 
is  a  deep,  rich,  sandy  loam.  The  land  should  be  plowed 
in  the  fall  if  possible,  and  in  the  spring  have  a  dressing 
of  at  least  twenty  two-horse  loads  of  stable-manure  to 
the  acre,  which  should  be  plowed  in,  or  one  thousand 
pounds  of  bone-flour,  or  five  hundred  pounds  of  guano, 
harrowed  in.  The  ground  should  be  deeply  plowed, 
finely  harrowed  and  back-harrowed,  and  if  not  then  free 
from  lumps,  be  raked  by  hand. 

Sowing  and  Cultivating.— The  land  being  prepared, 
stretch  the  line,  and  mark  with  the  fifteen-inch  marker 
rows  about  an  inch  and  a  half  deep.  Sow  the  seed  at  the 
rate  of  four  pounds  to  the  acre  for  main  crop,  or  six 
pounds  when  sown  very  early,  as  the  spring  frosts  may 
destroy  a  part  of  the  first  sown,  and  cover  by  raking 
lengthwise  with  the  rows.  For  early,  sow  almost  as  soon 
as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  and  from  tlien  until  the 
first  of  June.  I  have  known  them  to  do  well  sown  as 
late  as  July,  but  consider  the  first  part  of  May  the  best 
time  to  put  in  the  main  crop. 

When  the  plants  are  fairly  up,  use  the  push-hoe  close 


62  PARil-GARDENIXG    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

to  the  rows,  after  which  thin  by  hand  to  four  inches  for 
early,  or  six  inches  for  late  crop. 

Those  pulled  out  from  the  very  early  crops  are  sold  by 
gnrdeners  in  market  as  '*  beet-greens,"  and  usually  bring 
more  than  enough  to  pay  the  labor  of  thinning.  After 
thinning,  work  deeply  with  a  pronged  hoe,  and  but  little 
more  labor  will  be  required,  and  this  only  on  late  crops, 
which  may  need  a  further  push-hoeing,  and  possibly  some 
hand-weeding  again,  but  a  narrow  push-hoc  must  bo  used, 
and  care  taken  to  av^oid  cutting  the  growing  root,  which 
would  cause  it  to  burst  or  crack  open,  and  thus  be  spoiled. 
To  grow  for  feeding  stock,  the  same  preparation  of  soil  is 
essential.  Mark  out  rows  thirty  inches  apart;  sow  evenly, 
and  thin  to  ten  inches  in  the  row;  this  is,  of  course,  pre- 
suming that  the  large  varieties  will  be  grown,  they  being 
the  most  profitable  for  such  purposes.  Here  the  ground 
may  be  worked  with  a  cultivator,  and  the  thinning  done 
in  a  great  measure  by  the  hoe.  It  will  be  advantageous 
to  run  the  push-hoe  along  each  side  of  the  row  before  the 
plants  are  large  enough  to  admit  the  use  of  the  cultiva- 
tor, and  thus  destroy  the  weeds  in  the  germ.  Some  re- 
commend the  plan  of  furrowing  out  rows  three  feet  apart, 
filling  with  rotted  m.anure,  and  sowing  on  a  ridge  formed 
by  covering  the  manure  deeply  with  earth,  raking  the 
top  before  sowing.  This  plan  answers  where  the  land  has 
been  but  shallow  worked,  but  where  the  condition  of  the 
soil  will  admit  of  deep  plowing,  or  moderately  so,  the 
system  of  broadcast  manuring  and  sowing  on  a  level  sur- 
face will  be  found  the  best. 

Preparing  for  Market, — Early-sown  beets  are  usually 
pulled  when  about  two  inches  in  diameter.  All  super- 
fluous leaves  and  fibrous  roots  are  cut  away ;  the  bulbs  or 
roots  are  carefully  washed  singly  with  a  soft  brush,  and 
tied  in  flat  bunches  of  five  to  seven.  The  main  crop  is 
usually  harvested  about  the  -  middle  of  October,  some- 
times later,  but  they  must  not  be  allowed  to    become 


BEET. 


53 


frosted,  as  in  that  case  they  would  be  very  liable  to  rot. 
Twist  the  tops  off  by  hand,  and  no  further  preparation  is 
necessary  to  fit  them  for  market,  as  beets  sold  in  bulk  are 
never  washed.  They  may  be  marketed  in  bulk  at  any 
time  during  ^^the  summer  when  the  leaves  begin  to 
dry  away,  and  from  thence  until  the  following  May. 
Stored  beets,  especially  towards  spring,  will  start  to 
grow,  hence,  when  they  are  then  marketed,  the  sprouts 
must  be  removed,  and  at  the  same  stroke  of  the  hand 
remove  all  fibrous  roots,  which  will  add  much  to  their 
appearance. 

Gathering'  and  Storing. — This  process  is  the  same 
whether  intended  for  market  or  for  seed,  except,  in  the 
latter  case,  instead  of  wringing  off  the  tops  they  must  be 
cut  with  a  knife,  being  careful  to  avoid  destroying  the 
heart  or  center  germ,  as  it  is  this  which  produces  the  main 
stalk  and  best  seed.  Particular  care  should  also  be  exer- 
cised lest  they  become  in  the  least  frosted,  for  they  must 
be  kept  quite  late  in  spring,  before  setting  them  out. 
Whether  intended  for  market  or  for  seed,  select  a  dry 
day,  pull  the  beets,  laying  them  in  rows,  and  cut  or  wring 
off  the  tops,  as  the  case  may  require. 

Handle  carefully,  and  put  them  away  as  directed  in  the 
chapter  on  '*  Storing  for  Winter,"  except  such  as  may  be 
required  for  fall  sales,  which  may  be  placed  in  heaps  on 
the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  temporarily  covered  with 
leaves  and  earth. 

Seed. — Great  pains  should  be  taken  in  selecting  to  re- 
serve only  such  as  possess  the  peculiar  marks  which  dis- 
tinguish the  variety.  The  foliage  of  beets  will  assist  in  a 
great  measure  to  make  selections,  hence  it  is  well  to  go 
over  the  bed,  and  remove  all  that  show  any  signs  of  im- 
purity, before  the  main  crop  is  pulled.  To  assist  in  mak- 
ing this  selection,  I  have  described  the  foUage  of  the  lead- 
ing varieties.  Having  pulled  and  topped  the  roots  as 
above  directed,  make  the  selection  for  seed  before  they  are 


54  FAEM-GAEDENING   AND    8EED-GE0WING. 

removed  from  the  ground,  as  this  is  the  best  and  most 
convenient  time.     Handle  carefully  and  avoid  bruising. 

The  pitting,  covering,  etc.,  are  the  same  as  for  marketing* 
The  roots  for  seed-raising  should  be  set  out  as  soon  as  all 
danger  of  heavy  frost  is  j^ast,  usually  about  the  first  of 
May.  Beets,  to  produce  prime  seed  abundantly,  require 
rich  land,  and  that  which  has  been  manured  for  a  number 
of  years  is  preferable  to  highly  manuring  the  season  of 
planting.  When  the  ground  is  not  already  rich,  apply 
manure  or  fertilizers  as  directed  in  preparing  for  the  crop 
of  roots.  Plow  and  harrow  thoroughly  ;  mark  out  fur- 
rows three  feet  apart,  and  set  the  roots  one  and  a  half  to 
two  feet  apart  in  the  rows,  covering  the  whole  to  the 
crown.  The  round  varieties  can  be  set  by  making  a  hole 
with  a  dibble  at  the  bottom  of  the  furrow,  into  which  the 
tap-root  (or  tail,  as  it  is  erroneously  termed)  must  be 
placed,  and  the  earth  pressed  to  it  by  means  of  the  dibble. 
The  long  varieties  require  the  use  of  a  crowbar  for  open- 
ing a  hole,  the  dibble  being  used  to  fasten  the  earth  about 
the  root.  Care  must  be  exercised  in  handling  not  to 
break  off  or  destroy  the  young  sprouts,  which  will  have 
formed  while  the  roots  have  been  stored.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  plant  every  fifth  row  with  potatoes,  over  which  to 
walk  when  gathering  the  seed,  which  requires  cutting  two 
or  three  times,  and  by  this  method  two  rows  can  be 
reached  from  either  side,  and  cut  with  greater  ease,  with 
less  loss  from  stripping  out,  than  when  grown  in  a  solid 
body.  Keep  free  from  weeds  until  the  plants  have  at- 
tained a  hight  of  about  two  feet,  when  the  ridging  plow 
may  be  used  and  the  earth  drawn  to  the  roots  with  a  hoe. 
After  this,  in  consequence  of  the  plants  shading  the 
ground,  there  will  be  but  little  chance  for  the  weeds  to 
grow,  and  the  earth  being  over  the  roots,  and  against  the 
stalks,  is  a  great  protection  against  breaking  down  by 
wind  or  storm. 

Where  but  a  few  roots  are  set  out  to  obtain  seed  for 


BEET.  55 

private  use,  they  may  be  placed  three  feet  apart  each  way, 
and  the  growing  stalks  supported  by  stakes.  What  is 
generally  known  as  the  seed,  is  a  combination  of  from 
three  to  five  irregular  grains  of  a  fibrous  or  woody  cha- 
racter, each  containing  one  seed  proper ;  hence,  what  is 
termed  one  seed  is  in  reality  capable  of  producing  from 
three  to  five  plants. 

The  seed-bearing  plant,  when  fully  developed,  is  about 
four  feet  in  hight,  and  throws  out  numerous  branches 
from  the  base  to  the  top  of  the  main  stalk,  and  along 
these  branches,  the  entire  length,  the  seeds  are  produced, 
and  are  quite  firmly  attached  ;  the  larger  seeds  grow  at 
the  base,  and  they  gradually  become  smaller  to  the  tips. 
Pinching  the  tips  of  these  shoots  when  the  seed  is  form- 
ing has  a  tendency  to  increase  its  size  toward  the  point 
and  make  the  whole  more  uniform.  When  about  two 
thirds  of  the  seed  on  the  stalk  have  become  brown  and  par- 
tially dry,  all  such  stalks  should  be  cut,  and  it  is  some- 
times necessary  to  cut  three  different  times.  When  the 
stalks  have  been  cut  two  or  three  days,  the  seeds  will 
thrash  off  quite  readily,  but  if  allowed  to  remain  until  the 
stalks  become  dry,  these  will  break  up  and  mix  with  the 
seed,  causing  much  inconvenience  in  cleaning;  hence,  it  is 
important,  while  giving  the  seed  a  chance  to  develop, 
not  to  allow  the  stalks  to  become  over-ripe,  nor  to  be  too 
long  exposed  after  cutting.  The  seed  is  always  ripe  be- 
fore the  stalks  are  dry.  Small  lots  may  be  stripped  by 
hand,  but  a  quantity  can  best  be  removed  by  thrashing 
with  A  flail.  When  the  seeds  are  separated  from  the 
stalks,  they  should  be  spread  thinly,  in  a  loft,  for  a  week 
or  more,  after  which  they  may  be  run  thi-ough  the  fan- 
mill,  and  stored  in  barrels,  until  wanted  for  packing,  when 
they  should  again  pass  through  the  fan-mill  and  be 
finished  with  No.  10  sieve,  to  remove  the  sand  or  dust, 
picking  out  what  sticks  there  may  be,  by  haifd.  Beet 
seed  retains  its  vitality  seven  yea,rs. 


66  FAEM-GAKDENING   AND    SEED-GKOWING. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  Dark  Blood  Egyptian. — A  new  variety,  of  great 

value  for  bunching  ;  extra  early,  very  dark  blood,  flat 
at  the  top  and  bottom,  much  resembling  in  shape  the  wliite 
flat  turnip  ;  small  tap-root,  and  short,  very  dark  leaves. 

Bassano* — Extra  early;  outside  delicate  pink;  flesh 
pale  red,  sometimes  nearly  white,  and  pink  mottled  and 
veined;  leaves  pale  red,  and  red  and  green  mixed,  some- 
times entirely  pale  green,  but  this  shows  white  flesh,  and 
should  be  discarded  in  making  selections  for  seed. 

Early  Turnip-rooted. — A  cross  between  the  Bassano 
and  the  Turnip  Blood,  favoring  the  latter,  though  rather 
earlier,  but  not  so  early  as  the  former,  which,  however,  it 
entirely  supersedes  when  it  comes  to  market,  which  is 
perhaps  one  week  later ;  usually  rather  dark  red,  some- 
times with  a  perceptible  paleness,  more  noticeable  inter- 
nally than  externally,  rather  flattened  at  the  top,  and  some- 
what so  at  the  root;  prime  for  early  bunching  and  good 
for  winter  use ;  leaves  dark  red,  occasionally  streaked  or 
mottled  with  green. 

Turnip-rooted  Blood. — ^A  little  later  than  the  preced- 
ing, of  nearly  the  same  shape,  more  tapering  at  the  root; 
very  dark  blood-red ;  leaves  very  dark  red ;  the  very 
best  round  beet  for  winter  use  or  main  crop. 

Lon^  Smooth  Blood. — Long  and  smooth,  tapering  root ; 
leaves,  skin,  and  flesh  all  very  dark  red ;  grows  about  one 
half  above  ground  ;  the  very  best  winter  beet  for  market. 

Half  Loni?  or  Pine-Apple. — Evidently  a  cross  between 
the  Long  Smooth  and  Turnip  Blood  ;  rather  rounded  at 
the  top  and  tapering  to  the  root ;  leaves,  skin,  and  flesh 
very  dark  blood-red. 

The  foregoing  are  the  leading  market  varieties,  and 
below  are  mentioned  the  best  of  the  large  kinds,  such  as 
are  usually  grown  for  feeding  stock. 


BROCCOLI CABBAGES.  57 

White  Sugar* — Skin  and  flesh  white ;  leaves  pale  green ; 
long  irregular  thick  root,  growing  much  out  of  ground. 

Yellow  Sugar* — Same  as  the  preceding,  except  as  to 
color. 

Red  Mangel-wurzel.— Skin,  flesh,  and  leaves  pale  red  ; 
long,  moderately  even  in  form,  quite  thick  at  the  root,  and 
grows  much  above  ground. 

Yellow  Mangel-wurzel.— Same  as  the  above  except  as 
to  color,  and  generally  more  irregularly  formed. 

BROCCOLI. 

So  closely  allied  to  cauliflower  that  I  prefer  to  pass  it  by, 
and  merely  make  mention  here  of  the  leading  varieties — 
namely  :  White  Cape,  Purple  Cape,  and  Early  Walcheren. 
Culture  the  same  as  cauliflower. 

CABBAGES. 

This  with  market-gardeners  is  an  important  crop,  and 
with  those  about  New  York,  the  principal  one,  as  by  their 
method  of  culture  they  bring  the  crop  very  early  into 
market,  thus  commanding  good  prices,  and  land  is  cleared 
off  in  time  to  admit  of  a  second  crop  the  same  season. 
The  better  to  be  understood  by  my  readers,  and  to  do 
greater  justice  to  the  subject,  I  will  divide  it  into  two 
parts. 

Early    Cabbages. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  soil  best  adapted  for  early 
cabbages  is  a  good,  strong,  retentive  loam,  and  that  with 
a  fair  proportion  of  sand  can  be  used  to  good  advantage, 
provided  the  subsoil  is  not  too  gravelly  or  porous  ;  still  it 
is  not  advisable  to  use  very  light  soil,  nor  yet  that  which 
is  very  heavy  or  clayey,  and  which  has  a  tendency  to  pack 
3* 


58  FARM-GAKDENING  AND    SEED-GROWING. 

or  bake.  The  land  should  be  plowed  and  harrowed  in  the 
fall,  and  if  not  in  a  very  high  state  of  fertility,  a  liberal 
dressing  of  manure  or  coarse  bone  may  be  turned  under  at 
that  time  to  good  advantage. 

Plow  again  in  the  spring,  turning  under  thirty  two-horse 
loads  of  stable  manure  to  the  acre  for  wide  planting,  when 
more  is  to  be  applied  directly  to  the  plant,  to  fifty  or  sixty 
loads  for  close  cropping.  In  the  absence  of  stable-manure, 
apply  to  the  acre  one  ton  of  coarse  bone  in  the  fall,  and 
one  tone  of  bone-flour  or  one  half  a  ton  of  guano,  in  the 
spring,  harrowed  in,  or  where  only  enough  manure  can  be 
had  for  applying  direct  to  the  plants  in  wide  planting,  use 
one  half  the  quantity  of  bone  and  guano,  broadcast^  as 
above  directed.  I  much  prefer  the  plan  of  heavy  manuring 
and  close  planting  for  this  crop.  For  this  purpose  mark 
rows  thirty  inches  apart  (use  the  fifteen-inch  marker  and 
plant  on  every  other  mark),  and  set  the  plants  sixteen 
inches  in  the  rows,  which  will  require  about  thirteen  thou- 
sand plants  to  the  acre.  When  grown  wide,  the  land 
should  be  lightly  furrowed  out  three  feet  each  way,  a  half 
shovelful  of  well-rotted  manure  or  compost  placed  where 
the  furrows  cross,  and  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  by 
means  of  a  hoe,  and  the  surface  gently  pressed.  Five 
thousand  plants  will  set  an  acre  planted  in  this  way.  By 
either  method,  prepare  the  ground  immediately  preceding 
the  planting,  by  a  thorough  plowing  and  harrowing, 
and  smooth  the  surface  with  the  back  of  the  harrow. 

Sowing  Seed  and  Growing  the  Plants.  -  Cabbage 
seed  germinates  quite  readily,  and  there  is  but  little  art 
in  sowing  it;  still,  painstaking  in  preparing  the  soil, 
covering,  etc.,  thus  giving  each  seed  a  chance,  w^ill 
insure  a  greater  number  of  plants  from  a  given 
quantity  of  seed,  than  if  carelessly  sown.  To  get 
the  crop  off  early,  and  to  grow  early  cabbages  in 
perfection,  the  seed  should  be  sown  in  the  fall,  and  the 
plants  wintered  over,  as  directed  in  the  chapter  on  cold- 


CABBAGES.  59 

frames.  This  sowing  requires  some  judgment,  as  it  is 
quite  important  to  have  the  plants  of  good  size,  the  better 
to  withstand  the  winter,  and  yet  they  must  not  be  over- 
laro-e,  lest,  when  planted  out  in  the  spring,  many  of  them 
will  run  to  seed,  instead  of  producing  heads. 

About  New  York  the  plants  are  mostly  pricked  out  in 
the  cold-frames  by  or  before  the  twentieth  of  Novem- 
ber. When  cold-frames  are  not  used,  plants  may  be  had 
quite  early,  by  sowing  the  seed  in  a  hot-bed  made  as  de- 
scribed in  the  chapter  on  hot-beds,  and  using  about  three 
inches  of  earth  over  the  manure. 

But  very  little  heat  is  required  to  germinate  cabbage  seed, 
and  if  the  bed  is  very  hot,  the  plants  will  grow  up  slim 
and  spindly,  hence  great  pains  must  be  taken  to  temper 
the  bed  before  sowing,  and  give  an  abundance  of  air  while 
the  plants  are  growing,  whenever  the  weather  will  admit 
of  it.  The  work  of  airing  can  not  be  regulated  by  any 
fixed  rule,  as  hot-beds  are  made  at  a  season  of  repeated  and 
often  sudden  changes,  and  hence  they  require  almost  con- 
stant attention.  A  thermometer  set  in  the  center  of  a  bed 
should  range  from  fifty  to  sixty  degrees  for  cabbage- 
plants.  Here  we  generally  sow  in  hot-beds  about  the  first 
of  March,  which  gives  us  plants  about  the  tenth  of  April ; 
and  I  would  here  remark,*that  it  is  much  better  to  sow  the 
seed  say  six  weeks  or  more  in  advance  of  the  anticipated 
time  of  transplanting,  and  grow  them  slowly  and  strong, 
than  to  defer  sowing  until  late,  and  then  have  to  force  them 
along,  thus  making  them  weak  and  tender,  and  unable  to 
endure  the  sudden  changes  of  the  spring  weather.  It  is 
well  to  remove  the  sashes  entirely  from  the  bed  a  few 
days  before  transplanting,  leaving  the  plants  exposed 
night  and  day  (except  in  case  of  very  severe  cold  or  heavy 
storm,  when  they  may  be  temporarily  replaced),  and  thus 
harden  them  ofi",  that  the  change  may  not  be  too  great. 
The  surface  should  be  raked  level,  and  the  seed  sprinkled 
even  and  thin,  broadcast — two  ounces  being  sufficient  for 


60  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

a  four-sash  frame,  and  will  produce  about  six  thousand 
plants — covering  lightly  with  sifted  soil,  gently  pressing 
with  a  shovel,  and  sprinkling  with  lukewarm  water 
at  evening.  A  good  wetting  when  they  are  to  be 
pulled  for  transplanting  will  soften  the  ground,  and  cause 
tne  earth  to  adhere  to  the  roots,  and  be  a  general  benefit 
to  the  plants. 

Planting  and  Cultivating. — I  have  already  stated  the 
plants  should  be  set  sixteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  but 
a  variation  of  an  inch  or  two  either  way,  will  not  make 
any  material  difference.  When  desirable  to  have  them 
exact,  use  a  marked  pole,  as  directed  in  the  chapter  on 
transplanting.  Whether  wintered  in  a  cold-frame  or 
grown  in  hot-beds,  the  plants  should  be  set  out  as  early 
in  the  spring  as  circumstances  will  admit  of,  and  those 
from  the  cold-frame  may  be  transpLmted  just  as  soon  as 
the  ground  can  be  worked,  as  they  will  not  be  injured  by 
possible  subsequent  severe  weather,  provided  they  are  set 
deep  and  the  roots  firmly  fastened.  These  are  two  very 
important  points,  more  fully  explained  in  the  chapter  on 
transplanting,  and  alike  applicable  to  either  cold-frame  or 
hot-bed  plants.  The  plants  will  soon  take  root,  when  the 
harrow-cultivator  may  be  run  between  the  rows,  and  the 
ground  about  the  plants  deeply  loosened  and  made  fine, 
being  careful,  of  course,  not  to  disturb  the  roots.  Just 
before  they  begin  to  form  heads,  the  large-toothed  culti- 
vator should  pass  between  the  rows,  and  the  hoe  again 
used  as  before,  which  is  ordinarily  all  the  attention  they 
will  require. 

Cutting  and  i^Iarketing. — As  a  general  rule,  as  is  well 
known,  a  *'  cabbage  head  "  should  be  solid  to  be  marketable, 
or  in  fact  to  be  eatable,  but  about  New  York  those  who  are 
fortunate  enough  to  have  it  well  advanced  very  early,  not 
unfrequently  cut  a  few  loads  of  such  as  are  only  an  apology 
for  "  heads,"  which  bring  large  prices.     When  the  main 


CABBAGES.  61 

crop  comes  in,  it  is  important  that  the  heads  should  "be  fully- 
grown  and  solid.  Cabbages  should  always,  if  possible,  be 
cut  very  early  in  the  morning,  before  the  sun  can  wilt 
the  leaves,  as  tliey  then  come  to  market  looking  fresh 
and  plump.  Unlike  late  cabbages,  the  early  kinds  should 
be  cut  with  several  leaves  about  the  head,  which  gives 
them  a  much  larger  and  better  appearance.  When  near  a 
market  the  heads  are  loaded  in  bulk,  snugly  and  compact- 
ly, into  wagons,  and  either  sold  from  the  wagon  to  retailers 
or  left  with  a  commission  dealer  for  the  same  purpose. 
They  can  be  shipped  in  crates  or  barrels,  well  ventilated, 
but  must  not  be  long  packed,  as  they  are  very  liable  to 
heat. 

Seed* — Growing  the  seed  of  early  cabbages  is  attended 
with  serious  difficulties,  the  chief  of  which  is  to  ])roduce 
the  heads  at  a  season  entirely  adverse  to  their  nature. 

I  sow  three  separate  times,  and  as  near  as  may  be  the 
first,  tenth,  and  twentieth  of  June,  in  the  same  manner  as 
directed  for  growing  late  cabbage  plants,  except  owing  to 
the  season  I  choose  a  moist  piece  of  ground,  and  in  the 
absence  of  rain  resort  to  watering  every  evening  until 
the  plants  are  up,  and  occasionally  thereafter.  When  the 
plants  are  large  enough  to  handle,  they  may  be  set  out, 
but  at  this,  season  of  the  year  transplanting  is  not  always 
practicable,  hence  my  reason  for  making  three  different 
sowings,  in  hopes  that  we  may  be  favored  with  rain  at 
such  time  as  one  lot  or  the  other  will  be  in  condition  to 
set  out.  A  piece  of  land  on  which  has  been  grown  peas, 
spinach,  or  other  early-maturing  crop  is  used,  being 
plowed,  harrowed,  and  marked  out  all  ready  for  such  time 
as  the  rain  may  come.  The  land  is  well  manured,  broad- 
cast, for  the  first  crop  in  anticipation  of  the  second,  hence 
no  further  manuring  is  necessary,  and  in  fxct  I  have  found 
that  early  cabbages  grown  late,  in  over-rich  ground,  are 
apt  to  be  tender,  and  do  not  preserve  so  well  over  winter 
as  when  less  stimulated.    Whenever  the  weather  will  per- 


62  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

mit,  the  plants  are  set  out,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed 
for  spring  planting,  and  worked  the  same  way. 

I  always  wish  to  get  at  least  a  part  of  the  early-sown 
plants  set  out,  as  they  get  fully  headed,  and  give  a  chance 
for  a  very  choice  selection  for  stock  seed,  while  the 
second  or  last  sown,  in  consequence  of  not  being  quite  so 
hard-lieaded,  generally  winter  the  best,  but  it  requires  a 
more  experienced  eye  to  select  from  those  half-headed  than 
from  such  as  are  fully  developed. 

The  selections  must  be  made  according  to  the  color,  size, 
shape,  and  general  characteristics  of  the  variety.  About 
the  Hrst  of  November  another  plot  of  ground  is  taken — 
one  which  has  just  been  cleared  of  a  crop  and  was  well 
manured  in  the  spring,  as  I  find  that  cabbage  seed  does 
better  on  such  than  on  freshly-manured  land.  This  is  deep- 
ly plowed,  harrowed,  and  quite  deep  furrows  marked  out, 
four  feet  apart.  The  choice  cabbages  from  thQ  bed  are 
placed  in  these  furrows,  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  laid 
parallel  with  the  furrows,  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  degrees, 
always,  if  possible,  with  the  head  to  the  north,  that  the 
stalk,  which  is  the  most  tender  part,  may  be  the  better  pro- 
tected. The  earth  is  drawn  in  abundantly,  and  pressed 
over  the  root  and  stalk,  and  partially  over  the  leaves,  which 
are  gathered  about  and  over  the  head. 

Nothing  more  is  required  until  the  approach  of  severe 
weather,  when  with  plow  and  hoe  the  earth  must  be 
drawn  over  the  whole,  abundantly  over  the  stalk,  and 
firmly  pressed,  and  sufficiently  over  the  head  to  protect  it 
from  alternate  freezing  and  thawing  rather  than  from  the 
frost.  As  early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked, 
the  soil  must  be  removed  from  the  heads  by  plowing 
away,  and  carefully  using  the  hoe ;  and  the  outer  leaves  of 
the  head  proper  be  separated,  to  allow  the  heart  or  center 
germ  or  shoot  to  come  through,  being  very  careful  not  to 
injure  the  germ,  as  this  is  the  all-important  part  in  pro- 
ducing seed.     Cultivate  and  hoe,  and  when  the  plants  are 


CABBAGES.  63 

eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches  high,  throw  the  earth  to 
them  for  support;  or  what  is  better  still,  tie  to  stakes,  but 
avoid  hunching  the  branches ;  a  very  convenient  plan  is 
to  place  stakes  twelve  feet  apart  along  every  row,  and 
from  one  to  the  other  firmly  stretch  tarred  marline  or 
spun  yarn,  to  which  the  stalks  may  be  attached  by  bass- 
mat  or  other  flat  strings.  This  marline  may  be  preserved 
and  used  many  seasons. 

Another  plan  which  I  have  tried  successfully  is  to  mark 
out  deep  furrows,  four  feet  apart,  running  north  and  south, 
in  which  a  light  dressing  of  very  rotten  manure  is  placed, 
and  with  a  hoe  thoroughly  mixed  with  the  soil  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  furrow,  and  the  plants  from  the  second  or  third 
sowing,  set  therein,  eighteen  inches  apart ;  in  the  fall  all 
impure  heads  taken  out,  the  remainder,  without  being 
pulled,  bent  over  and  treated  in  all  further  respects  the 
same  as  l^y  the.  plan  above  described. 

Another  plan,  and  the  one  best  adapted  for  preserving 
solid  heads,  is  to  put  them  away  as  hereinafter  described 
for  "  late  cabbage,"  or  to  heel  them  in  thick  in  a.  cold- 
frame,  cover  with  shutters,  and  set  them  out  and  cultivate 
the  same  as  "  late  cabbage  "  for  seed,  under  which  head  I 
also  give  directions  for  harvesting  and  cleaning  the  seed, 
which  operation  is  the  same  with  early  and  late. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  of  early  cabbage  are  numer- 
ous, but  there  are  very  few  in  general  cultivation,  and 
I  will  only  notice  such  as  are  in  favor  with  market-gar- 
deners. 

Early  Jersey  Wakefield. — On  account  of  the  attention 
this  variety  is  now  attracting,  a  brief  history  of  it  may  not 
be  amiss  here.  It  was  first  grown  in  this  country  by  my 
uncle,  Francis  Brill,  then  of  Jersey  City,  N.  J.,  and  by 
him  received  from  England  under  the  name  it  still  bears, 
about  thirty  years  ago,  and  proved  to  be  the  best  early 
cabbage  of  that  time,  as  it   is  still  there,  and  wherever 


64  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

tried  in  the  vicinity  of  New  York  City,  and  is  becoming 
more  popular  every  year.  It  was  adopted  by  my  uncle,  my 
father,  and  the  few  other  gardeners  about  Jersey  City  at 
that  time,  as  the  standard  sort,  and  from  it  they  grew 
seed  from  year  to  year. 

In  the  course  of  time,  wishing  to  renew  the  stock,  they 
sent  to  Europe  direct,  as  well  as  through  the  seedsmen  of 
New  York,  for  a  fresh  supply  of  seed  of  the  Wakefield, 
but  what  they  recei^^'ed  then  and  repeatedly  since,  under 
that  name,  was  not  the  genuine  article.  In  consequence 
of  its  having  been  so  long  grown  from  the  one  stock,  it  is 
now  more  irregular  in  form  than  originally,  rather  im- 
proved in  size,  full  as  early  as  ever,  and  now  as  then  the 
favorite  with  all  Jersey  gardeners,  as  well  as  those  of  Long 
Island  and  elsewhere  about  New  York,  and  it  is  gaining 
friends  wherever  it  is  introduced. 

Head  large,  conical,  sometimes  rather  rounded  or  flat- 
tened ;  leaves  sea-green ;  stalk  short.  In  selecting  for 
seed,  take  only  such  as  have  pointed  heads  of  good  size, 
compact  leaves,  and  short  stalks. 

Early  York* — Head  of  medium  size,  roundish  ovoid, 
close,  and  well  formed,  of  a  deep  green  color;  but  few 
loose  leaves,  comparatively  smooth  on  the  surface  ;  short 
stalks. 

Lar^e  Early  York. — Very  much  the  same  as  the 
"  Early  York,"  except  being  larger ;  same  shape ;  thicker 
head. 

Early  Ox-Heart* — Head  large,  conical;  leaves  com- 
pact, light  green ;  stalk  short. 

Early  Flat  Dutch. — A  cross  between  the  Ox-Heart 
and  Large  Flat  Butch.  Heads  large,  round,  very  solid ; 
leaves  sea-green,  rather  spreading  ;  stalk  remarkably  short. 
A  fine  second  early  variety.  Plants  usually  grown  in 
hot-beds.  -  If  kept  in  cold-frames  over  winter  are  very 
liable  to  run  to  seed,  unless  they  are  small  and  bedded  late. 


CABBAGES. 


65 


Early  WinningStadt. — Second  early.  Heads  large,  com- 
pact, very  pointed ;  smooth,  bright,  glossy  green  leaves  ; 
stalk  rather  short. 

Late   Cabbages. 

They  are  not  generally  grown  by  market-gardeners  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  New  York,  as  it  would  not  pay 
tbem  near  so  well  as  the  early,  and,  moreover,  a  second 
crop  could  not  be  taken  from  the  ground  the  same  year. 
They  are,  however,  grown  extensively  on  Long  Island, 
partly  within  carting  distance  of  New  York,  and  a  con- 
siderable quantity  is. sent  in  from  different  places  by  rail- 
road and  vessels. 

The  soil  and  climate  of  Long  Island  seem  to  suit  them, 
and  some  of  the  finest  cabbages  I  ever  saw  were  grown 
in  this  section. 

In  any  farming  district  where  late  cabbages  will  suc- 
ceed well,  they  are  worthy  the  attention  of  farmers;  for 
it  not  unfrequently  happens  that  in  the  city  markets  dur- 
ing the  fall  and  winter  months  they^bring  very  high 
prices,  and  almost  always  sell  high  enough  to  insure 
profit  to  the  grower  ;  but  in  case  of  a  glut,  and  consequent 
low  prices,  they  can  be  used  for  feeding  stock,  and  are 
very  valuable  for  that  purpose. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  remarks  on  soil  in  refer- 
ence to  early  cabbage  are  equally  applicable  to  the  late 
varieties.  The  preparation  must,  however,  necessarily 
be  quite  different,  as  the  late  kinds  would  not  pay  for 
such  liberal  quantities  of  manure  as  are  bestowed  upon 
the  early  crop,  nor  yet  do  they  require  it.  Late  cabbages 
are  grown  as  a  second  crop,  following  early  potatoes, 
peas,  spinach,  etc.,  where  such  things  are  grown  for 
market,  and  succeed  admirably  on  inverted  clover-sward. 
On  clover-sward  or  other  good  land,  a  dressing  of  twenty 
two-horse  loads  of  good  stable-manure  to  the  acre,  plowed 


66  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

in,  one  thousand  pounds  of  bone-flour,  or  six  hundred 
pounds  of  guano,  harrowed  in,  will  bring  a  good  crop  ;  but 
in  the  case  of  stable-manure,  if  more  is  at  hand,  it  can  be 
used  to  advantage,  and  will  be  a  great  benefit  to  the  suc- 
ceeding crop.  Land  heavily  manured  for  the  first  crop 
will  require  but  little  more  to  bring  this  one. 

A  dressing  of  ashes  will  also  be  beneficial,  and  will 
have  a  tendency  to  destroy  the  grubs.  After  plowing, 
the  ground  should  be  well  harrowed,  smoothed  with  the 
back  of  the  harrow,  and  rows  marked  out  three  feet 
apart.  For  wide  planting,  the  ground  may  be  furrowed 
out.  and  manured  in  the  angles  as  advised  for  early  cab- 
bages. This  planting  has  to  be  done  in  midsummer — 
usually  the  first  part  of  July — and  it  is  quite  necessary  to 
have  the  ground  all  marked  out  and  ready  for  rainy 
weather,  which  at  this  season  is  apt  to  be  of  short  dura- 
tion, and  must  be  taken  advantage  of. 

Sowing  Seed  and  Growing  the  Plants.-— The  seed 
should  be  sown  the  first  part  of  May.  It  is  advisable  to 
sow  on  the  fifth  and  fifteenth  for  the  main  crop,  using 
plenty  of  seed  ea#h  time  to  be  sure  of  a  full  supply  of 
plants,  allowing  one  ounce  of  seed  for  three  thousand 
plants,  and  if  there  is  any  surplus,  there  is  generally  a 
demand  for  them,  or  at  least  enough  can  be  sold  to  pay 
the  expense  of  raising.  The  first  sown,  if  planted  early 
in  July,  will  be  headed  in  the  fall,  and  the  later  ones 
answer  for  winter  use,  as  they  keep  much  better  than  very 
hard  heads.  The  seed  may  be  sown  broadcast,  but  I  pre- 
fer to  mark  rows  ten  inches  apart,  and  an  inch  and  a  half 
deep,  on  a  piece  of  moderately  rich  light  soil,  well  pre- 
pared, in  which  the  seed  is  deposited  rather  thinly,  and 
covered  by  raking  in.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  begin 
to  break  the  soil,  sprinkle  the  bed  with  air-slaked  shell 
lime,  which  is  to  be  repeated  again  when  they  are  nicely 
up,  to  prevent  the  ravages  of  an  insect  generally  known 
as  the  cabbage  flea.     This  must  not  be  neglected,  or  the 


CABBAGES.  67 

entire  crop  may  be  speedily  destroyed,  as  they  are  very 
destructive,  and  at  times  very  numerous  at  this  season  of 
the  year.     (See  chapter  on  Insects.) 

Planting  and  Cultiyatmi^. — The  directions  given  under 
this  head  in  the  article  on  Early  Cabbages  apply  also  to 
these,  except  the  distance. 

The  rows  being  already  marked  three  feet  apart,  the 
plants  should  be  set  two  feet  in  the  rows,  requiring  seven 
thousand  two  hundred  and  sixty  to  an  acre ;  or  at  the 
angles  where  the  manure  has  been  placed  and  prepared, 
requiring  nearly  five  thousand  plants  for  the  same 
amount  of  land.  The  planting,  as  I  have  before  stated, 
should  be  done  in  wet  weather ;  but  it  frequently  happens 
that  the  rains  at  this  season  are  not  sufficient  to  thor- 
oughly wet  the  earth,  hence  we  have  to  resort  to  "  pud- 
dling," which  is  described  in  the  chapter  on  transplanting. 
They  should  be  set  out  in  July,  though  if  in  very  rich 
soil,  a  good  proportion  will  head  if  set  so  late  as  the  first 
of  August. 

It  often  happens  there  is  a  scarcity  of  cabbages  in 
market  between  the  seasons  for  late  and  early,  and  those 
who  are  far-seeing  enough  to  have  an  intermediate  crop,  do 
well  by  it.  The  Large  Flat  Dutch  is  a  good  variety  for 
this  purpose,  and  may  be  sown  at  any  time  after  the 
ground  opens  in  the  spring,  and  if  a  person  should  sow 
three  different  times,  for  instance,  the  first,  tenth,  and 
twentieth  of  April,  and  from  each  sowing  plant  a  bed 
there  would  be  a  chance  to  make  a  good  hit,  on  at  least 
one  lot,  and  do  well  on  all,  and  the  plants  would  be  ready 
at  a  time  when  a  piece  of  growing  clover  could  be 
turned  under,  and  a  good  crop  grown  with  little  or  no 
manure.  This  variety  is  also  used  for  sowing  in  hot- 
beds, and  occasionally  for  keeping  over  winter  in  cold- 
frames,  and  by  planting  early  succeeds  the  early  varieties 
when  the  market  is  not  glutted,  and  sometimes  sells  at 
very  high  prices. 


68  FAEM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

The  cultivation  of  this  variety  is  the  same  in  these 
cases  as  when  grown  for  winter. 

Cutting  and  Marketing, — The  large  or  late  kinds  of 
cabbage  should  always  be  solid,  and  their  fitness  for 
market  may  readily  be  determined  by  pressing  the  band 
on  each  head. 

They  should  be  cut  without  any  superfluous  leaves 
when  sent  to  a  city  market,  but  in  villages  where  people 
have  room  for  the  purpose,  most  persons  prefer  to  buy 
them  in  quantity  with  the  roots  and  leaves  attached,  tjiat 
they  may  be  buried  and  taken  out  as  occasion  may  re- 
quire. I  might  here  add  that  it  is  customary  for  garden- 
ers to  allow  dealers  four  heads  extra  to  every  one  hun- 
dred, and  they  in  turn  allow  thirteen  to  the  dozen. 

This  rule  applies  generally  to  all  vegetables  growing 
above  ground,  but  not  as  a  rule  to  roots  which  grow 
below. 

Storing  for  Winter. — Cabbages  for  using  or  marketing 
in  winter  may  be  put  away  the  same  as  when  intended 
for  seed,  described  hereafter,  but  a  much  easier  and  quite 
as  good  a  plan,  where  the  head  only  is  to  be  preserved,  is 
to  make  a  double  row,  setting  the  heads  close  together  on 
the  ground,  roots  upward,  throwing  one  or  two  furrows 
to  them  on  each  side,  lightly  covering  and  ridging  with  a 
spade. 

Seed, — Late  varieties  of  cabbage,  for  seed,  are  grown 
in  their  regular  season,  in  the  same  manner  as  for  market, 
and  as  a  geueral  rule  the  crop  is  more  certain  than  Avith 
the  early  kinds ;  hence,  the  stock  of  seed  is  generally 
abundant,  and  prices  are  not  so  high.  It  is  a  good  idea 
to  have  late  cabbages  planted  early,  to  make  a  choice 
selection  for  stocTc  seed ;  but  for  the  main  crop,  that  which 
is  planted  about  tlie  twentieth  of  July,  in  moderately  rich 
soil,  will  keep  the  best,  and  be  sufficiently  advanced  to 
make  a  pure  selection.  The  selections  must  be  made  ac- 
cording to  the  characteristics  of  the  variety,  the  same  as 


CABBAGES.  69 

with  the  early  kinds.  It  may  happen  that  in  cutting  cab- 
bages, either  early  or  late,  there  may  be  some  extra  choice 
heads  from  which  one  would  desire  to  grow  seed,  but 
from  the  earliness  of  the  season  and  the  ripeness  of  the 
heads  it  could  not  be  done  in  the  usual  form,  as  they 
would  not  keep  until  spring.  To  accomplish  this,  when 
the  said  heads  are  cut,  make  a  mark  with  the  knife  across 
the  top  of  the  stump,  and  afterwards  dig  all  such  stumps 
and  heel  them  in  until  fall,  when  they  may  be  bedded  the 
sanie  as  heads.  This  is  known  as  "  stump  seed,"  and 
while  no  perceptible  difference  may  be  seen  in  the  crop 
grown  from  it  one  year  only,  yet  experience  has  proven 
that  in  time  it  will  deteriorate,  and  the  only  way  to  pro- 
duce prime  cabbage-seed  is  to  grow  it  directly  from  the 
head.  I  never  put  the  heads  away  where  the  seed  is  to 
grow,  as  with  early  cabbage,  but  prefer  to  lay  them  away 
in  a  bed. 

The  latter  part  of  November  choose  a  dry"  piece  of 
ground  running  north  and  south ;  run  a  double  furrow, 
throwing  up  a  ridge  a  foot  and  a  half  high.  On  the  east 
side  of  the  ridge,  commencing  on  the  south  end,  lay  the 
cabbages  in  a  single  row,  well  up  to  the  top  of  the  ridge, 
and  packed  close  together.  While  one  man  is  laying 
them  in,  another  must  come  behind  spading  the  earth 
over  the  roots  and  stalks,  firmly  treading  it  down,  while 
still  another  follows,  throwing  more  dirt  over  the  roots, 
pressing  it  firmly  with  the  foot,  filling  well  under  the 
heads  with  fine  soil,  covering  the  root  and  stalk  about  six 
inches,  and  leaving  the  earth  in  the  form  of  a  ridge,  as  in 
the  beginning.  This  operation  is  continued  until  seven 
rows  are  in,  each  row  a  trifle  lower  than  the  preceding 
one,  so  that  when  the  whole  is  complete  there  may  be 
descent  enough  to  carry  off  the  water.  The  earth  is 
firmly  pressed  against  the  back  of  the  first  row,  fine  soil 
put  in  from  each  side  between  the  rows,  sufiicienttomake 
the  surface  even,  leaving  the  tops  of  the  heads  exposed. 


70  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

Tlie  main  point  is  to  protect  the  stalk  at  junction  with 
the  head,  as  it  is  here  the  most  sensitive  to  cold,  and  musU 
be  Avell  covered. 

The  bed  is  then  banked  up,  back,  front,  and  ends,  to  a 
depth  of  two  feet,  or  more,  and  so  left  until  cold  weather, 
when  it  must  be  covered  with  coarse  Iiay,  straw,  stalks,  or 
brush,  lightly,  not  as  a  protection  against  freezing,  but  to 
prevent  alternate  freezing  and  thawing.  As  soon  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked  in  the  spring  the  cabbages  must 
be  set  out,  the  heads  opened,  and  in  all  other  ways 
managed  as  directed  for  early  cabbages,  except  that  they 
will  not  require  space  and  earth  for  ridging,  as  those 
planted  in  the  fall.  The  rows  may  be  only  three  feet  apart, 
but  it  is  well  to  give  plenty  of  room,  to  avoid  the  intertwin- 
ing of  the  branches,  and  prevent  loss  of  seed,  by  stripping 
out  in  harvesting. " 

In  any  event  avoid  exposing  the  stalks  to  the  sun,  by 
covering  them,  as  well  as  the  roots,  with  earth.  When 
the  seed  is  ripe,  which  may  be  known  by  the  pods  turn- 
ing yellow,  and  eventually  becoming  dry,  the  stalks  must 
be  cut  off  and  laid  on  the  ground  for  a  day  or  two  to  dry. 
It  is  best  to  gather  it  when  the  pods  are  yellow,  for  if 
allowed  to  remain  until  they  are  dry,  the  seeds  lose  color 
and  shrivel  up.  It  will  be  necessary  to  make  three  cut- 
tings to  secure  a  crop  in  prime  order.  After  the  stalks 
have  lain  long  enough  to  cause  the  seed  to  shell  readily 
from  the  pods,  they  can  be  removed  on  cloths,  or  if  a  large 
quantity  is  to  be  handled  use  a  high-box  wagon,  covering 
the  sides  and  bottom  with  cloths  to  prevent  loss.  Carry 
it  to  the  thrashing  floor.  But  little  labor  will  be  required 
to  thrash  it  out ;  in  fact,  the  most  will  shell  in  the  wagon 
while  loading,  and  care  must  here  be  exercised  or  much 
may  be  lost. 

When  thrashed,  remove  the  stalks,  run  through  the  fan- 
mill,  and  lay  the  seed  away  on  cloths,  in  a  loft,  for  a 
fortnight,  to  dry,  after  which   it    may  again   be  passed 


CABBAGES. 


71 


through  the  fan-mill,  and  finally  cleaned  with  a  No.  18 
^ieve. 

Cabbage  seed  retains  its  vitality  four  years. 

Varieties. — ^As  with  the  early,  so  with  the  late  cabbage, 
the  varieties  are  numerous,  and  I  will  only  describe  such 
as  are  generally  cultivated. 

Large  Flat  Dutcll. — ^Heads  large,  very  broad,  and  fiat, 
not  very  thick  in  proportion ;  color  light  green  or  nearly 
white  at  maturity ;  outer  leaves  whitish  green,  not 
numerous,  but  somew^hat  spreading  in  rich  ground  ;  stalk 
short.  A  sub-variety  of  this,  known  as  the  "  Premium 
Flat  Dutch,"  has  heads  more  oval  at  the  top,  and  leaves 
of  dark  green.     The  former  is  preferred  by  gardeners. 

American  Drumhead. — Heads  very  large,  rounding  at 
the  top,  very  thick,  tinged  above  with  purple  ;  leaves 
dark  green,  profuse  and  spreading;  stalk  rather  long. 
Considered  the  best  variety  to  grow  for  feeding  stock. 

Bergen  Drumhead. — Heads  large,  compact,  and  round- 
ing at  the  top ;  leaves  rather  small,  compact,  and,  as  well 
as  the  head,  distinctly  marked  with  purple ;  stalk  short. 
A  valuable  variety  for  keeping  over  winter. 

Crreen  Curled  Savoy. — Head  small,  yellowish  green, 
very  compact  and  solid,  nearly  round,  a  little  pointed  at 
the  top  ;  leaves  small,  few,  and  compact,  dark  green ; 
stalk  short.  May  be  planted  closer  than  the  Drumheads 
or  Flat  Dutch. 

Drumhead  Savoy. — Similar  to  the  above  in  most  re- 
spects ;  head  large,  and  flattened  at  the  top  ;  leaves  rather 
more  spreading.  The  Savoys  are  the  best  keepers  and  de- 
cidedly the  finest  flavored  of  all  cabbages,  not  as  exten- 
sively grown  as  their  good  qualities  warrant,  but  gain- 
ing popularity  every  year. 

Red  Dutch.  —  Head  medium  size,  round,  extremely 
solid  ;  leaves  few,  and,  like  the  head,  in  color  very  dark 
red  or  purple ;  stalk  moderately  short.     Used  for  pickling. 


72  FAEM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING.  , 

and  for  this  purpose  usually  in  fair  demand,  and  prime 
heads  always  command  good  prices. 

Turnip-rooted  or  Kohl-Rabi. — This  is  intermediate 
between  the  cabbage  and  turnip,  and  though  classed  with 
the  former  has  more  the  appearance  of  the  latter.  The 
stalk  just  above  the  ground  swells  out,  forming  a  round 
fleshy  bulb,  from  which  the  leaves  start  separately,  and 
the  whole  has  much  the  appearance  of  a  Ruta-Baga  turnip. 
It  can  be  sown  in  cold-frames  as  soon  as  the  cabbage 
plants  are  removed,  and  transplanted  to  the  open  ground 
when  large  enough  to  liandle,  about  eighteen  inches  apart 
each  way.  For  late  crop  they  are  sown  in  June,  and 
transplanted  as  above,  or  may  be  sown  in  rows  and 
thinned  out,  which  is  preferable  to  transplanting  in  hot 
weather.  In  either  case  they  require  rich  soil,  and  to  be 
well  worked.  In  marketing,  the  root  and  superfluous 
leaves  are  cut  away,  and  three  or  four  bulbs  tied  in  a  flat 
bunch. 

The  seed  is  obtained  by  preserving  the  bulbs  and  roots 
over  winter  in  a  cellar  or  pit,  and  transplanting  in  the 
spring,  cultivating  the  same  as  directed  for  Ruta-Baga. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

"Where  this  vegetable  does  well,  there  is  certainly  no 
crop  which  will  pay  a  larger  profit.  For  the  past  two 
years  the  farmers  of  the  east  end  of  Long  Island,  espe- 
cially about  the  village  of  Mattituck,  have  planted  largely 
of  cauliflower,  being  incited  by  the  successful  experiments 
of  some  who  have  removed  here  from  the  west  end,  who 
were  formerly  engaged  in  growing  vegetables  for  New 
York  markets.  The  past  season  the  crop  has  succeeded 
admirably,  and  large  profits  have  been  realized  by  growers 
in  this  vicinity,  and  this  by  men  many  of  whom  are  inex- 
perienced in  the  cultivation  of  this  or  any  other  vegetable 
for  market,  and  moreover  the  most  of  it  was  grown  at  the 


CAULIFLOWER.  73 

worst  possible  season  of  the  year.  As  a  general  rule  cau- 
liflowers do  not  succeed  well  on  old  land,  and  much  of 
the  land  hereabouts  is  new,  and  but  very  little  of  it  in- 
deed has  ever  been  used  for  cabbages  or  anything  of  this 
nature.  But,  beyond  a  doubt,  it  is  the  humid,  saline  at- 
mosphere of  this  section,  which  makes  the  cultivation  of 
this  vegetable  a  success.  Protracted  drouths  are  here  al- 
most unknown,  and  even  during  the  temporary  absence  of 
rain  in  the  summer  months,  the  air  does  not  seem  so  dry 
and  withering,  so  to  speak,  as  in  sections  more  remote 
from  the  ocean,  the  Sound,  and  the  great  salt-water  Ipays 
by  which  we  are  surrounded. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — Cauliflowers  require  a  deep, 
strong,  and  rich  soil  to  be  grown  in  perfection,  and  that 
Avhich  has  been  recently  broken  up,  or  at  least  upon  which 
no  cabbages,  turnips,  nor  anything  of  this  nature  has  been 
grown,  or  has  been  for  some  time  seeded  down,  is  prefer- 
able to  land  long  tilled.  The  soil  should  be  prepared  and 
the  crop  cultivated  as  directed  for  early  cabbages.  The 
early  dwarf  varieties  may  be  set  thirty  by  eighteen  inches, 
but  the  leading  growers  here  seem  to  think  they  will  not 
blight  so  readily  when  planted  wide,  and  recommend  set- 
ting the  early  sorts  three  feet  and  the  late  ones  four  feet 
apart  each  way.  They,  however,  do  not  sow  until  spring, 
and  if  the  plants  are  kept  over  in  cold-frames,  and  trans- 
planted early,  as  they  should  be,  the  dwarf  kinds  can  be 
set  out  at  the  first-named  distance.  The  great  drawback 
to  the  successful  cultivation  of  this  vegetable  in  most 
parts  of  our  country,  is  undoubtedly  the  heat  and  drouth 
of  our  summers,  hence  it  is  best  to  plant  very  early  to  get 
ahead  of  the  heat,  or  otherwise  at  such  time  as  will  bring 
the  heading  after  the  intense  heat  is  past.  To  accomplish 
the  first,  sow  in  the  fall  and  keep  the  plants  over  winter 
as  directed  in  the  chapter  on  cold-frames,  and  treat  after- 
wards the  same  as  directed  for  early  cabbage.  The  seed 
of  the  late  varieties  may  not  be  sown  until  near  the  first 
4 


74  FAEM-GABDENING    AND    SEED-GBOWING. 

of  June,  then  in  tlic  manner  directed  for  sowing  seed  of 
late  cabbages,  and  the  after-cultivation  is  similar  to  that  for 
this  crop.  Extra  manuring  will,  however,  be  very  beneficial. 
"When  the  cold-frame  is  not  at  command  sow  in  early  hot- 
bed, the  same  as  directed  for  early  cabbages,  and  endea- 
vor to  have  the  plants  grown  and  hardened  by  the  time 
the  ground  is  fit  to  work,  and  get  them  out  as  early  as 
practicable.  ^ 

Plants  may  also  be  grown  by  sowing  in  the  open  air,  as 
soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked ;  but  in  the  latter  case, 
the  heads  will  be  forming  at  midsummer,  and  there  are 
few  sections  where  they  will  do  well  at  this  season  of  the 
year. 

Late  cauliflowers  which  have  not  j^erfected  their  heads, 
at  the  approach  of  frost  may  be  taken  up  and  thickly 
planted  in  a  forcing-pit,  under  sashes.  Here,  by  watering, 
airing,  and  good  attention,  good  heads  may  be  had  until 
mid- winter. 

Marketing! — Cauliflowers  are  sent  from  here  to  New 
York  by  railroad,  and  generally  packed  in  barrels,  but  I 
believe  latticed  boxes  of  moderate  and  uniform  size  would 
be  preferable.  It  is  advisable  to  have  them  as  large  and 
fully  developed  as  possible,  and  yet  avoid  letting  them 
burst  out  or  start  to  seed. 

They  should  be  cut  the  same  as  a  head  of  early  cabbage, 
and  the  outer  leaves  trimmed  off  evenly,  nearly  or  quite 
down  to  the  head,  that  the  latter  may  be  completely  ex- 
posed, and  pack  so  that  they  may  not  get  bruised. 

Seed, — The  seed  is  mainly  procured  from  Europe,  and 
there  is  but  little  grown  in  this  country,  from  the  fact  that 
our  summers  are  too  hot  for  it. 

If  planted  very  early  it  will  blossom,  and  some  seed  will 
set  under  favorable  circumstances,  but  the  surest  way  is 
to  sow  in  July,  transplant,  and  keep  the  partially-grown 
heads  over  winter  in  a  cold-frame  or  cellar,  and  set  them 


CAEKOT.  75 

out  early  in  the  spring,  something  similar  to  our  treat- 
ment of  early  cabbages  for  the  same  purpose. 

Varieties. — The  Early  Erfurt  and  Early  Paris  are  used 
for  first  crop  ;  the  Nonpareil  and  Half-early  Paris  for  suc- 
cession, and  tlie  Le  Normand  and  Walcheren  for  late. 

CARROT. 

This  is  somewhat  extensively  grown  by  market-garden- 
ers, and  is  a  valuable  crop  for  the  farm-gardener  as  well, 
as  it  can  be  shipped  to  distant  markets,  and  besides  is 
very  useful  for  feeding,  especially  for  horses  and  colts,  being 
somewhat  laxative,  assisting  digestion,  promoting  health- 
falness,  and  adding  much  to  the  appearance  of  the  ani- 
mal. The  demand  for  carrots  in  cities  for  feeding  purposes 
is  yearly  increasing,  and  they  bring  remunerative  prices. 
In  view  of  these  facts,  considering  the  comparative  ease 
with  which  they  can  be  grown,  too  much  value  can  not  be 
placed  on  this  crop. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  carrot  succeeds  best  in  a 
loamy  soil,  rather  light  than  otherwise,  and  may  be  grown 
in  such  as  is  generally  termed  sandy  land.  It  does 
not  require  over-rich  soil,  and  will  do  full  as  well  on 
land  well  manured  the  previous  year  as  when  the 
manure  is  applied  at  the  time  of  sowing.  Twenty  two- 
horse  loads  of  stable-manure  to  the  acre,  broadcast,  plowed 
in,  or  one  thousand  pounds  of  bone-flour,  or  five  hundred 
pounds  of  guano,  harrowed  in,  will,  in  naturally  good  soil, 
be  sufiicient.  The  land  should  be  deeply  plowed,  finely 
and  thoroughly  harrowed,  smoothed  with  the  back  of  the 
harrow,  and  if  not  then  free  from  lumps  raked  by  hand. 

Sowing  and  Cultivating. — The  seed  should  be  sown  im- 
mediately after  the  land  is  prepared,  that  it  may  come  in 
contact  with  the  natural  moisture,  and  the  more  readily 
germinate.  For  garden  culture  the  rows  should  be  marked 
out  fifteen  inches  apart,  one  and  a  half  inch  deep,  and  the 


76  FAEM-GAEDEXIXG    AND    SEED-GEOAVIXG. 

entire  working  done  by  hand,  but  where  land  is  plenty 
tliey  may  be  double  that  distance,  and  worked  with  a  cul- 
tivator. Ill  the  former  case  the  seed  should  be  sown  quite 
thick,  and  covered  by  raking  in.  As  soon  as  the  rows  can 
be  traced,  use  a  push-hoe,  cutting  close  to  the  plants,  and 
when  nicely  up,  they  must  be  thinned  to  three  inches 
apart,  and,  of  course,  all  weeds  removed  from  the  rows  ;  a 
fortnight  after  the  soil  should  be  loosened  by  deep  hoeing, 
and  later  the  push-hoe  may  be  used,  and  such  weeds  in 
the  rows  as  were  previously  overlooked  be  pulled  by  hand. 
In  the  latter  case  they  are  seldom  thinned,  except  by  oc- 
casionally cutting  out  a  bunch  with  one  corner  of  the  hoe, 
and  by  this  plan  the  seed  must  be  thinly  sown,  and  great 
pains  taken  in  preparing  the  soil  and  covering  the  seed, 
lest  it  will  not  come  up  even.  I  would  advise  in  either 
case  that  the  seed  be  sown  thick  (as  the  germ  is  weak, 
and  does  not  always  come  up  well  when  sown  thin),  and 
afterwards  thinned  by  hand,  leaving  the  plants  equi-distant, 
by  which  means,  when  harvested,  the  roots  will  be  more 
imiform  in  size,  and  the  crop  enough  heavier  to  repay  the 
extra  labor.  When  grown  wide  the  push-hoe  may  be 
used  to  advantage  along  the  rows  before  the  plants  are 
large  enough  to  admit  using  the  cultivator.  All  subse- 
quent working  can  be  done  by  horse  and  hoe,  twice  going 
over  being  sufficient  in  clean  land ;  and  I  would  here  add, 
that  crops  of  this  kind  should  never  be  sown  where  foul 
seed  and  weeds  abound.  For  early,  the  seed  may  be  sown 
as  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  in  the  spring,  and 
for  main  crop  any  time  until  July. 

Gardeners  generally  sow  in  May,  following  a  crop 
of  spinach,  sprouts,  radishes,  etc.  From  two  to  four 
pounds  of  seed  will  be  required  to  an  acre,  according  to 
the  distance  between  the  rows. 

Preparing  for  Market. — Early-sown  carrots  arc  imlled 
when  half-grown,  trimmed,  washed,  and  tied  in  flat 
"bunches  of  from  four  to  six. 


CAEROT.  77 

The  main  crop  is  sold  by  the  barrel,  and  the  only  pre- 
paration necessary  is  to  remove  all  fibrous  roots,  and  when 
tliey  have  been  stored,  the  sprouts  must  be  cut  off,  and 
retail  dealers  prefer  to  have  them  washed.  When  sold 
for  feeding  or  shipping  to  a  distance,  they  must  be  dry, 
as  they  will  keep  much  better. 

Gatliering  and  Storing. — The  roots  can  be  taken  up 
with  a  spade,  but  the  quickest  plan  is  to  run  a  plow  deeply 
beside  the  row,  and,  placing  the  spade  back  of  the  row, 
they  can  be  quite  easily  pried  out.  Whether  for  market- 
ing or  for  seed  the  method  of  storing  is  the  same,  and 
should  be  done  according  to  directions  given  in  the 
chapter  on  storing  for  winter. 

The  general  treatment  is  the  same  as  for  beets,  except 
that  the  tops  can  be  cut  oif  to  better  advantage  than  by 
twisting — the  same  care  is  necessary  to  avoid  cutting  the 
hearts,  when  the  roots  are  intended  for  seed.  The  middle 
of  November  is  quite  as  late  as  the  crop  can  with  safety 
be  left  in  the  ground,  although  the  roots  will  not  be  ma- 
terially injured  by  light  freezing  before  they  are  taken  out. 

Seed« — Pains  must  be  taken  to  make  selections  for  seed, 
true  to  the  variety,  which  may  be  done  as  directed  for 
beets.  The  seed  does  best  in  a  rather  strong  loam,  moder- 
ately rich.  After  plowing  and  harrowing,  make  rows 
three  feet  apart  with  the  marker,  along  which  with  a 
crowbar  make  holes  eighteen  inches  apart ;  place  the  roots 
therein,  the  crowns  level  with  the  surface,  fastening  the 
earth  firmly  against  them  with  a  dibble.  They  should  be 
set  out  about  the  middle  of  April  or  as  soon  as  all  danger 
of  very  severe  freezing  is  past. 

The  after-culture  is  the  same  as  for  beets,  except  that 
ridging  is  unnecessary,  and  the  same  plan  of  planting 
every  fifth  row  with  potatoes  will  facilitate  the  gathering 
of  the  seed.  The  seeds  are  produced  in  heads  or  clusters 
at  the  extremities  of  the  branches,  and  ripen  unevenly, 
hence  they  require  repeated  cuttings.     When  ripe,  which 


78  FAKM-GARDEXING    AND    SEED-GKOWING. 

maybe  known  by  the  seed  changing  to  a  brown  color  and 
the  branches  commencing  to  dry,  the  heads  must  be  cut 
with  shears,  gathered  into  a  barrel,  carried  to  the  loft,  and 
spread  over  the  floor.  When  the  crop  has  all  been 
gathered  and  the  whole  become  thoroughly  dry,  the 
heads  can  be  removed  to  the  thrashing  floor,  and  thrashed 
with  a  flail,  only  hard  enough  to  separate  the  seed  from 
the  small  sticks  which  support  them^  and  avoid  as  much 
as  possible  breaking  these  sticks,  in  order  to  make  the 
cleaning  more  easy.  When  thrashed,  separate  the  coarser 
sticks  from  the  seed  with  a  Ko.  4,  and  again  with  a  No.  6 
sieve,  rubbing  the  larger  seeds  through  with  the  hand ; 
place  the  seed  thinly  on  a  large  cloth,  exposed  to  the  sun, 
and  after  it  has  lain  so  for  five  or  six  hours,  set  a  barrel  in 
the  center ;  on  this  place  a  No.  8  sieve,  through  which 
pass  the  seed  by  rubbing  with  the  hand,  throwing  out  the 
sticks  as  they  accumulate  in  the  sieve.  '  Repeat  this  opera- 
tion the  following  day,  this  time  using  No.  10  sieve, 
which  will  remove  the  furze  or  beard,  when  it  may  be 
finally  cleaned  by  passing  twice  through  the  fan-mill,  and 
finished  by  No.  24  sieve.  But  a  very  few  years  ago  it 
was  believed  that  the  removal  of  the  furze  injured  the 
seed,  and  it  was  carefully  picked  out  by  hand,  but  expe- 
rience has  proved  to  the  contrary,  and  now  not  a  pound 
of  seed  is  sold  in  any  seed  store  in  this  country  but  that 
which  is  rubbed  clean,  in  which  condition  it  is  more  easily 
handled  and  can  bo  more  easily  and  evenly  sown. 
Carrot  seed  retains  its  vitality  two  years. 

Varieties. — There  are  but  two  distinct  varieties  much 
grown  for  marketing. 

Early  Horn.  —  This  is  grown  principally  -for  early 
bunching.  For  main  crop,  in  very  shallow  soils,  it  could 
be  grown  to  better  advantage  than  the  long  varieties, 
though  it  would  not  be  so  salable,  except  for  feeding  pur- 
poses.    Hoot  about  six  inches  long,  quite  thick,  and  taper- 


C£LEKY.  79 

ing  abruptly  at  the  bottom  ;  skin  and  flesh  orange  yellow; 
foliage  small. 

Long  Orange  I — This  is  the  universal  favorite  in  this 
country  for  marketing  or  feeding.  Root  long  and  taper- 
ing ;  skin  and  flesh  orange-yellow ;  foliage  strong. 

CELERY. 

This  with  market  -  gardeners — especially  those  about 
New  York — ^is  one  of  the  main  crops,  and  hundreds  of 
thousands  of  roots  are  annually  grown.  It  is  not  a  very 
good  article  for  shipping  as  usually  prepared  for  market, 
but  considerable  quantities  are  shipped  as  taken  from  the 
ground. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — Celery  will  do  well  in  any  soil 
between  sand  and  clay,  provided  it  is  made  very  rich  and 
thoroughly  worked. 

It  is  grown  by  market-gardeners  as  a  second  crop,  after 
cabbages,  onions,  etc.,  which  are  always  very  heavily 
manured  in  the  spring,  and  enough  manure  is  left  in  the 
soil  to  bring  through  the  crop  of  celery,  so  that  it  is 
planted  without  further  manuring ;  and  in  fact,  applica- 
tions of  manure  immediately  preceding  this  crop  have  a 
tendency  to  cause  the  leaves  to  rust,  damaging  and  even 
destroying  the  celery  for  marketing.  The  method  of 
growing  celery  at  the  present  time  is  greatly  simplified 
over  the  old  style.  Then,  deep  trenches  were  dug  out, 
manure  spaded  in,  and  much  labor  bestowed,  uselessly,  as 
a  comparison  with  the  modern  plan  will  show.  After  the 
first  crop  is  removed,  the  land  should  be  cleared  of  all 
weeds  and  refuse,  deej^ly  plowed,  harrowed  fine,  and 
smoothed  off,  and  rows  made  with  the  marker  three  feet 
apart  for  the  dwarf,  and  four  feet  for  the  larger  kinds. 
These  rows  should  be  sunk  an  inch  or  two,  and  made  even 
by  the  face  of  a  hoe-blade  drawn  along,  thus  leaving  a 
broad  and  level  surface  to  receive  the  plants. 


80  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

This  preparation,  as  in  the  case  of  land  for  late  cabbages, 
must  be  made  in  anticipation  of  rain,  as  the  transplanting 
is  done  at  midsummer,  when  it  not  unfrequently  happens 
there  is  but  little  weather  suited  to  this  work ;  hence, 
everything  must  be  in  readiness  to  take  advantage  of  the 
first  shower. 

Sowiog  Seed  and  Growing  Plants. — The  seed  may  be 

sown  in  a  hot-bed  or  cold-frame,  if  plants  arc  desired  early, 
but  for  main  crop  it  must  be  sown  in  the  open  air,  as 
early  in  the  spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  Select 
a  piece  of  rich,  mellow  soil,  a  little  moist  than  otherwise ; 
plow  a  bed  four  to  six  feet  wide,  and  any  length  re- 
quired ;  spade  this  over,  mixing  in  fine  well-rotted  manure ; 
make  the  soil  fine,  rake  with  a  steel  rake,  making  the  sur- 
face level  and  entirely  free  from  lumps  or  stones. 

In  sowing,  use  a  board  eight  or  nine  inches  broad,  and  as 
long  as  the  bed  is  wide  ;  lay  the  board  across  the  bed,  and 
with  a  small  stick  or  the  point  of  a  dibble  make  a  shallow 
mark  on  each  side  of  it,  in  which  deposit  the  seed  with 
the  thumb  and  finger,  thinly  and  evenly ;  turn  the  board 
over  twice,  again  mark  and  sow,  and  so  proceed  until  the 
bed  is  sown ;  then  from  each  side,  reaching  half-way  over 
the  bed,  draw  the  back  of  a  spade  over  each  row,  at  the 
same  time  pressing  the  soil ;  and  this  is  all  the  covering 
required. 

If  the  weather  is  dry  an  occasional  watering  at  evening 
will  be  beneficial. 

An  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  six  thousand  plants.  As 
soon  as  the  plants  appear,  carefully  hoe  them,  and  remove 
all  weeds  from  the  rows ;  twice  hoeing  and  weeding  will 
usually  sufiice,  but  do  not  allow  the  weeds  to  get  the  least 
start.  Should  the  plants  be  large  enough  to  set  out  be- 
fore the  ground  is  ready  to  receive  them,  the  tops  may  be 
shorn  off,  which  will  make  them  stouter  and  prevent 
them  from  growing  spindling. 

Planting  and  Cultiyating. — ^During  the  month  of  July, 


CELEEY.  81 

when  the  weather  is  suitable,  the  plants  should  be  set  out 
six  inches  apart  in  the  rows  with  a  dibble,  pressing  the 
earth  firmly  to  the  roots,  and  carefully  avoid  burying  the 
hearts.  For  an  acre,  about  twenty-nine  thousand  plants 
are  required  at  three  feet,  and  about  twenty-two  thousand 
at  four  feet,  between  the  rows.  The  plants  must  be  care- 
fully pulled  from  the  bed,  held  evenly  in  one  hand  until 
it  is  full,  when  the  points  of  the  roots  and  the  tops  of  the 
leaves  should  be  cut  off. 

The  object  of  this  is  to  stiffen  the  root,  making  the 
work  of  trahsplanting  the  more  rapid,  and  causing  the 
young  rootlets  to  form  cjfuicker,  and  by  trimming  the 
leaves  they  do  not  wilt  and  fall  over  so  easily  as  when 
whole.  The  outer  leaves  eventually  die  away,  as  new 
ones  arc  formed  from  the  heart.  To  facilitate  operations, 
one  man  or  a  stout  boy  should  be  in  advance  of  the 
planters  with  a  basket  of  plants,  handing  them  out  as 
tliey  are  wanted,  and  another  should  j)ull  and  prepare 
the  plants.  When  transplanted  in  partially  moist  ground, 
as  after  a  light  shower,  it  is  advisable  to  "puddle"  the 
roots  as  directed  in  the  chapter  on  transplanting.  In  a 
few  days  the  plants  will  have  taken  root,  when  the  earth 
may  be  stirred  by  a  fine  rake,  drawing  it  diagonally  from 
the  rows,  thus  not  only  loosening  the  soil,  but  destroying 
one  crop  of  weeds,  the  seeds  of  which  will  have  already 
started.  A  week  or  so  later,  the  push-hoe  may  be  run  on 
each  side  of  the  rows,  and  the  earth  between  stirred  by 
the  harrow-toothed  cultivator.  When  the  plants  get 
fairly  started,  the  broad-toothed  cultivator  may  be  used, 
and  the  ground  around  the  plants  worked  with  a  hoe,  re- 
moving all  weeds. 

The  growing  of  celery  is  at  a  season  when  the  weed 

known  as  "  purslane "  grows  rapidly,  and  if  this  once 

gets  a  start,  it  will  be  almost  impossible  to  check  it ; 

hence,  keeping  the  ground  constantly  stirred  is  of  great 

importance.     As  the  plants  advance  in  growth,  the  earth 
41c 


83  FAEM-GAEDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

must  be  gradually  drawn  to  them,  and  when  they  are 
about  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  high,  a  light  furrow  can  be 
thrown  toward  them  on  each  side  preparatory  to  "hand- 
ling." This  is  done  by  firmly  grasping  the  leaves  in  one 
hand,  and  drawing  the  fine  soil  to  them  with  the  other, 
pressing  it  against  the  plant,  being  careful  always  not  to 
allow  the  earth  to  come  in  contact  with  the  heart.  Fol- 
low with  the  hoe,  and  draw  the  fine  earth  well  around 
the  plants.  This  operation  causes  the  plants  to  grow 
upright  and  straight,  which  is  of  importance  when  they 
come  to  be  stored.  When  celery  is  grown  early  for  using 
in  the  feill,  the  same  cultivation  is  required,  and  in  addi- 
tion "banking"  must  be  performed.  This  follows  the 
earthing-up  last  described  as  soon  as  the  leaves  have 
grown  out  and  commenced  spreading  again.  It  must  bo 
done  when  the  soil  is  moist  enough  to  compact  readily. 

With  a  spade,  cut  away  the  earth  nearly  perpendicu- 
larly about  twelve  or  fifteen  inches  from  the  plants, 
throwing  up  the  soil  against  the  plants,  catching  it  by 
quickly  turning  the  spade,  and  pressing  it  firmly.  The 
sides  may  thus  be  run  up  or  "  banked  "  at  intervals,  as 
the  leaves  grow,  working  the  soil  about  the  leaves  by  the 
hand,  and  gently  pressing  until  the  plants  have  grown  to 
full  length,  or  are  sufficiently  "blanched  "  below  to  be  fit 
to  use. 

This  is  virtually  overground  trenching,  and  serves  to 
whiten  or  "blanch  "  the  leaves.  Trenching,  though  once 
extensively  practised,  is  now  only  used  to  a  limited  ex- 
tent among  market-gardeners,  and  to  produce  a  small 
quantity  early.  In  growing  for  seed,  the  same  cultivation 
is  necessary  as  for  market,  except  that  as  the  roots  have 
to  be  kept  late  the  following  spring,  they  may  be  planted 
as  late  as  the  first  of  August,  and  not  blanched,  but 
merely  worked  up  enough  to  make  the  stalks  upright. 

Preparing  for  Market. — That  which  has  been  "  banked 


CELERY.  83 

up  "  and  that  "  earthed  up  "  pretty  high  will  be  market- 
able during  tlie  fall  or  early  winter. 

The  earth  must  be  removed,  the  plants  carefully  lifted 
with  a  spade,  and  carried  to  the  "  market-house." 

Remove  the  outer  leaves,  and  on  one  side  of  the  plant 
break  them  away  sufficiently  to  well  expose  the  heart. 

Cut  away  the  small  roots,  and  square  the  main  root, 
leaving  the  end  rather  thick,  the  better  to  hold  the  string ; 
wash  with  a  soft  brush,  having  long  bristles  at  the  ends, 
so  as  to  work  well  in  among  the  leaves.  In  tying,  select 
the  requisite  number  of  roots  for  a  bunch — from  three  to 
six ;  usually  four  in  the  fall,  and  five  late  in  the  winter ; 
lay  them  out  to  form  a  good-shaped  bunch,  always  keep- 
ing uppermost  that  side  of  each  root  which  has  the  heart 
most  exposed.  Tie  a  string  firmly  around  the  root  of 
one,  then  around  the  next,  and  so  on  until  the  whole  are 
tied  together ;  trim  the  points  of  the  roots  even,  grasp 
the  leaves  in  the  hand,  and  around  them  near  the  tips  tie 
a  string,  always  bending  the  outer  leaves  to  give  the 
bunch  a  spreading  appearance.  Place  one  dozen  in  a  pile, 
for  convenience  in  handling.  The  best  of  the  outer 
leaves,  and  in  winter  such  roots  as  are  not  large  enough 
for  flat  bunching,  may  be  tied  in  round  bunches,  and  are 
usually  sold  under  the  name  of  "  soup-celery."  Celery 
which  has  been  stored  should  be  prepared  in  the  manner 
aboA^e  described,  but  generally  more  roots  will  be  re- 
quired for  a  bunch,  and  the  bunches  will  not  make  so 
nice  an  appearance  unless  unusually  well  kept,  but  it  is 
more  thoroughly  blanched  and  more  eatable,  and  conse- 
quently in  greater  demand,  especially  about  the  holidays. 

In  sending  to  market,  it  should  be  well  protected  in 
cold  weather,  as  freezing  after  blanching  will  destroy  the 
color  and  damage  the  sale. 

Market-gardeners  generally  use  large  boxes  lined  with 
straw  mats,  and  covered  with  sail-cloth,  in  which  they 
place  the  celery  to  be  conveyed  to  market. 


84  FAEM-GAEDEXING    AND    SEED-GEOWING. 

Storing  for  Market. — Celery  will  not  be  injured  by 
light  frosts,  but  lieavy  freezing  is  very  injurious,  and  it  is 
well  to  begin  the  storing  of  this  crop  in  good  season. 
About  the  first  of  November  the  first  may  be  put  away, 
and  small  lots  at  intervals,  completing  the  whole  by  the 
first  of  December,  The  object  of  this  is  to  have  it  market- 
able in  succession,  the  first  stored  usually  being  the  first 
blanched,  and  so  on.  Celery  in  storing  should  only  bo 
handled  when  dry,  and  never  put  away  while  it  is  frozen. 
It  sometimes  happens  at  the  season  for  storing  that  the 
nights  arc  very  frosty,  thus  preventing  handling  earli/ tho 
following  day.  To  overcome  this,  dig  the  roots  in  the 
afternoon ;  stack  them  along  the  trench,  tops  outside,  and 
cover  with  mats  or  cloths,  and  they  may  be  put  in  the 
trenches  as  early  as  convenient  the  next  morning. 

Dig  a  trench  the  width  of  the  spade  as  deep  as  the 
celery  is  high,  and  any  length  required ;  run  a  plow  on 
each  side  of  the  rows,  and  with  a  spade  carefully  lift  the 
plants;  place  them  perpendicularly  in  the  trench,  stowing 
them  compactly ;  afterwards,  at  intervals,  press  fine  earth 
down  beside  and  up  to  the  tops  of  the  leaves,  and  by  cold 
weather  have  the  whole  ridge  formed,  the  more  readily  to 
carry  away  the  water.  The  covering  of  the  trench  should 
be  gradual,  to  prevent  heating,  but  when  complete  and 
the  ground  is  frozen  over,  put  on  sufiicient  coarse  manure 
to  prevent  seve unfreezing ;  this  can  be  readily  removed, 
and  the  roots  quite  easily  taken  out  when  wanted. 

Seed, — Selections  should  be  made  according  to  the 
peculiar  points  of  the  variety,  the  object  being  to  secure 
such  as  are  perfectly  solid  in  the  stems,  and  with  an 
abundance  of  solid  heart-leaves. 

The  storing  is  the  same  as  when  designed  for  market, 
but  as  it  must  be  kept  until  quite  late  in  the  spring  it  is 
an  object  to  keep  it  dry,  and  this  can  be  done  in  a  great 
measure  by  nailing  common  boards  together  in  the  shape 
of  a  V,  and  inverting  them   over  the  trench,  forming  a 


CELERY.  85 

roof,  and  covering  the  whole  with  manure.  It  is  advisable 
to  store  celery  for  seed  in  very  dry  soil.  The  chances, 
even  at  the  best,  are  that  many  which  may  appear  sound 
in  the  spring,  will  decay  when  transplanted ;  hence  it  is 
advisable  to  bed  them  quite  thickly  in  a  cold-frame  as  soon 
as  one  can  be  spared.  They  must  here  be  partially  shaded 
for  a  few  days,  gradually  hardened  off,  though  not  al- 
lowed to  freeze,  and  about  the  first  of  May  such  as  prove 
sound  should  be  planted  out. 

Use  good  land  for  growing  celery  seed.  Plow  and  har- 
row well,  giving  a  liberal  dressing  of  well-rotted  stable- 
manure,  unless  the  soil  is  already  very  rich.  Mark  out 
light  furrows  four  feet  apart;  with  a  trowel  set  the  roots 
eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  rows,  pressing  the  earth  about 
the  root,  but  leaving  the  heart  exposed ;  keep  free  from 
weeds  by  tlie  use  of  the  cultivator  and  hoe,  and  at  the 
last  working  slightly  ridge  about  the  plants.  Celery  pro- 
duces seed  quite  profusely,  in  small  clusters,  at  the  ends 
of  the  very  numerous  small  twigs  which  grow  out  from 
the  stalk  and  branches.  It  ripens  very  irregularly,  an 
individual  stalk  often  containing  blossoms  and  green  and 
ripe  seed  at  the  same  time;  hence,  some  judgment  is  re- 
quired in  cutting  it. 

When  the  bulk  of  seed  on  a  plant  is  ripe,  which  may 
be  known  by  the  brown  color,  the  stalk  should  be  cut  at 
the  root,  and  all  such  removed  on  qloths  and  lightly 
thrashed  at  once,  which  will  remove  all  dead-ripe  seed ;  the 
stalks  must  then  be  laid  on  shutters  and  exposed  to  the 
sun  for  two  days,  and  again  thrashed,  when  all  seed  that 
is  sufficiently  ripe  to  germinate  will  readily  fall  from  the 
stalks.  The  seed  must  be  spread  thin,  on  cloths,  in  a  loft, 
for  ten  days  or  more,  when  it  can  be  run  twice  through 
the  fan-mill  and  finally  cleaned  by  the  No.  24  sieve. 

Celery  seed  retains  its  vitality  five  years. 

Varieties. — ^The  distinct  varieties  of  celery  in  common 
cultivation  are  very  few ;  many  gardeners  claim  to  have  a 


86  FAIIM-GAKDEXING    AND    SEED-GKOWIXG. 

variety  of  their  own  "which  is  designated  by  the  name  of 
the  proprietor,  in  general  parlance,  as  Brown's  kind, 
Smith's  kind,  etc.,  as  the  case  may  be,  but  in  these  there 
is  but  little  if  any  difference. 

The  main  points  of  celery  for  market  are  stout  heads, 
solid  leaf-stalks,  and  abundant  heart.  The  tall-growing 
varieties  are  now  but  little  cultivated,  the  dwarf  being 
preferred,  from  the  fact  that  it  can  be  grown  more  closely 
together,  and  is  easier  worked  than  the  former. 

Giant  White  Solid* — Leaves  not  very  abundant ;  heart- 
leaves  long  and  solid  ;  hight  three  feet. 

A  few  years  since  this  was  the  standard  sort  among 
market-gardeners. 

Dwarf  White  Solid* — Leaves  abundant ;  hearts  profuse 
and  solid  ;  aJ)out  two  feet  in  hight  and  very  stout.  Kow 
generally  in  use  among  market  -  gardeners,  and  grown 
under  various  names,  as  previously  stated. 

Dwarf  Red  Solid* — Yery  similar  to  the  above,  except 
as  to  color,  the  stalk  of  the  leaves  being  purplish  red,  and 
when  blanched  the  hearts  are  marked  with  rosy  pink,  pre- 
senting a  very  rich  appearance.  Iii  my  opinion  decidedly 
the  finest  flavored,  and  generally  the  best  of  all. 

CORK 

Sweet  corn,  or  that  used  in  the  green  state  for  the  table, 
is  not  grown  much  by  market-gardeners,  but  is  quite  an 
important  croj)  with  farm-gardeners  not  far  distant  from 
city  markets.  If  carefully  packed  it  may  be  shipped  to  a 
distance  to  advantage. 

Soil  and  Preparation* — Sweet  com  should  have  rather 
light  soil,  and  as  it  is  very  important  to  get  it  early  into 
market,  it  should  be  planted  in  land  which  can  be  worked 
early,  and  lies  well  to  the  sun.  As  the  crop  will  be  off  in 
time  to  allow  turnips  to  be  sown,  it  will  be  well  to  manure 
quite  heavily  for  this  crop,  in  anticipation  of  the  gecond 


coKX.  87 

one.  Apply  twenty  two-liorse  loads  of  stable  manure, 
plowed  in,  or  one  thousand  pounds  of  bone-flour,  or  five 
hundred  j^ounds  of  guano,  harrowed  in,  to  the  acre.  Mark 
out  furrows  four  feet  apart;  put  in  some  well-rotted 
manure  or  compost,  with  which  mix  a  little  soil ;  drop  the 
seed  from  three  to  six  inches  apart,  cover  two  inches  deep, 
and  press  with  the  hoe.  When  desirable  to  work  both 
ways  with  a  horse,  mark  furrows,  three  and  a  half  feet 
apart  each  way,  and  at  the  angles  place  a  half-shovelful  of 
manure,  mixing  some  soil  with  it,  and  put  in  six  or  eight 
kernels  to  each  hill ;  cover  with  two  inches  of  fine  earth, 
and  press  firmly  with  the  hoe-blade.  About  one  peck  of 
seed  will  be  required  for  an  acre. 

The  amount  of  seed  in  the  row  or  hill  must  be  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  season,  and  if  planted  early — which  it 
always  should  be  for  first  crop,  even  at  the  risk  of  having 
to  replant — ^it  must  be  put  in  quite  thick,  as  in  all  proba- 
bility some  will  rot.  When  fairly  above  ground  culti- 
vate and  hoe,  and  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  past,  thin  to 
one  foot  apart  in  the  rows,  or  four  to  a  hill.  The  usual 
time  for  planting  is  the  first  of  -May,  but  if  it  can  be  got 
in  earlier  all  the  better,  if  the  land  lies  warm.  It  may  be 
planted  for  succession  at  intervals  until  July. 

Marketing. — The  fitness  of  corn  for  the  table,  and 
hence  for  market,  can  be  determined  by  the  kernels  filling 
out  plump  and  entirely  covering  the  cob,  but  as  the  husk- 
ing to  inspect  its  condition  damages  the  looks,  and  by  ex- 
posing the  kernels  would  spoil  the  whole,  growers  pull 
the  ears  in  accordance  with  the  appearance  of  the  silk 
which  protrudes  from,  the  ends,  as  well  as  by  feeling.  To 
understand  the  proper  condition  of  the  silk  can  only  be  ac- 
quired by  experience,  and  to  learn  tliis  a  few  ears  must  be 
husked  at  various  stages.  Suftice  it  to  say  no  corn  is  fit  to 
market  while  the  silk,  or  at  least  so  much  of  it  as  protrudes 
from  the  husks,  is  green.     Sweet  corn  can  be  shipped  in 


88  FARM-GAKDENING   AND    SEED-GKOAVIXG. 

bulk,  but  it  is  more  convenient  to  place  it  ^promiscuously 
in  well-ventilated  barrels. 

Seed. — Sweet  corn  will  mix  with  field  corn  if  grown 
near  it ;  hence,  to  keep  the  stock  pure,  this  must  be 
avoided.  The  cultivation  is  the  same  as  for  market,  and 
should  be  planted  about  the  middle  of  May.  Good  sweet 
corn  for  seed  can  be  grown  on  inverted  sward-land,  using 
as  a  fertilizer  a  handful  of  bone-phosphate  to  each  hill, 
well  mixed  with  the  soil.  When  the  stalks  begin  to  dry 
they  must  be  cut  and  bound  in  small  shocks,  the  same  as 
field  corn,  and  afterwards  the  ears  husked  out  and  spread 
in  a  loft  to  dry  thoroughly.  The  nicest  but  the  most  la- 
borious way  to  save  seed  sweet-corn  is,  when  the  stalks 
are  partially  dry,  to  break  the  whole  ear  off,  and  with 
one  or  two  of  the  outer  husks,  tie  six  or  eight  ears  to- 
gether, and  hang  them  over  a  fence  or  in  a  loft  until 
they  become  perfectly  dry,  when  they  may  be  husked 
out.  The  small  grains  at  the  point  of  the  ear  and 
all  imperfect  grains  should  be  removed,  the  bal- 
ance shelled  by  hand  and  passed  through  the  fan-mill. 
Sweet  com  retains  moisture  a  long  time,  and  must  not  be 
hastily  stored  away  in  bulk.  If  kept  from  the  weevil  it 
retains  its  vitality  two  years. 

Varieties. — ^The  varieties  are  numerous,  but  those  in 
general  cultivation  are  few. 

Extra  Early  Dwarf  Sugar. — The  earliest  known  sort ; 
stalk  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet  high;  ears  short, 
eight-rowed,  rather  small  for  market;  valuable  for  its 
earliness. 

Early  Eight-rowed  Sagar. — The  best  early  variety  to 
grow  for  market  in  quantity ;  stalk  five  feet  high  ;  ears 
eight-rowed;  about  eight  inches  long,  tapering  to  the 
point ;  kernels  plump  and  full. 

Mammoth  or  Excelsior  Sweet. — The  best  of  all  sweet 
corn,  but  rather  late ;  stalk  six  feet ;  ears  twelve  to  sixteen 


CUCUMBERS.  89 

rows,  eight  to  twelve  inches  long,  thick  at  the  point ;  ker- 
nels long  and  slender,  very  much  indented. 

CUCUMBERS. 

These  can  be  safely  shipped  a  long  distance,  and  hence 
are  worthy  the  attention  of  those  who  are  remote  from 
market,  and  desire  to  grow  vegetables  for  profit. 

Soil  and  Preparation, — The  soil  best  adapted  to  cu- 
cumbers is  a  sandy  loam,  and  they  will  do  well  on  very 
sandy  land  if  an  abundance  of  manure  is  applied.  Where 
manure  can  be  obtained  it  is  far  preferable  to  plow  under 
a  good  dressing,  as  the  vines  are  rank  feeders.  As  a  rule 
they  are  grown  in  hills. 

For  this  plan,  plow  and  harrow  the  ground,  furrow  out 
six  feet  for  the  large,  or  four  and  a  half  feet  for  the  small- 
growing  kinds,  one  way,  and  three  feet  the  other.  At 
every  crossing  put  a  shovelful  of  well-rotted  manure  or 
compost  and  thoroughly  mix  it  Avith  the  soil. 

Planting  and  Cultivating. — ^The  season  for  planting  is 
from  the  first  to  the  tenth  of  May  for  early,  and  at  any 
time  thence  until  the  first  of  July,  at  which  latter  date 
those  designed  for  pickles  may  be  planted,  their  after-cul- 
tivation being  the  same  as  when  the  crop  is  to  be  full- 
grown.  When  the  manure  can  be  put  in  broadcast,  mark 
light  furrows  five  to  seven  feet  apart,  according  to  the 
kind  to  be  planted ;  long  varieties  make  the  most  vine, 
and  vice  versa. 

Drop  in  the  seed  thickly,  certainly  twelve  or  fifteen  to 
a  foot,  which  will  allow  a  fair  share  for  the  "  striped  bug," 
which  is  certain  to  give  them  a  call.  Cover  an  inch  deep 
with  fine  soil,  and  press  with  the  hoe-blade.  When  grown 
in  hills,  about  twenty  seeds  should  be  placed  in  each,  and 
covered  as  in  rows. 

As  soon  as  the  young  plants  begin  to  break  through, 


90  FARM-GAEDENING    AND    SEED-GllOWING. 

the  bugs  must  be  looked  after.  I  have  known  them  to 
eat  off  the  plant  before  it  was  foirly  out  of  the  ground, 
and  if  attention  is  given  to  them  at  tliis  time,  the  crop 
may  be  saved,  or  if  passed  by  for  a  day  or  two  the  wliole 
may  be  destroyed.  Tobacco-dust,  bone-flour,  ashes,  etc., 
are  recommended  to  destroy  or  drive  away  these  pests, 
but  I  have  always  found  air-slaked  shell-lime  to  be  the 
most  effectual.  It  is  quite  essential  to  procure  a  bar- 
rel or  two  of  burnt  oyster-shells  in  early  spring,  and  put 
them  into  a  box  or  cask  large  enough  to  allow  of  nearly 
double  increase  of  bulk  by  slaking.  The  lime  should  be 
kept  in  a  dry  place,  exposed  to  the  air,  by  the  action  of 
which  it  will  in  time  slake,  and  crumble  fine.  This  should 
be  sifted  as  wanted,  and  the  dust  sprinkled  over  and  un- 
der the  young  plants,  even  before  a  bug  may  be  seen,  as 
with  these  "  an  ounce  of  prevention  is  worth  a  pound  of 
cure."  As  the  plants  grow  they  should  be  limed  every 
few  days,  until  they  begin  to  run,  applying  the  dust  very 
early  in  the  morning  while  the  dew  is  on,  thus  causing  it 
to  adhere,  throwing  it  well  under  as  well  as  sprinkling  it 
over  the  plants.  When  the  plants  are  nicely  up  work 
with  the  cultivator  and  hoe,  and  repeat  it  as  often  as  pos- 
sible, for  working  among  the  plants  disturbs  the  bugs,  as 
well  as  loosens  the  soil  and  destroys  the  weeds.  AVhen 
the  plants  begin  to  run  or  form  a  vine  they  must  be  thin- 
ned out  to  twelve  inches  if  in  rows,  or  three  plants  may  be 
left  in  a  hill.  If  just  after  this  they  receive  a  thorough 
cultivating  and  hoeing,  they  will  scarcely  require  anymore 
attention,  as  the  vines  will  soon  cover  the  ground.  Cu- 
cumbers may  be  advanced  by  starting  them  under  glass 
in  a  cold-frame  about  the  first  of  May.  Cut  sods  about 
three  inches  thick,  and  in  pieces  four  inches  square ;  lay 
them  up-side  down  on  the  level  surface  of  the  cold-bed ; 
after  taking  out  an  inch  or  more  of  the  soil  from  the  cen- 
ter of  each  sod,  drop  in  a  few  seeds  and  cover  with  fine 
earth  ;  water,  and  place  on  the  sashes.    In  a  few  days  they 


CUCUMBEKS.  91 

will  have  started,  ^vheii  they  will  require  airing  every  mild 
day  and  closing  at  night.  There  is  but  little  danger  of 
bugs  when  grown  this  way,  and  by  the  twentieth  of  the 
month  they  maybe  removed  to  the  open  air,  provided  the 
weather  is  settled.  Of  course  the  sod  is  to  be  lifted  with 
the  plants,  and  when  set  out,  if  they  show  any  signs  of 
wilting,  give  a  good  watering  at  evening.  When  firmly 
established  they  must  be  thinned  to  three  plants  in  a  hill, 
the  preparation  of  the  soil  and  after-treatment  being  the 
same  as  for  regular  out-door  culture.  When  it  is  desired 
to  force  cucumbers,  after  the  crop  of  cabbage  or  other 
plants  has  been  removed  from  the  cold-frames,  always  by 
the  first  of  May,  the  soil  should  be  spaded  and  raked,  and 
a  few  seeds  planted  in  the  center  of  each  section,  or  im- 
mediately under  the  center  of  each  sash. 

The  sashes  being  placed  on,  the  seeds  will  soon  germi- 
nate, and  when  strong,  thin  to  three  to  a  sash. 

In  this  case  the  plants  may  be  forced  somewhat  by  keep- 
ing pretty  close,  but  avoid  excessive  heat,  as  it  v»^ill  weaken 
them,  or  they  may  be  scorched,  to  their  injury.  At  the 
same  time  guard  against  sudden  changes  to  cold,  when 
the  sashes  are  opened. 

When  the  weather  becomes  warm  and  the  vines  require 
room,  the  sashes  may  be  entirely  removed. 

Marketing. — CiTcumbers  should  always  be  cut,  never 
pulled,  as  that  disturbs  and  injures  the  vines.  They  are 
ready  for  market  when  a  little  more  than  half-grown,  or 
while  they  still  retain  their  green  color.  When  grown 
near  a  market,  washing  will  improve  their  appearance, 
but  for  shipping  they  are  better  if  left  dry,  but  avoid 
having  them  wilted.  They  may  be  shipped  in  barrels  or 
boxes,  but  should  not  be  long  packed  in  bulk.  Pickles  must 
be  cut  when  one  fourth  to  one  half  grown,  and  these,  as 
well  as  when  grown  full  size,  will  be  increased  in  number 
by  keeping  them  cut  clean,  for  when  a  part  is  allowed  to 
ripen  but  few  more  set,  and  the  vines  soon  die. 


92  FAKM-GAEDENUfG   AND   SEED-GKOWIXG. 

Seed. — When  grown  for  seed  the  same  course  must  be 
pursued  as  when  grown  for  market,  except  that  they  need 
not  be  planted  until  near  the  first  of  Juno.  To  insure  a 
large  crop,  the  first  setting  must  be  cut  when  young,  and 
the  second  blossoms  will  yield  more  than  twofold.  Some 
advise  pinching  the  ends  of  the  young  vines  to  produce 
fruitfulness,  but  I  have  never  seen  any  benefit  from  it 
With  pure  stock  there  is  but  little  choice  in  selecting.  A 
few  of  the  very  best  may  be  taken  for  stock  seed,  but 
when  properly  grown  the  whole  crop  will  be  even  and 
uniform.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe,  which  maybe  known  by 
their  changing  color  from  green  to  white  or  yellow,  ac- 
cording to  the  variety,  they  must  be  gathered  into  a  barn 
or  shed  to  be  cut.  This  is  work  which  may  be  done  on 
wet  or  stormy  days,  but  it  is  not  advisable  to  let  the 
cucumbers  remain  long  in  a  heap,  for  they  will  soon  rot 
after  removal  from  the  vines,  which  makes  dirty  work, 
and  causes  some  loss  of  seed.  The  cucumbers  must  be 
cut  lengthwise,  and  the  seeds  scraped  out  by  the  thumb 
and  fingers  into  a  tub,  from  whence  they  must  be  emptied 
into  tight  barrels  to  Bour,  in  order  to  remove  the  mucil- 
aginous pulp  in  which  each  seed  is  encased.  The  barrels 
must  not  be  more  than  three  fourths  full,  for  in  course  of 
fermentation  the  mass  increases  in  bulk  nearly  one  fourth, 
for  which  this  allowance  must  be  madie. 

The  whole  should  be  thoroughly  stirred  at  least  once 
every  day,  and  will  be  ready  for  washing  in  about  five 
days,  or  when  the  seed  all  settles  to  the  bottom,  though  it 
may  remain  longer  without  injury  if  solely  in  the  natural 
juice.  The  washing  must  be  done  on  a  clear  day,  and 
commenced  early  in  the  morning,  that  the  seed  may  be- 
come partially  dry  by  night.  Take  a  large  tub  (usually  a 
half-hogshead),  fill  it  two  thirds  with  water,  and  pass  the 
seed  through  a  No.  3  sieve,  into  the  water;  the  sieve 
should  be  held  partially  under,  and  worked  about  in  the 
water ;  this  will  retain  any  pieces  of  skin  or  coarse  matter 


CUCUMBEKS.  93 

* 

in  the  sieve,  and  the  seeds  will  settle  to  the  bottom. 
Not  more  than  one  barrel  of  pulp  can  be  conveniently- 
washed  at  one  time,  and  each  lot  of  seed  will  require 
several  waters,  which  will  carry  away  the  pulp  in  pour- 
ing off,  and  eventually  leave  the  seed  clean  in  the  bottom 
of  the  tub. 

The  seed  must  be  taken  out  in  sieves  Nos.  8  and  10,  and 
left  to  drain  while  another  lot  is  being  washed,  when  it 
must  be  placed  on  shutters,  such  as  are  used  on  cold- 
frames,  in  the  sun,  to  dry ;  the  second  lot  taken  out,  and 
so  on,  until  the  whole  is  complete.  The  next  day  the  seed 
can  be  placed  thin  on  cloths,  again  exposed  to  the  sun ; 
afterwards  removed  to  a  loft,  and  kept  spread  thin  on 
cloths  until  perfectly  dry,  when  it  may  be  passed  through 
the  fan-mill,  and  finally  cleaned  by  No.  10  sieve,  which 
will  remove  the  sand,  and  it  can  then  be  stored. 

The  seed  retains  its  vitality  more  than  ten  years. 

Varieties. — The  difference  in  the  leading  varieties  is 
quite  marked. 

They  readily  mix  with  each  other  and  with  melons,  and 
other  vegetables  of  their  class,  and  consequently  all  such 
must  in  cultivation  be  kept  widely  separated  to  preserve 
them  pure. 

Early  Russian. — The  earliest  and  smallest  of  all. 
'Fruit  pale  green,  when  ripe  brownish  yellow ;  seldom 
three  inches  in  length,  thick,  and  blunt  at  the  ends ; 
usually  produced  in  pairs;  plants  small,  and  very  pro- 
ductive. Like  all  short  varieties  a  free  seeder,  and  I  may 
here  remark  that  the  larger  and  longer  the  cucumber,  the 
less  seed  is  produced  in  proportion. 

Early  Cluster. — An  old  and  favorite  variety.  Fruit 
dark  green  above,  pale  below  and  at  the  ends;  when  ripe 
dark  yellow  or  orange ;  about  six  inches  in  length,  thick, 
tapering  at  the  stem,  rather  blunt  at  the  blossom-end ; 
grows   in   clusters;    plants  not  of  the  largest,  but  free 


94  FAEM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 

growers  in  good  soil;  very  productive  ;  a  free  seeder.  A 
valuable  variety  for  pickles. 

Early  White -Spine. — The  general  favorite  about  lse\y 
York  for  marketing.  Fruit  glossy  green,  growing  lighter 
by  age,  and  when  ripe  nearly  or  quite  white;  prickles 
white,  distinct  from  most  other  varieties,  eight  to  ten 
inches  in  length,  rather  thin  in  comparison  with  the 
cluster,  and  tapering  at  the  stem-end  ;  plants  remarkably 
free  growers,  and  very  productive ;  a  moderate  seeder. 

London  Long  Green* — Fruit  dark  green  ;  when  ripe 
brownish  yellow,  about  twelve  inches  in  length,  tapering 
at  the  stem;  plants  not  very  free  growers^  not  productive, 
and  a  shy  seeder. 

EGG-PLANT. 

A  native  of  a  tropical  climate,  extremely  sensitive  to 
cold,  and  consequently  quite  difficult  to  grow.  The  fruit 
can  be  readily  shipped,  but  requires  careful  handling,  as 
the  skin  is  quite  easily  disfigured,  and  the  appearance  is 
much  damaged  when  bruised.  On  account  of  the  atten- 
tion required  in  the  early  stages,  they  are  not  extensively 
cultivated.  The  demand  for  them  is  steadily  increasing, 
and  where  the  climate  suits  they  may  be  profitably  grown. 
They  succeed  best  during  very  hot,  dry  weather ;  and 
when  it  happens  there  is  much  rain  about  the  time  of 
blossoming,  but  few  fruit  will  set. 

Sowing  Seed  and  Growing  the  Plants.— The  seed 
should  be  sown  in  a  hot-bed,  and  requires  more  heat  than 
any  other  to  germinate  it. 

If  sown  the  first  of  April,  the  plants  may  be  sufiiciently 
forwarded  to  give  a  crop  for  market,  but  as  I  have  always 
grown  them  for  seed  purposes  specially,  and  the  fruit 
requiring  at  least  one  month  after  it  is  eatable  to  per- 
fect the  seed,  I  find  it  necessary  to  sow  by  the  first  of 
March.     It  i^  true  we  have  much  extra  labor  in  guarding 


EGG-PLANT.  95 

the  i^lants  one  month  more  at  a  very  inclement  season  of 
the  year,  and  also  the  trouble  and  expense  of  makino-  sn 
extra  hot-bed,  but  this  is  more  than  compensated  by  the 
returns  from  a  full  crop  of  seed.  In  either  case,  the  hot- 
bed should  be  made  as  directed  under  that  liead,  with  an 
addition  of  six  inches  more  of  manure.  The  surface  must 
be  raked  even,  and  enough  sifted  soil  be  added  to  make 
the  depth  six  inches,  when  the  plants  are  to  remain  in  the 
seed-bed  until  transplanted  to  the  open  ground;  but  three 
inches  will  be  sufficient  when  it  is  designed  to  use  a 
second  hot-bed.  Spread  the  seed  even  and -thin;  one 
ounce  of  seed  will  sow  two  sashes,  and  produce  two 
thousand  plants;  cover  wilh  one  half  an  inch  of  very  line 
soil ;  water  lightly  from  a  line-rose  Avatering-pot ;  put  on 
the  sashes,  and  cover  the  whole  from  the  sun  for  twenty- 
four  hours  ;  then  remove  the  shading,  and  allow  the  vapor 
to  pass  away,  but  do  not  allow  the  bed  to  become  chilled, 
by  opening  each  end-sash  one  inch  from  the  top  for  a 
shoi-t  time  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  The  bed  must  not 
be  allowed  to  become  dry,  nor  yet  be  kept  very  wet;  the 
upper  part  may  need  an  occasional  sprinkling,  but  the 
lower  half  will  be  naturally  moist  enough.  When  the 
plants  first  come  up,  they  are  very  liable  to  damp  off,  and 
at  this  time  but  little  water  must  be  used — the  vapor  must 
be  allowed  to  pass  off;  still  beware  of  chiliing  the  plants. 
If  sown  the  first  of  April,  the  plants  may  be  thinned  to 
four  inches  apart ;  but  when  sown  the  first  of  March,  I 
prepare  a  second  and  larger  hot-bed  when  the  plants  are 
forming  the  second  leaves,  which  is  tempered  and  ready 
by  the  time  the  plants  are  large  enough  to  handle  easily. 
In  this  bed  the  soil  is  at  least  six  inches  deep,  raked 
fine,  and  the  surface  even.  In  this  the  young  plants  are 
pricked  out  six  inches  apart,  lightly  watered,  the  sashes 
put  on,  the  ])lants  shaded  for  a  day  or  two,  and  during 
the  middle  of  the  day  for  two  or  three  days  longer. 
Egg-plants  have  but  few  fibrous  roots,  consequently  they 


9G  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

are  difficult  to  transj^lant,  and  great  care  must  be  taken 
to  press  the  eaitli  against  the  root,  and  to  properly  attend 
to  the  shading.  Water  can  only  be  used  sparingly,  for 
until  the  plants  again  become  established  there  is  danger 
of  damping  off.  They  now  require  regular  airing,  and  by 
good  attention,  with  the  fresh  heat  under  them,  they  soon 
outgrow  those  in  the  seed-bed,  and  at  the  season  of  trans- 
planting, from  the  twentieth  of  May  to  the  first  of  June, 
we  have  large,  strong  plants  to  set  out.  As  the  plants 
advance  in  growth,  the  frames  must  be  raised  and  blocked 
up,  so  that  the  leaves  do  not  touch  the  glass — an  advantage 
in  movable  frames — and  before  setting  out,  the  sashes 
must  be  removed  to  liarden  the  i:)lants.  Weeds  will  grow 
freely  among  the  plants,  and  must  be  regularly  pulled 
out,  and  the  surface  occasionally  stirred  by  the  finger. 

Soil,  Planting,  and  Cultiyation. — Egg-plants  require  a 
deep,  light,  warm  soil,  and  it  can  hardly  be  made  too 
rich.  The  land  may  be  prepared  about  the  middle  of 
May  in  readiness  for  planting,  w^hich  is  usually  done 
about  the  twenty-fifth,  a  rainy  day  or  just  after  a  rain 
being  the  most  suitable  time. 

Apply  a  liberal  quantity  of  stable-manure  or  bone-dust, 
plow  deep,  and  harrow  thoroughly;  mark  out  furrows 
four  feet  apart,  in  vv^hich  place  a  shovelful  of  well-rotted 
manure  or  compost  every  three  feet,  and  thoroughly  mix 
it  into  the  soil  with  a  hoe,  formini?  a  sliofht  hill  v/ith  a 
concave  center  six  or  eight  inches  in  depth. 

When  the  weather  is  suitable  for  transplanting,  water 
the  bed  copiously^  thoroughly  saturating  the  soil ;  lift  the 
plants  by  means  of  a  trowel,  securing  large  balls  of  earth 
to  the  roots,  and  remove  them  in  wheelbarrows  to  the 
place  of  planting.  Set  the  plants  in  the  holes,  drawing 
the  earth  to  them,  and  firmly  pressing  it  about  the  root 
with  the  hands.  Those  grown  in  the  seed-bed,  if  properly 
thinned,  may  be  removed  the  same  way,  which  is  far 
preferable  to  lifting  without  the  earth  attached. 


EGG-PLANT.  97 

The  after-cultivation  consists  only  in  keeping  the 
ground  free  from  weeds,  which  is  readily  done  by  the 
cultivator  and  hoe. 

Cutting  for  Market. — The  fruit  is  marketable  when 
about  half-grown,  usually  six  to  eight  inches  long,  and 
five  to  six  inches  in  diameter  at  the  thickest  part.  This, 
however,  can  only  be  determined  by  some  experience  with 
them.  They  are  not  eatable  when  the  seeds  begin  to 
swell,  which  may  be  known  by  the  color  of  the  fruit 
changing  from  bright  to  dull  purple. 

On  account  of  the  thorns  on  the  stems  of  some,  they 
are  most  easily  cut  with  a  strong  pair  of  shears. 

They  should  not  be  washed,  but  may  be  wiped  off  and 
carefully  laid  in  barrels  for  shipping. 

Seed. — To  keep  up  and  improve  the  variety,  such  as 
are  wanted  for  stock  seed  should  be  selected  when 
growing,  and  marked  by  crossing  with  a  knife.  For  this 
purpose  select  the  earliest,  best  formed,  and  particularly 
the  deepest  colored,  and  as  far  as  possible  from  produc- 
tive plants.  Some  may  prefer  to  select  those  without 
thorns  on  the  stem,  as  these  are  pleasanter  to  handle, 
but  I  have  found  the  thorny-stemmed  ones  the  most  pro- 
ductive, and  the  fruit  is  more  handsome  than  that  from 
the  smooth-stemmed. 

The  latter  are,  however,  a  little  earlier  than  the  former, 
so  that  one  thing  balances  the  other,  and  it  is  quite  as 
well  to  grow  them  promiscuously.  When  the  fruit  is  ripe, 
which  may  be  known  by  the  change  from  bright  purple 
to  dull  purple,  and  sometimes  to  a  deep  yellow,  those 
marked  for  stock  must  first  be  gathered,  and  it  is  recom- 
mended in  selecting  from  the  marked  fruit  to  take  only  such 
as  have  held  their  color  well  toward  maturity.  It  is  ad- 
visable to  make  two  or  three  gatherings  of  the  main  crop, 
as  the  first  ripe  are  liable  to  rot  before  the  later  ones  are 
fit  for  seed.  At  the  first  frost  all  that  are  marketable  may 
be  cut   and  sold,  as  they  will  not  ripen  the  seed.     Cut 


yy  FAKM-GAEDEXIXG    AXD   SEED-GROWIXG. 

with  shears,  cart  to  the  shed  or  barn,  and  prepare  for 
mashing  or  grinding.     The  primitive  mode,  which  must 
yet  be  resorted  to  where  machinery  is  not  at  command,  is 
to  cut  away  one  third  or  more  of  the  fruit  from  the  stem- 
end,  and  peel  the  skin  from  the  balance.     It  will  be  ob- 
served that  there  are  no  seeds  in  the  upper  or  stem-end 
and  those  below  lie  over  one  fourth  of  an  inch  from  the 
skin ;    hence    much    may   be    cut    away   to    reduce    the 
labor  of  mashing  or  grinding   as  well  as  washing.     The 
peeled  fruit  may  be  placed  in   small  quantity  in  a  strong 
barrel,  and  mashed  to  a  line  pulp,  emptied  into  other  bar- 
rels,  and   this    continued  until  finished,  or   they  may  bo 
ground  in  a  portable  cider  or  wine  mill.     I  have  always 
used  Krauser's  Patent  Portable  Cider-Mill,  for  these  and  all 
other  things  which  require  to  be  ground   up  in  order  to 
procure  the  seed.     This  mill  has  two  reciprocating  levers 
working  alternately  against   a  rough  cylinder,   and   by 
placing  the    cut   part   against    the  cylinder,  bottom-end 
down,  the  pulp  is  scooped  out,  and  the  skins  which  pass 
through  whole   are  quickly  taken  out  in  washing.  To  pre- 
pare the  fruit  for  this  mill  we  simply  cut  away  the  top 
and  quarter  the  other  part,  and  for  mashing  by  hand  or 
grinding  in  other  mills  they  should  also  be  cut,, as  well  as 
peeled.     In  cutting  avoid   using   a  very  sharp  knife,  lest 
many  seeds  be  cut  and  spoiled,  and  after  the  fruits  are  cut 
they  must  be  ground  immediately,  for  they  quickly  heat 
and  rot.      The  pulp,  to  work  nicely,  should  be  washed  the 
day  after  grinding,  but  may  remain  longer  without  injury 
to  the  seed. 

The  washing  is  done  principally  in  the  same  manner  as 
cucumber  seed,  except  that  we  use  a  No.  3  sieve  first,  and 
as  each  lot  receives  its  third  w^ashing  the  seed  is  removed 
to  a  barrel,  and  when  the  whole  is  thus  far  cleaned  it  is 
again  washed  as  before,  using  sieve  No.  6.  Two  or  three 
changes  of  water  v/ill  make  the  seed  perfectly  free  from 
pulp,  when  it  must  be  taken  out  in  sieves  Nos.  12  and  14,  . 


EGG-PLANT.  99 

drained,  and  spread  thinly  on  shutters.  Egg-plant  seed  is 
very  liable  to  sprout  after  washing  unless  quickly  dried  ; 
hence  it  is  very  important  to  select  a  dry  day  for  the  opera- 
tion, and  to  commence  early  in  the  morning,  so  as  to  get  the 
seed  out  before  noon,  between  which  time  and  night,  if 
spread  thin,  exposed  to  the  sun,  and  frequently  stirred,  it 
will  be  fit  to  put  on  cloths,  and  be  removed  to  a  loft,  where 
it  may  be  left  spread  thin  until  thoroughly  dry.  It  may  af- 
terwards be  cleaned  by  passing  through  the  wind,  or  large 
lots  through  the  fan-mill,  and  the  sand  removed  by  sieve 
No.  12.  The  seed,  when  well  kept,  retains  its  vitality 
five  years. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  are  not  numerous,  and  the 
older  sorts  are  known  as  "  Long  Purple  "  and  "  Round 
Purple,"  differing  mainly  in  the  shape  of  the  fruit. 

The  general  favorite  at  the  present  time  is  the 

New  York  Improved  Large  Purple. — This  is  an  im- 
provement on  the  "Round  Purple"  made  by  carefully  se- 
lecting the  fruit  for  a  succession  of  years.  It  was  grown 
by  my  father  while  gardening  at  Jersey  City.  He  annu- 
ally took  the  first  premium  at  the  American  Institute 
Fairs,  which  fact  excited  the  attention  of  a  I^ew  York  seeds- 
man, who  contracted  with  him  for  an  annual  supply  of 
seed,  and  gave  it  the  name  it  still  bears. 

Plant  upright  and  compact ;  fruit,  when  marketable, 
six  to  nine  inches  in  length,  and  four  to  six  inches  in  di- 
ameter, thinnest  at  the  stem,  sometimes  indented  or 
grooved  on  one  side ;  color  bright  velvety  purple,  chang- 
ing to  dull  purple  and  yellow  when  ripe,  at  which  stage  it 
frequently  attains  a  size  of  twelve  inches  in  length  and 
eight  inches  in  diameter ;  stems  quite  thickly  covered 
with  thorns  on  many  of  the  plants. 

Black  Pekin. — A  very  distinct  variety,  quite  recently 
introduced.  Plant  large  and  branching,  with  purple  stalks ; 
the  leaves   green,   distinctly   marked   with    purple    and 


100  FARM-GARDENING  AND   SEED-GROWING. 

bronzed ;  very  ornamental ;  fruit  of  medium  size,  rarely 
over  six  inches  in  diameter,  nearly  round ;  color  black- 
purple,  which  it  retains  until  maturity.  Its  fitness  for  seed 
is  determined  by  shrinking  of  the  skin  when  ripe. 

HERBS. 

The  cultivation  of  the  leading  herbs  is  a  business  of 
some  magnitude  with  market-gardeners,  and  worthy  the 
attention  of  those  who  are  remote  from  market,  for  in  the 
dry  state  they  may  be  packed  without  risk,  and  shipped  any 
distance,  and  they  will  not  be  damaged  if  lightly  packed 
when  green,  provided  they  are  not  kept  so  long  enough 
to  heat.  Such  as  are  generally  grown  are  here  described. 
All  herbs  require  a  light  rich  soil,  which  should  be  made 
fine  on  the  surface,  and  generally  well  prepared.  They 
may  be  grown  as  second  crops  when  intended  for  market, 
by  sowing  in  April  and  transplanting  to  th^  first  cleared 
ground.  What  is  generally  termed  a  bunch  is  about  one 
half  as  much  as  can  be  spanned  by  the  thumb  and  forefin- 
ger. This  must  be  firmly  bound  at  the  bottom,  and 
usually  two  bunches  are  connected  for  convenience  in 
hanging  up  to  dry. 

Sage  I — Mark  rows  one  inch  deep  and  fifteen  inches 
apart,  in  which  deposit  the  seed  moderately  thin,  covering 
with  a  rake,  gently  pressing  the  earth.  The  young 
plants  may  be  set  out  fifteen  inches  apart,  or  they  may  be 
thinned  and  left  to  grow  where  sown.  The  plants  usual- 
ly survive  the  winter,  and  may  be  parted  and  reset  every 
spring,  which  is  the  better  plan  in  growing  for  seed.  The 
stems  should  be  gathered  just  before  blossoming,  and  the 
crop  may  be  cut  twice  in  one  season  if  grown  early. 

It  will  generally  give  a  fair  yield  of  marketable  leaves 
after  the  seed  has  been  cut.  The  seed  is  produced  in  open 
cups  on  slender  branches,  growing  above  the  leaves,  and 
when  ripe,  which  may  be  known  by  its  changing  to  black, 


HEKBS.  101 

the  branches  must  be  cut  and  placed  on  cloths,  until  the 
whole  is  collected,  as  it  ripens  unevenly  and  requires  fre- 
quent cuttings.  When  dry  it  will  readily  thrash  out,  and 
can  bo  easily  cleaned  with  ISTos.  G  and  12  sieves,  with  the 
aid  of  a  gentle  breeze. 

The  only  variety  cultivated  for  market  is  known  as  the 
"Broad-leaved." 

Sweet  Marjoram. — This  should  bo  sown  in  the  latter 
part  of  April,  the  same  way  precisely  as  directed  for 
Celery.  The  young  plants  must  be  kept  clean  by  repeated 
light  hoeing  and  weeding,  and  when  large  enough  to  han- 
dle nicely  be  transplanted  twelve  inches  apart  each  way, 
leaving  some  to  grow  in  the  seed-bed.  This  will  not  sur- 
vive our  winters,  hence  must  be  sown  every  year.  It 
must  be  cut  when  in  bloom.  The  seed  is  produced  withiif 
a  "  button  "  of  small  scales,  very  similar  in  appearance 
to  hops,  and  when  ripe,  which  may  be  known  by  the 
leaves  and  buttons  commencing  to  dry,  the  stems  may  be 
cut  entire,  and  as  the  seed  is  extremely  small,  must  be  kept 
on  cloths  of  very  fine  texture. 

It  can  be  quite  easily  thrashed  and  rubbed  out  when 
dry,  and  cleaned  with  sieves  Nos.  14,  20,  and  40,  and  a 
very  gentle  breeze.  The  variety  known  as  "  Knotted  Mar- 
joram "  is  the  only  one  of  any  importance. 

Summer  Savory. — Sow  the  first  of  May,  in  the  manner 
of  Sage,  in  very  shallow  drills ;  thin,  as  this  must  not  be 
transplanted,  but  allowed  to  grow  in  the  seed  bed. 

The  cutting  for  market  and  also  saving  the  seed  is  the 
same  as  directed  for  Sweet  Marjoram,  using  sieves  Nos.  10 
and  24  in  cleaning,  the  seeds  being  larger. 

Thyme. — This  must  be  sown  during  the  latter  part  of 
April,  in  the  same  manner  as  directed  for  Celery  seed,  and 
transplanted  and  otherwise  treated  as  directed  for  Sweet 
Marjoram.  This,  like  Sage,  will  survive  the  winter,  and 
may  be  divided  and  reset  in  the  spring,  which  is  also  the 


102  FAllM-GAllDEXING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

best  plan  in  growing  the  seed,  and  as  the  plants  will 
grow  strong  the  distance  should  be  fifteen  inches  each 
way.  Cut  when  in  blossom.  The  seed  is  produced  in  the 
same  manner  as  Sage,  and,  like  Marjoram,  is  extremely 
small.  It  ripens  more  unevenly  than  any  other  with  which 
we  have  to  do. 

To  save  it,  when  the  first  commences  to  ripen,  which 
may  be  known  by  its  dark  color  and  the  pods  becoming 
yellow  and  some  dry,  place  sheets  of  heavy  paper  under 
each  plant,  well  up  to  the  stems ;  at  noon  and  evening  shake 
the  plants  Avell,  causing  the  ripe  seed  to  fall  on  the  paper, 
which  must  be  removed  at  night  and  replaced  in  the 
morning. 

Of  course  this  can  not  be  done  during  rainy  weather, 
Jbut  there  is  little  danger  of  the  seed  shelling  out  when 
the  air  is  damp.  When  the  bulk  of  the  seed  has  been 
thus  collected,  the  stems  may  be  cut,  dried,  thrashed,  or 
rubbed,  and  the  seed  cleaned,  all  as  directed  for  Sweet 
Marjoram. 

The  variety  known  as  "  Spreading  Thyme  "  is  the  only 
one  fit  for  cultivation.  Herb  seeds  are  not  considered 
good  more  than  two  years. 

HORSERADISH. 

This  is  a  very  important  and  profitable  croj)  with  mar- 
ket-gardeners, and  is  particularly  adapted  to  shipping, 
hence  may  be  grown  remote  from  market  where  the  soil 
is  suited  to  its  cultivation.  It  is  propagated  from  sets,  as 
it  does  not  produce  seed ;  hence  there  are  no  varieties.  In 
its  native  state  it  is  usually  found  in  low  places,  being  fond 
of  moisture.  This  latter  fact  formerly  induced  gardeners 
to  plant  it  in  low  ground,  which  always  gave  it  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  leaves,  but  the  root,  which  is  the  only  eatable 
part,  produced  laterals  and  fibers,  and  the  proportion  of 
marketable  roots  was  comparatively  small.    When  planted 


HOESEllADISn.  103 

on  higlier  ground  it  was  found  that  the  roots,  in  searching 
for  their  favorite  moisture,  grew  perpendicularly,  and  with 
only  sufficient  laterals  for  sets,  for  future  planting,  thus 
concentrating  into  marketable  substance  much  that  in  the 
first  instance  was  y/orthless,  and  only  a  drain  upon  the  soil. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  soil  best  adapted  to  this 
crop  is  a  deep  loam,  with  mellow  or  free  subsoil,  and  suc- 
ceeds best  on  land  which  has  been  well  worked  and 
manured  for  a  number  of  years.  If  grown  separately, 
forty  ty/o-horse  loads  of  stable-manure  plowed  in,  or  one 
ton  of  bone-dust,  or  one  half  a  ton  of  guano  harrowed  in, 
should  bo  applied  to  the  acre.  Plow  deep,  following  with 
the  lifting  subsoil  plow,  harrow  thoroughly,  smooth  the 
surface  with  the  back  of  the  harrow,  and  mark  out  rows 
thirty  inches  apart. 

Gardeners  grow  this  as  a  second  crop,  usually  between 
the  rows  of  early  cabbages,  and  in  this  case  the  perfect 
preparation  of  the  soil  for  that  crop  answers  for  this. 

The  land  is  marked  with  a  fifteen-inch  marker,  every 
other  row  planted  with  cabbages  or  other  crop,  as  the  case 
may  be,  and  the  horseradish  set  in  the  intervening  rows. 

Planting  and  Cultivation. — The  sets  may  be  planted 
early  in  spring,  but  when  in  connection  with  another  crop 
usually  about  the  first  of  May,  to  give  the  first  crop  a 
chance  to  mature  before  the  second  requires  the  whole 
ground.  Along  the  rows  make  holes,  eighteen  inches 
apart,  and  three  or  four  inches  deeper  than  the  length  of 
the  sets,  using  a  light  crowbar  for  the  purpose.  In  these 
holes  drop  the  sets,  the  tops  of  which  should  be  three  or 
four  inches  below  the  surface,  and  fill  the  hole  with  earth, 
pressed  to  the  roots  by  means  of  a  dibble.  The  object  of 
this  deep  planting  is  to  retard  the  growth  when  cultivated 
as  a  second  crop,  and  to  give  the  first  crop  a  chance  to 
mature,  for  if  allowed  an  early  start  the  rapid  growth  of 
the  large  and  numerous  leaves  would  soon  envelop  the 
other  crop  to  its  destruction.     With  the  best  of  care  the 


J  04  FARM-GAKDENING   AND    SEED-GEOWING. 

horseradish  may  come  on  too  rapidly,  in  which  case  the 
leaves  that  appear  above  ground  may  be  cut  olF  with  a 
hoe,  without  materially  injuring  the  roots.  When  grown 
alone,  this  deep  planting  is  not  imperative,  but  is  advisable, 
for  then,  just  as  the  leaves  begin  to  appear,  the  whole 
land  may  be  harrowed  over,  as  is  frequently  practised  by 
farmers  with  potatoes,  thus  quickly  destroying  the  first 
crop  of  weeds.  The  after-cultivation  is  only  to  keep  the 
land  free  from  weeds,  and  as  the  leaves  soon  shade  the 
ground,  one  thorough  cultivating  and  hoeing  is  all  that 
will  be  required.  The  sets  for  a  start  may  be  obtained 
from  market-gardeners  or  seed-stores,  and  directions  for 
preparing  them  for  future  supply  will  be  given  more  par- 
ticularly hereafter. 

Gathering  and  Storing. — Horseradish  should  always 
be  sold  after  one  year's  growth.  The  principal  demand 
for  this  vegetable  is  in  the  winter,  hence  the  roots  are 
taken  up  in  the  fall,  usually  after  all  other  crops  are 
secured,  and  placed  in  pits  as  directed  in  the  chapter  on 
storing  roots,  or  they  may  be  put  in  a  cool  cellar  and 
covered  with  sand. 

The  main  root,  which  is  the  most  important,  penetrates 
deep,  and  requires  considerable  labor  to  secure  it  whole. 

A  deep  furrow  may  be  plowed  away  from  the  row  to 
assist  the  operation,  but  the  main  labor  must  be  done  by 
the  spade.  It  is  desirable  to  remove  the  roots  as  nearly 
whole  as  possible,  for  the  small  pieces  are  apt  to  vegetate 
the  following  year,  and  cause  some  annoyance  if  the  land 
is  cropped  with  small  stuff.  They  can  be  worked  out  by 
planting  such  crops  the  following  year  as  require  re- 
peated workings  with  the  cultivator  and  hoe. 

Preparing  for  Market. — During  the  winter  the  roots, 
as  w^anted,  may  be  removed  to  the  market-house,  the 
crowns  nicely  trimmed,  all  lateral  roots  removed  except 
the  larger  ones,  which  may  be  shortened  and  remain 
attached  to  the  main  root,  for  sale. 


KALE.  105 

They  must  next  be  cleanly  washed,  and  laid  in  barrels 
in  which  holes  have  been  bored  to  let  the  water  pass  away, 
or  they  may  be  drained  and  packed  in  boxes  for  shipping. 

The  roots  are  always  sold  by  weight.  In  the  process  of 
preparing  for  market,  the  "  sets  "  are  saved.  These  arc 
simply  the  lateral  roots,  which  are  cut  from  the  main 
root,  usually  three  eighths  of  an  inch  or  more  in  diameter, 
and  are  cut  about  six  inches  long,  the  upper  end  squared 
off,  and  the  bottom  or  root  end  made  slanting,  to  serve  as 
a  guide  in  setting,  to  prevent  planting  upside  down. 

These  sets  should  be  placed  in  boxes,  with  an  abundance 
of  sand  under,  over,  and  among  them,  to  prevent  heating, 
the  boxes  placed  in  a  cool  cellar  or  in  the  pits  from  which 
the  large  roots  were  taken,  protected  from  severe  frost, 
and  there  remain  until  wanted  for  planting. 

At  the  distance  herein  given  nearly  twelve  thousand 
sets  are  required  for  an  acre. 

KALE. 

This  is  but  comparatively  little  grown  in  tins  country, 
excepting  the  variety  called  "  Siberian  "  or  "  Dwarf  Ger- 
man Greens,"  and  more  commonly  known  as  "  Sprouts  " 
in  and  about  New  York  City.  For  the  latter  market  it  is 
very  extensively  grown,  and  immense  quantities  of  it  arc 
sold  there  annually. 

This  variety  in  its  prime  would  seem  like  a  cross  be- 
tween the  Russia  turnip  and  the  Savoy  cabbage,  in  form 
like  the  tops  of  the  former,  but  lacking  the  bulbous  root, 
and  with  its  deep  curled  fohage  resembling  the  latter, 
minus  the  solid  head. 

It  succeeds  best  in  a  rather  light  soil,  which  must  be 
highly  manured ;  at  least  thirty  two-horse  loads,  or  bone- 
dust  at  the  rate  of  one  ton  to  the  acre.  The  former  must 
be  plowed  in,  or  the  latter  harrowed  in.  The  seed  should 
be  sown  about  the  fifteenth  of  August. 
5* 


106  FARM-GARDEXING    AND    SEED-GROAVIXG. 

The  ground  being  thoroughly  prepared,  mark  out  rows, 
eighteen  inches  apart ;  sow  the  seed  evenly,  and  cover  by 
raking  lengthwise. 

When  the  plants  are  fairly  up,  use  the  push-hoe,  and 
thin  to  six  inches  apart.  They  will  not  require  any  fur- 
ther attention,  though  if  the  time  can  be  spared,  a  dress- 
ing with  the  hoe  may  assist  them  to  grow  strong,  and  the 
better  to  withstand  the  winter. 

As  early  as  possible  in  the  spring  loosen  the  ground 
thoroughly  by  means  of  a  prong-hoe,  which  is  all  the 
cultivation  necessary.  They  are  marketable  by  the  first 
of  May,  and  are  cut  in  a  bunch,  the  dead  leaves  trimmed 
away,  and  sold  by  the  barrel. 

They  are  sometimes  sold  very  late,  even  when  the  top  is 
in  bloom,  this  part  being  cut  away.  Those  who  are 
growing  choice  cabbage  seed  must  not  have  this  kale  in 
bloom  anywhere  near  them,  as  it  mixes  very  readily  with 
the  former.  To  grow  the  seed  of  this  the  same  treatment 
is  necessary  as  when  grown  for  market.  In  spring  re- 
move all  that  have  single  leaves,  as  its  beauty  consists  in 
the  curled  leaf.  When  the  seed  is  ripe,  which  may  be 
known  by  the  bulk  of  it  becoming  dry,  it  must  be  cut, 
choosing  a  damp  time,  or  early  in  the  morning  while  the 
dew  is  on,  and  even  then  very  careful  handling  is  neces- 
sary to  prevent  shelling. 

After  a  day  or  two  the  whole  will  be  fit  to  thrash, 
which  can  be  very  easily  done,  and  the  seed  separated 
from  the  chaff  by  the  fan-mill,  and  after  having  been 
spread  out  in  a  loft  for  ten  days,  may  be  finally  cleaned 
by  the  fan-mill  and  No.  20  sieve.  The  seed  retains  its 
vitality  four  years. 

LEEK. 

Extensively  grown  by  market-gardeners  as  a  second 
crop.     From  the  fact  that  it  must  be  washed  and  bunched 


LEEK.  107 

for  market,  it  is  not  a  desirable  crop  to  grow  for  shipping, 
as  in  this  state,  it  soon  heats  when  packed,  and  quickly 
decays.  Gardeners  prefer  American-grown  seed,  and 
hence  I  notice  it  here  more  particularly,  as  being  of  in- 
terest to  the  seed-grower. 

Sowing  Seed  and  Growing  the   Plants.  — Early  in 

spring  select  a  piece  of  rich  ground ;  plow,  harrow,  and 
rake  fine  ;  mark  rows  with  the  ten-inch  marker,  one  and 
a  half  inch  deep  ;  sow  the  seeds  moderately  thin,  and 
cover  by  raking  in.  One  ounce  of  seed  will  produce  four 
thousand  plants.  When  well  up,  work  between  the 
rows  with  a  push  hoe ;  remove  all  weeds  in  the  rows  by 
hand ;  afterward  give  a  deep  hoeing  and  keep  free  from 
weeds. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  leek  requires  a  strong, 
very  rich  soil,  and  is  generally  grown  after  a  crop  which 
has  been  very  highly  manured.  The  early  crop  being  re- 
moved, clean  off  all  weeds  and  rubbish,  plow  deep,  harrow 
fine,  and  smooth  with  the  back  of  the  harrow,  mark  rows 
with  the  fifteen-inch  marker,  and  be  prepared  for  a  wet 
day  for  transplanting.  This  plant  is  not  so  sensitive  to 
drouth  as  some  others,  and  may  be  set  when  the  earth  is 
only  moderately  wet,  when  celery,  for  instance,  could  not 
be  set  out  with  safety. 

Planting  and  Cultivation. — The  season  of  planting  is 
the  latter  part  of  July.  The  plants  may  be  set  six  inches 
apart  in  the  rows  already  marked  out,  requiring  about 
seventy  thousand  for  an  acre. 

The  plants  should  be  raised  by  a  spade,  carefully  drawn 
out,  held  evenly  in  one  hand,  and  the  loose  roots  and 
leaves  cut  back  one  half.  Plant  deep,  pressing  the  earth 
firm  to  the  root  with  the  dibble.  Push-hoe  after  planting, 
and  later  give  a  deep  hoeing,  pulling  all  weeds  from  the 
rows  by  hand;  repeat  the  push-hoeing  and  weeding  oc- 
casionally. 


108  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

Preparing  for  Market, — Dig  the  plants,  peel  oiF  the 
decayed  leaves,  cut  back  the  roots  and  tops,  wash,  and  tie 
in  round  bunches  of  six  to  eight.  Leeks  may  be  stored 
for  winter  the  same  as  celery. 

Seed. — They  are  grown  for  seed  the  same  as  for  market, 
but  should  be  in  beds  of  six  rows  only,  to  facilitate  cut- 
ting. They  stand  the  winter  without  protection,  and  in 
spring  will  require  deep  hoeing,  and  to  be  kept  clean  so 
long  as  they  can  be  worked.  The  after-treatment  is  in 
all  respects  precisely  the  same  as  for  onion  seed,  Avhich  is 
given  in  detail  under  that  head.  The  final  cleaning  must 
be  given  by  No.  18  sieve,  as  the  seed  is  smaller  than  that 
of  the  onion. 

Leek  seed  can  not  be  depended  on  more  than  one  >ear, 
but  if  well  kept  a  fair  proportion  will  germinate  the 
second  season. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  are  not  numerous,  the  most 
jDopular  being  known  among  gardeners  as  the 

Large  Flag. — The  main  point  of  this  is  its  broad  flat 
leaves,  whence  its  name. 

LETTUCE. 

This  is  a  very  important  crop  with  market-gardeners, 
and  large  quantities  are  annually  grown  in  the  open  air, 
and  much  is  grown  during  winter  in  hot-beds,  and  exten- 
sively in  cold-frames,  some  using  over  one  thousand 
sashes  for  this  purpose. 

It  is  quite  perishable,  especially  when  it  has  been  forced, 
hence  it  can  not  be  recommended  as  a  very  desirable 
article  to  send  long  distances  to  market.  It  is,  however, 
of  importance  to  the  seed-grower,  as  large  quantities  of 
seed  are  annually  used,  and  all  gardeners  prefer  the 
American-grown  seed. 

Sowing  Seed  and  Growing  Plants.— Directions  are 
given  for  sowing  the  seed  in  the  fall,  and  wintering  the 


LETTUCE.  109 

plants,  in  the  chapter  on  cold-frames.  This  is  decidedly 
the  best  plan  when  they  are  intended  for  seed,  as  by 
it  each  plant,  when  transplanted,  grows  large,  forms  a 
head,  the  stock  can  be  kept  pure,  and  the  seed  is  pro- 
duced more  abundantly  early  in  the  season,  and  of  better 
quality  than  when  grown  late. 

To  grow  plants  in  a  hot-bed,  prepare  as  directed  under 
that  head,  about  the  middle  of  March ;  level  the  surface, 
put  on  an  inch  of  sifted  soil,  spread  the  seed  thin,  cover 
one  half  an  inch  with  fine  soil,  and  Vv^ater  lightly.  When 
the  plants  are  up,  give  plenty  of  air ;  keep  the  earth 
moist  but  not  wet,  and  before  planting  harden  them  off, 
by  removing  the  sashes  a  few  days  in  advance.  Good 
plants  may  be  grown,  not  quite  so  early,  in  a  cold-frame, 
preparing  and  sowing  the  same  as  in  the  hot-bed,  but  as 
there  is  no  bottom  heat,  the  sashes  must  be  kept  closer. 
It  is  very  important  to  sow  thin,  to  produce  good  stocky 
plants.  An  ounce  to  four  sashes  properly  sown  will  give 
five  to  seven  thousand  plants.  When  it  is  desirable  to 
have  a  succession  of  heads  for  marketing,  the  seed  may 
be  sown  at  intervals,  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  fall  for 
wintering,  as  directed  in  the  chapter  on  cold-frames. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — When  grown  for  market,  let- 
tuce should  have  rich  soil,  but  when  grown  for  seed  one 
half  the  usual  amount  of  manure  will  suffice,  for  I  find 
that  in  very  rich  land  the  stalks  decay  at  the  root  when 
in  blossom,  and  much  loss  is  occasioned  by  blight.  The 
soil  should  be  a  moderately  light  loam. 

To  grow  for  marketing,  apply  forty  two-horse  loads  of 
stable-manure  plowed  in,  or  two  thousand  pounds  of 
bone-flour,  or  one  thousand  pounds  of  guano,  harrowed 
in,  to  the  acre.  For  seed  purposes,  one  half  or  less. 
Plow  deep,  harrow  fine,  and  smooth  with  the  back  of  the 
harrow.     Mark  rows  with  the  fifteen-inch  marker. 

Planting  and  Cultivation. — Set  the  plants  out  as  early 
as  possible  after  the  ground  is  dry  enough  to  work  well. 


110  FARM-GAEDENESTG   AND   SEED-GEOWING. 

and  always  right  after  the  ground  is  prepared,  while  the 
surface  is  still  moist.  Plant  them  fifteen  inches  apart  in  the 
row,  pressing  the  earth  firmly  about  the  root,  but  avoid 
very  deep  planting,  as  lettuce,  to  do  well,  must  be  entirely 
above  ground.  It  may  be  grown  between  the  rows  of 
early  cabbages,  etc.,  and  -will  come  off  in  time  U)  allow 
the  ground  to  be  cultivated  and  worked  for  the  benefit  of 
the  other  crop.  About  twenty-eight  thousand  plants  will 
be  required  for  an  acre,  at  fifteen  inches  each  way,  or 
nearly  forty-four  thousand  at  one  foot  each  w^ay,  at  which 
distance  the  small  varieties  may  be  grown  for  market, 
but  for  seed-growing  they  require  room  to  branch  out, 
and  the  distance  first  named  is  preferable.  "Work  with  a 
push-hoe  both  ways  ;  later,  hoe  thoroughly  and  deeply,  re- 
moving weeds  from  about  the  plants  by  hand.  An  addi- 
tional push-hoeing  will  usually  sufiice  to  carry  the  crop 
through  clean,  except  in  seed-growing,  when  it  may  be 
necessary  to  go  through  with  a  narroio  push-hoe,  when 
the  plants  are  nearly  in  bloom.  Hardy  lettuce  may  be 
sown  thinly  in  rows  fifteen  inches  apart  about  the  middle 
of  September,  and  by  lightly  covering  with  coarse  litter 
or  straw  will  survive  the  winter,  and  may  be  cut  in  spring 
and  sold  by  measure,  or  thinned  and  allowed  to  head. 
The  tender  varieties  may  also  be  sown  in  the  same  man- 
ner early  in  spring,  and  be  marketed  in  the  same  way. 

Forcingi — To  grow  lettuce  in  winter,  make  a  hot-bed 
with  five  or  six  inches  of  soil,  and  when  tempered,  set 
out  the  plants,  about  eight  inches  apart  each  way. 

This  should  be  made  in  a  very  warm,  sheltered  position, 
and  great  care  is  required  to  guard  against  sudden 
changes.  Air  may  be  given  very  fine  days,  but  as  let- 
tuce under  glass  is  hardly  expected  to  head^  it  may  be 
forced  rapidly,  and  a  well-made  hot-bed  will  bear  a  second 
crop.  Gardeners  about  New  York  grow  lettuce  exten- 
sively in  cold-frames.  In  addition  to  the  frame  in  which 
the  plants  are  preserved,  they  have  spare  frames  which 


LETTUCE.  Ill 

are  covered  with  coarse  manure  or  litter  in  the  fall,  and 
during  February  and  March  this  is  removed,  the  earth 
spaded  up,  and  the  plants  set  about  eight  inches  each 
way,  covered  by  sashes,  and  afterwards  treated  as  cold- 
frames,  except  as  the  object  is  to  force  the  plants  they  are 
kept  quite  close,  and  allowed  more  moisture. 

Marketing. — When  the  plants  have  formed  heads 
(which,  by  the  way,  never  get  solid  as  that  term  is  ap- 
plied to  cabbage),  they  are  fit  to  cut.  This  applies  to 
open-air  culture,  those  growing  under  glass  seldom  form- 
ing much  head.  Cut  them  close  to  the  ground  ;  remove 
to  the  market-house ;  trim  off  the  outer  or  decayed 
leaves ;  rinse  in  clean  water,  and  pack  lightly  in  well- 
ventilated  barrels. 

Seed. — When  the  stock  is  pure,  there  is  little  choice  to 
be  made.  It  is  best  to  go  over  the  bed  when  the  heads 
are  in  their  prime,  and  remove  all  such  as  will  not  head 
or  that  show  signs  of  impurity,  if  any  there  be.  For 
stock  seed,  select  such  as  are  extra  fine,  and  by  the  side 
of  each  head  firmly  set  a  tail  stick  as  a  mark,  when 
the  seed  from  all  such  plants  may  be  saved  by  itself. 
When  the  seed  is  ripe,  the  heads  in  which  it  is  contained 
become  plump  and  yellow,  but  as  it  ripens  very  un- 
evenly, the  only  way  is  to  average  the  whole.  For 
instance,  some  stalks  will  show  more  than  one  half  of 
the  heads  to  be  ripe,  when  the  stalk  must  be  cut  off, 
although  there  may  be  blossoms  still  on  the  same  plant ; 
but  if  left  for  these  blossoms  to  set  and  ripen,  the  first 
and  best  seed  will  fall  out  and  be  lost.  The  stalks  will 
require  two  or  three  cuttings,  as  some  will  be  more 
advanced  than  others.  The  small  branches  to  which  the 
seed-heads  are  attached  must  be  cut  from  the  stalks 
upon  cloths,  exposed  to  the  sun  until  dry,  and  thrashed. 
The  cleaning  of  lettuce-seed  is  often  quite  tedious,  espe- 
cially if  there  be  much  wet  weather  when  the  blossoms 
are   shedding,   for.  then  they  are   apt   to   curl   up   and 


112  FAEM-GARDEXING   AND   SEED-GKOWING. 

adhere  to  tlie  seed-head,  forming  a  ball  of  about  the 
same  size  and  weight  as  the  seed,  which  renders  the 
separation  quite  troublesome. 

When  the  seed  is  thrashed,  remove  the  stems  by  raking 
off.  There  will  always  be  some  heads  not  thrashed ; 
these  must  be  separated  from  the  seed  by  'No.  5  sieve, 
put  into  a  bag,  and  again  thrashed. 

The  whole  may  be  sifted  with  Nos.  8,  10,  and  14  sieves 
in  succession,  each  time  gathering  the  chaff  from  the  top, 
and  casting  away  the  litter  remaining  in  the  sieve.  The 
work  may  be  assisted  by  sifting  on  cloths  in  the  open  air, 
with  a  gentle  breeze  stirring  to  carry  away  the  small 
chaff;  or  where  large  quantities  are  grown,  the  fan-mill 
may  be  brought  in  use,  but  the  sieves  will  in  all  cases  be 
required  to  perfect  the  cleaning. 

Give  the  final  touch  with  sieve  No.  24,  which  will 
remove  the  heavy  dust  or  sand,  and  put  away  in  bags. 

Lettuce-seed  will  germinate  when  three  years  old. 

VarietieSt — The  varieties  are  numerous,  though  but 
few  kinds  are  in  general  cultivation  in  this  country,  and 
these  are  quite  distinct. 

Early  Curled  Silesia.— This  was  formerly  the  leading 
variety,  and  the  seed  is  still  extensively  sold  in  seed- 
stores,  but  with  market-gardeners  superseded  by  the 
"  Simpson,"  which  it  resembles,  though  smaller  and  not 
as  certain  to  head. 

Simpson's  Silesia. — An  improvement  on  the  "  Silesia," 
originated  some  years  ago  by  a  market-gardener  then  at 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  whose  name  the  variety  still  bears. 
Heads  large  and  full;  leaves  spreading,  clear  greenish 
yellow,  curled,  crisp,  and  tender.  The  main  variety  for 
forcing,  and  the  general  favorite  about  New  York. 

Wbite-seeded  Bnttcr. — Heads  small,  compact,  and  solid; 
lively  rich  yellow;  leaves  smooth  and  close;  excellent 
flavor,  unsurpassed  for  summer  culture. 


MELO]Sr.  113 

Black-seeded  Batter. — Heads  medium,  prominent,  and 
solid;  rich  yellow;  flavor  excellent;  leaves  spreading, 
dark  green  ;  valuable  for  second  early. 

Curled  India. — Heads  large  and  prominent,  compact 
but  not  very  solid;  leaves  curled,  spreading;  color, 
greenish  yellovs^,  with  a  distinct  brown  tinge.  The  best 
curled  variety  for  summer  culture. 

Hardy  Green  or  Winter.--This  is  the  most  hardy  of 
all  the  varieties,  and  is  frequently  sown  in  September, 
in  rows  covered  lightly  with  straw,  and  in  the  spring 
marketed  as  *'  cut "  lettuce,  and  sold  by  measure.  Heads 
medium  size  and  compact,  tough ;  leaves  flat  and  spread- 
ing, dull  green,  brown-tinged;  heads  up  very  quick  in 
spring,  and  used  to  some  extent  to  plant  among  early 
cabbages,  but  is  not  salable  when  the  "  Simpson  "  comes 
in  abundance. 

MELON— Musk. 

Melons  are  not  grown  in  market-gardens,  but  for 
farm-gardens  are  an  important  crop,  as  they  may  be 
shipped  any  reasonable  distance,  and  usually  command 
paying  prices,  especially  when  grown  early. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  soil  best  adapted  to  musk- 
melons  is  a  light  loam,  and  they  do  well  in  such  as  is 
largely  composed  of  sand.  Old  sward  land  is  preferable 
to  fallow  ground. 

The  land  should  be  plowed,  well  harrowed,  and  fur- 
rowed out  six  feet  one  way  by  three  feet  the  other. 

At  the  intersections,  put  a  shovelful  of  well-rotted 
manure  or  compost,  and  thoroughly  mix  it  with  the  soil, 
drawing  a  little  fine  soil  over  the  whole,  making  the  hill 
broad  and  flat,  slightly  concave  in  the  center,  to  receive 
the  seed.  The  season  of  planting  is  from  the  first  to  the 
twentieth  of  May,  and  to  avoid  a  useless  repetition,  I 
would  say  that  the  planting  and  after-cultivation  is  the 


114  FAKM-GAEDENIJ^G    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

same  as  directed  for  cucumbers.  They  arc  liable  to  be 
attacked  by  the  same  "striped-bug,"  against  -which  I 
advise  the  same  precaution  and  remedy.  In  fact,  the 
general  remarks  in  regard  to  the  cucumber  arc  applicable 
to  this  plant. 

Gathering  for  Market. — Muskmelons  arc  marketable 
only  before  they  turn  yellow,  and  are  ripe  when  the  stem 
cracks  away  from  the  fruit,  at  which  time  they  should  be 
gathered  and  carefully  placed  in  barrels  for  shipping. 
They  must  be  gathered  every  day  during  their  season,  for 
they  soon  become  yellow  and  soft  after  they  are  ripe. 

Seed. — When  intended  for  seed,  melons  need  not  be 
gathered  until  quite  yellow. 

They  should  be  cut  open,  the  seeds  scraped  out  and 
treated  the  same  as  cucumber-seed.  The  fruit  after  the 
seed  is  removed  serves  as  an  excellent  food  for  cattle 
and  hogs. 

Stock  seed  should  be  saved  from  the  earliest  and  best 
flavored  of  those  which  are  used  for  home  consumption. 
The  seed  is  good  for  ten  years. 

Varieties. — The  distinct  varieties  arc  not  numerous, 
though  there  are  many  sub-varieties  of  almost  every 
sort. 

Citron. — Fruit  of  medium  size,  nearly  round,  flattened 
at  the  ends ;  skin  green  and  much  netted ;  flesh  thick 
and  fine  flavored. 

Nutmeg. — Fruit  oval,  whence  the  name;  otherwise, 
very  similar  to  the  above. 

Skillman'S  Fine-netted. — Fruit  round,  medium  size; 
skin  green  and  very  closely  netted,  whence  the  name; 
flesh  thick,  fine-grained,  and  excellent ;  onp  of  the  very 
best  varieties, 

Allen's  Superb. — A  sub-variety  of  the  citron,  Fruit 
very  large ;  skin  green  and  much  netted ;  flesh  thick, 
green,  solid,  and  excellent. 


MELOX.  115 

Early  Christiana. — Fruit  medium  size ;  skin  dark  green, 
seldom  netted ;  flesh  deep  yellow,  thick,  fine-grained,  and 
excellent.  Valuable  for  private  gardens,  but  on  account 
of  the  color  not  very  salable. 

White  Japan. — Fruit  small  to  medium;  skin  smooth, 
white,  and  seldom  netted  ;  flesh  white,  and  of  fair  quality. 

Lon^  Persian* — Fruit  large,  often  ten  to  twelve  inches 
in  length;  skin  green,  somewhat  netted;  flesh  thick, 
green,  and  well-flavored. 

MELON"— Water. 

Like  the  precedhig,  this  is  an  important  crop  for  the 
farm-garden  where  the  soil  is  suitable,  and  large  quan- 
tities are  annually  brought  from  the  Southern  States  to 
our  Northern  markets  by  vessel,  which,  by  the  way,  is  a 
very  convenient  way  of  shipping  where  such  means  are 
at  command.  They  are  also  extensively  grown  in  New 
Jersey,  and  in  other  sections  North  where  the  soil  is 
adapted  to  them. 

Soil  and  Preparation, — The  soil  should  be  light,  more 
sandy  than  otherwise,  and  new  ground  or  old  sward-land 
is  far  the  best. 

•  The  season  of  planting  is  the  same  as  for  muskmelons, 
and  the  preparation  the  same,  except  the  hills  should  be 
twice  as  far  apart,  that  is,  six  by  twelve  feet,  and  one 
half  more  manure  may  be  added  to  advantage. 

The  remarks  in  the  preceding  article  on  muskmelons, 
in  regard  to  cultivation,  may  be  applied  to  these. 

Gathering  for  Market, — Watermelons  should  be 
marketed  when  ripe^  for  if  allowed  to  become  over-ripe 
the  flesh  will  become  mealy  and  nearly  tasteless.  The 
question  may  here  arise :  '^  When  is  a  watermelon  ripe  ?  " 
Some  judge  by  the  curl  at  the  stem,  which  becomes  dry 
when  the  fruit  is  ripe,  but  it  sometimes  happens  that  the 
curl,  and  even  a  part  or  the  whole  of  the  vine,  dies,  and 


116  FARM-GARDENING    AND    SEED-GROWING. 

the  melon  is  still  green,  hence  this  is  not  a  sure  test. 
Others  press  the  melon  with  the  hand,  and  if  ripe  the 
flesh  within  cracks,  which  may  be  known  by  the  sound 
emitted;  but  this  is  injurious  to  the  fruit,  and  hence 
objectionable.  The  surest  and  safest  test  is  by  sight, 
feeling,  and  sounding,  which,  however,  requires  some 
practice  and  experience  to  enable  one  to  judge  unmis- 
takably. When  ripe,  the  color  of  the  skin  is  duller  than 
when  growing,  .the  rind  or  outer  flesh  is  spongy  when 
growing,  but  firm  when  mature,  and  there  is  a  peculiar 
sound  created  within  the  ripe  fruit  when  smartly 
"  snapped "  by  the  middle  finger  which  can  not  be 
described,  but  with  which  the  ear  soon  becomes  familiar 
by  practice. 

Therefore,  the  only  way  to  acquire  facility  in  this  is 
to  notice  the  color,  compare  the  feeling  and  sound  between 
known  unripe  and  supposed  ripe  fniit,  and  determine  by 
cutting  the  latter.  But  very  few  trials  will  give  the 
requisite  knowledge,  and  these  may  be  made  on  the  first 
melons  before  enough  are  ripe  to  make  it  an  object  to 
market  them,  and  what  few  may  be  spoiled  will  be  more 
than  paid  for  in  the  knowledge  gained,  which  once 
acquired  can  never  be  forgotten. 

Seed. — Those  intended  for  seed  can  be  left  until  "  dead- 
ripe,"  and  when  removed  to  the  barn  they  will  make  a 
good  job  for  a  rainy  day,  when  the  seeds  can  be  scraped 
out,  placed  in  barrels,  and  after  fermenting  three  days  be 
washed  out,  using  No.  2  sieve,  and  otherwise  treated  as 
directed  for  cucumber-seed. 

Attention  should  be  paid  to  selecting  the  best  and 
finest  flavored  specimens  for  stock  seed.  The  seed  retains 
its  vitality  ten  years. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  are  quite  numerous,  and  many 
are  quite  distinct.  They  easily  mix  in  the  blossom,  lience 
the  necessity  of  growing  difierent  varieties  at  long  dis- 
tances from  each  other,  and  to  avoid  growing  them  near 


OKEA.  117 

cucumbers,  pumpkins,  or  the  like,  witli  which  they  may 
become  mixed  and  spoiled. 

Mountain  Sweet. — This  has  long  been  a  very  popular 
and  leading  market  variety.  Fruit  large,  long,  and  slen- 
der, narrower  near  the  stem  than  elsewhere ;  skin  rather 
dark,  sometimes  marbled  with  various  shades  of  green ; 
flesh  bright  red,  solid,  and  well-flavored;  seeds  dark 
brown  and  drab-mottled. 

Mountain  Sprout. — Another  very  popular  variety.  In 
size,  shape,  and  flesh,  similar  to  the  Mountain  Sweet; 
skin  striped  and  marbled  with  light  and  darker  green ; 
seeds  dun-colored. 

Black  Spanish. — Once  very  popular,  but  now  rarely  to 
be  found  pure.  Fruit  large,  and  nearly  round,  somewhat 
ribbed ;  skin  very  dark  green  ;  flesh  bright  scarlet,  crisp, 
and  fine  flavored;  seeds  nearly  black,  tinged  with  brown 
at  the  small  end. 

Gipsy* — A  comparatively  new  variety.  Fruit  medium 
size,  oval,  and  evenly  formed ;  skin  beautifully  marbled 
with  pale  green  and  dull  white ;  flesh  rosy  red,  crisp,  and 
most  excellently  flavored  ;  seeds  small,  pale,  dun-colored, 
distinctly  marked  with  brown  at  the  small  end. 

Citron* — This  variety  is  grown  and  sold  to  some  extent 
for.jDreserving.  Fruit  small,  round,  and  even;  skin  light 
and  dark  green,  striped  and  marbled;  flesh  pinkish  white, 
solid,  and  without  flavor  ;  seeds  red. 

OKRA. 

Okra  or  Gombo  is  most  generally  grown  at  the  South. 
I  well  remember,  when  my  father  was  engaged  in  market- 
gardening  he  always  planted  a  few  rows  of  okra,  and  the 
product  was  readily  sold  in  New  York  at  remunerative 
prices,  and  there  is  no  doubt  a  limited  quantity  may  be 
annually  grown  in  the  farm-garden  with  profit. 


118  TARM-GAEDENING   AKD   SEED-GROWING. 

Cultiyation* — It  requires  plenty  of  manure  and  light 
soil,  and  may  be  cultivated  in  the  same  manner  as  sweet 
corn.  The  seeds  should  not  be  planted  before  the  middle 
of  May.  It  is  well  to  use  plenty  of  seed,  as  some  are 
liable  to  rot,  and  when  the  plants  are  nicely  up  thin  to  four 
in  a  hill,  or  twelve  inches  apart  when  grown  in  rows. 

Cutting  for  Market. — The  pods  are  edible  when  about 
half-grown,  or  before  the  upper  part  has  become  hard, 
when  they  should  be  cut  and  shipped  in  open  barrels. 

Seed. — The  pods  are  ribbed,  and  contain  an  abundance 
of  seeds,  which  lay  in  rows  under  each  rib.  When  ripe, 
which  may  be  known  by  the  pods  cracking  open,  they 
should  be  cut  and  put  in  a  loft  to  dry,  when  they  may 
be  thrashed  in  bags,  or  opened  by  hand,  giving  the  pod  a 
sudden  twist,  and  shelling  the  seeds  into  a  sieve.  I  much 
prefer  this  plan,  as  the  seeds  are  not  so  apt  to  be  broken, 
and  the  work  may  be  done  of  evenings,  rainy  days,  or  at 
odd  spells. 

It  can  be  easily  cleaned  by  the  fan-mill  or  a  good  breeze 
and  a  No.  8  sieve.  The  seed  is  not  good  more  than  two 
years. 

Varieties. — ^The  varieties  usually  grown  are  the  "  tall  " 
and  "  dwarf,"  the  former  growing  six  feet  high,  and  pro- 
ducing long  slender  pods  ;  the  latter  three  feet  high,  with 
short  thick  pods,  and  is  considered  more  productive  than 
the  former,  which  however  produces  the  most  showy  pods 
for  market. 

ONION. 

This  is  a  very  important  crop,  both  to  the  market-gar- 
dener and  for  the  farm-garden.  Its  culture  is  simple,  the 
demand  large,  and  the  crop  most  generally  a  paying  one. 
Perhaps  I  cannot  express  myself  more  comprehensively  on 
this  subject  than  to  give  entire  an  article  entitled  "  Onion 


ONION.  119 

Culture "  which  I  wrote  for  the  "  Grcenpoint  (L.  T.) 
Times,"  with  some  additional  remarks. 

"  The  high  price  obtained  for  this  vegetable  for  several 
years  past  has  attracted  the  attention  of  farmers  in  those 
sections  where  the  soil  and  climate  are  adapted  to  its  cul- 
tivation. South  of  New  York,  as  a  rule,  onions  can  not 
be  grown  to  any  degree  of  perfection,  direct  from  the  seed, 
not  even  in  the  market-gardens  of  Kew  Jersey,  and  the 
vicinity  of  ]N"ew  York  City,  and  those  adjacent  to  Phila- 
delphia, all  of  which,  perhaps,  contain  the  finest  garden- 
ing soil  in  the  United  States, 

'•  Gardeners  in  the  sections  named,,  find  it  necessary  to 
use  what  are  termed  *  sets,'  which  are  produced  by 
sowing  the  seed  very  thick,  in  rather  poor  soil,  and  in  mid- 
summer ;  when  the  tops  become  dry,  they  are  taken  up 
with  trowel  and  sieve,  placed  thinly  in  lofts  to  dry,  and 
upon  the  approach  of  very  cold  weather  put  in  lieaps  and 
covered  with  straw  mats,  straw,  or  hay. 

"  During  the  fall  they  are  overhauled,  and  all  that  are 
much  larger  than  a  marble  are  taken  out  and  sold  for 
'pickling  onions,'  or  sometimes  are  planted  about  the 
first  of  September,  becoming  quite  strong  by  winter,  and 
are  sold  early  in  spring  as  green  onions.  These  larger 
sets,  or  ^  rareripes,'  as  they  are  usually  called,  would  run 
to  seed  in  time,  so  they  must  be  disposed  of  before  the 
seed-stalks  form.  The  small  sets  are  planted  as  early  in 
spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked.  The  land  is  kept 
rich  by  being  every  year  very  highly  manured.  It  is 
plowed  deep,  finely  harrowed,  and  smoothed,  and  rows 
marked  out  with  a  drill  containing  seven  to  ten  teeth, 
set  ten  inches  apart.  The  sets  are  placed  about  two 
inches  apart  in  the  rows,  pressed  in  with  the  thumb 
and  finger,  and  raked  over  with  a  wooden  rake.  Six  rows 
constitute  a  bed,  every  seventh  drill  being  left  for  a  path, 
from  which  three  rows  on  either  side  can  be  weeded  at  a 
time.      The   onions  from  these  sets   arc  sold   mostly  in 


120  FARM-GARDENIXG    AXD    SEED-GROWING. 

bunches  while  green,  to  clear  the  ground  for  a  second 
crop,  some  being  left  to  dry,  for  as  they  mature  much 
earlier  than  those  in  sections  where  they  are  produced 
direct  from  s^ed,  usually,  command  high  prices. 

"  Onion  sets  form  an  important  article  in  the  stock  of 
seedsmen,  as  they  send  thousands  of  bushels  to  the 
Southern  States  annually. 

"  The  soil  and  climate  of  the  eastern  part  of  Long  Island, 
and  those  portions  of  the  New  England  States  bordering 
on  the  Sound  and  salt-water  bays,  seem  to  be  especially 
adapted  to  the  production  of  onions  from  seed,  and  there 
is  perhaps  no  better  fertilizer  for  this  crop  than  sea-weed, 
BO  abundant  in  these  waters,  worked  over  in  the  hog-pen, 
and  composted  with  stable-manure,  muck,  fish,  etc.  A 
top-dressing  of  guano,  ashes,  or  bone-flour  will  be  bene- 
ficial in  forwarding  the  crop,*  unless  the  land  is  very  rich. 
To  grow  onions  from  seed,  select  a  piece  of  light  loamy 
land,  no  larger  than  can  positively  have  perfect  attention, 
and  let  it  be  such  as  is  naturally  free  from  weeds,  and  if 
well  manured  the  previous  year  so  much  the  better. 

"  If  it  has  not  been  fall-plowed,  let  it  be  cleared  of  all 
vines,  grass,  or  rubbish ;  plow  in  narrow  furrows  eight 
inches  deep,  harrow  thoroughly,  and  smooth  with  the 
back  of  the  harrow,  then  apply  the  manure,  forty  two- 
horse  loads  to  the  acre,whicli  should  be  partly  decomposed  ; 
spread  it  evenly,  and  plow  again. 

"  In  replowing  have  the  manure  scraped  into  the  furrows, 
that  it  may  be  all  covered ;  apply  guano,  bone,  or  ashes  if 
to  be  used,  again  harrow  well,  and  smooth  the  surface. 
Stretch  a  line  straight  on  either  side,  and  mark  the  rows 
with  a  drill  made  in  the  shape  of  a  T?  ^^ith  wooden  teeth 
nailed  on  the  cross-piece,  any  required  distance  apart,  lap- 
ping the  outer  tooth  in  the  inner  drill,  and  so  on  until  the 
bed  is  finished. 

"  I  adopt  the  plan  described  above,  that    is,  ten-inch 


ONION.  121 

rows,  leaving  every  seventh  drill  for  a  path,  but  some 
prefer  twelve  and  others  fourteen  and  sixteen  inches  space 
between  the  rows,  sowing  every  drill.  Use  a  seed-sower 
for  depositing  the  seed,  as  it  can  be  done  easier,  quicker, 
and  more  evenly  than  by  band,  and  cover  with  a  common 
wooden  rake.  From  three  to  five  pounds  of  seed  will  be 
required  for  an  acre,  and  until  the  ground  has  become 
rich  sow  very  thin. 

"  The  same  land  may  be  used  for  an  indefinite  time.  Be 
sure  to  use  only  new  seed,  as  it  is  not  sure  to  grow  the 
second  year,  and  is  entirely  worthless  thereafter.  As 
soon  as  the  rows  can  be  plainly  seen,  loosen  the  soil 
with  a  push  or  scuffle  hoe,  running  close  to  the  rows,  and 
when  necessary  weed  in  the  rows  by  hand,  repeating  as 
often  as  requisite  to  keep  clean,  but  avoid  cutting  the 
onions  as  they  begin  to  form.  The  common  hoe  may  be 
used  to  advantage  the  second  cleaning,  to  loosen  the  soil. 
Should  there  be  places  where  they  are  in  bunches,  which 
sometimes  will  happen,  they  may  be  thinned  to  one  or 
two  inches  apart.  When  the  tops  have  become  nearly 
dry  pull  the  onion,  lay  in  rows,  and  when  thoroughly  dry 
cut  away  the  tops  and  store  the  onions  in  a  cool,  dry 
place,  if  they  are  to  be  kept,  choosing  a  dry  time  for  this 
business.  Unless  one  has  suitable  storage  room  it  is  as 
well  to  sell  the  crop  from  the  field,  and  though  the  price 
may  not  be  so  high  as  in  winter  or  spring  yet  the  risks  of 
spoiling  are  avoided.  The  main  varieties  of  onions  are 
Large  Red,  Yellow  Dutch,  Yellow  Danvers,  and  White 
Portugal ;  the  first  being  considered  the  best  for  main 
crop  from  seed,  and  is  the  favorite  in  market,  the  second 
the  most  suitable  for  sets. 

"  In  conclusion  I  would  say  to  those  who  contemplate 
onion  culture,  try  it  on  a  small  scale  at  first,  and  after 
ascertaining  by  experience  the  amount  of  labor  necessary 
to  be  performed  on  a  given  quantity  of  land,  cost  of 
manures,  etc.,  as  well  as  the  amount  of  money  to  be 
6 


122  FAEM-GAKDENING  AND   SEED-GEOWHSTG. 

realized  from  a  crop,  it  can  be  determined  whether  it 
will  pay." 

The  foregoing  article  explains  the  general  method  of 
growing  the  crop,  but  as  I  propose  to  make  every  subject 
complete,  I  will  also  give  directions  for  marketing,  grow- 
ing the  seed,  etc. 

Preparing  for  Market*  —  The  ripe  onions  may  be 
shipped  in  bags  or  barrels,  and  should  only  be  packed 
when  thoroughly  dry. 

Green  onions  from  sets  are  marketed  in  bunches  when 
scarcely  half-grown,  and  from  thence  until  the  tops  are 
dry,  using  twelve  to  a  bunch  at  iirst,  and  reducing  the 
number  to  six  or  seven  as  they  increase  in  size. 

It  is  well  to  use  such  as  show  signs  of  running  to  seed, 
first,  as  they  do  not  form  large  bulbs,  but  arc  quite  as 
good  as  any  when  young. 

The  onions  must  bo  pulled,  removed  to  the  market- 
house,  divested  of  decaying  outer  leaves,  nicely  washed, 
and  tied  in  round  bunches. 

When  the  tops  have  become  partially  dry  and  the  bulb 
nearly  ripe,  they  may  be  bunched  without  washing. 

Growing  Sets*  —  Onion  sets  now  form  an  important 
article  in  the  seedsman's  stock,  and  may  be  grown  with 
profit  by  the  seed-grower  who  has  land  suited  to  their 
production. 

The  ground  should  be  of  a  light  character,  free  from 
stones  or  gravel,  in  good  condition,  though  not  rich,  and 
be  prepared  the  same  as  directed  for  growing  the  onions,  ex- 
cepting of  course  the  manure.  Sow  very  early  in  the  spring. 
Mark  out  rows  ten  inches  apart,  sowing  six  rows  to  abed, 
and  leaving  every  seventh  for  a  path,  using  thirty  pounds 
of  seed  to  the  acre,  that  they  may  be  very  thick,  to  pre- 
vent them  growing  large,  the  object  of  which  has  been 
already  explained,  and  I  may  here  add  that  the  smaller 
the  sets  the  better,  and  the  higher  price  they  will  com- 


ONION.  123 

mand,  those  scarcely  larger  than  Marrowfat  peas  being 
preferred  by  gardeners  to  a  larger  size. 

They  must  be  kept  scrupulously  clean,  and  if  the 
growth  is  over-rank  the  tops  must  be  pressed  down  by 
rolling,  or  otherwise,  to  cause  the  roots  to  "  bulb." 
,  When  the  tops  are  partially  dry,  cut  or  shear  them  off, 
lift  the  sets  by  running  a  trowel  under  them,  casting  into 
a  No.  3  sieve,  by  which  the  earth  can  be  removed.  Ex- 
pose them  for  a  few  days  to  the  sun  and  air,  covering  at 
night.  When  fairly  dry,  store  in  lofts,  three  or  four 
inches  thick,  and  upon  the  approach  of  cold  weather  place 
them  in  heaps  and  cover  with  mats  or  straw. 

When  needed  for  sale  or  use,  run  them  once  or  twice 
through  the  fan-mill.  They  should  not  be  moved  or 
handled  while  in  a  partially  frozen  state,  nor  kept  long  in 
bulk  after  the  cold  weather  is  past. 

Seed* — Onions  for  seed  are  grown  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  market,  and  may  be  stored  and  wintered  over  as 
directed  for  sets. 

They  are,  however,  when  full  grown,  more  easily  injured 
by  hard  freezing  than  the  sets,  consequently  a  warm  place 
must  be  selected,  and  more  protection  be  given,  especially 
with  the  White  Portugal,  which  is  very  susceptible  of  in- 
jury from  freezing.  The  selections  should  be  made  in 
accordance  with  the  form,  color,  and  general  distinguishing 
points  of  the  variety,  and  a  few  extra  choice  specimens  be 
planted  for  stock  seed.  The  soil  in  which  to  grow  onion 
seed  should  be  moderately  rich,  but  if  over-abundantly 
manured,  the  blossoms  are  liable  to  blight  and  no  seed  be 
produced. 

As  soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked  in  the  spring, 
plow  and  harrow  thoroughly,  turning  under  a  light  dress- 
ing of  manure,  unless  it  was  well  manured  the  previous 
season.  Plow  furrows  six  inches  deep  and  three  feet 
apart,  in  which  set  the  onions  four  to  six  inches  apart,  and 
cover  with  a  hoe.     Onions  for  seed  maybe  planted  in  the 


124  PAEM-GARDENING  AND   SEED-GROWING. 

summer  to  good  advantage,  in  the  manner  here  given,  pro- 
vided they  can  be  put  out  early,  before  the  first  of  Sep- 
tember, to  insure  a  strong  growth  before  Avinter. 

They  will  stand  the  winter  without  protection,  the  seed 
will  be  produced  earlier  than  by  spring  planting,  and  the 
time  can  be  better  spared  than  at  the  latter  season.  When 
the  seed  is  ripe,  which  may  be  known  by  the  upper  part 
of  the  stalks  together  with  the  seed-pods  becoming  yellow, 
and  a  portion  of  the  latter  bursting  open,  the  heads  must 
be  cut,  placed  in  barrels,  carried  to  the  loft,  and  spread 
thin.  When  thoroughly  dry,  they  may  be  thrashed  and 
passed  through  the  fan-mill. 

By  repeating  this  several  times  the  most  of  the  seed 
will  be  clean,  but  there  will  still  remain  a  part  mixed  with 
such  pods  as  have  become  hard,  which  can  only  be  sepa- 
rated by  washing.  This  is  done  by  placing  a  quantity 
into  a  tub  of  water,  stirring  a  few  moments,  and  gently 
pouring  the  water  off.  This  will  remove  all  pods  and 
light  seed,  and  the  heavy  seed  which  remains  in  the 
bottom  must  be  spread  on  boards  to  dry.  The  whole 
crop  may  be  washed  in  this  manner,  after  twice  running 
through  the  fan-mill,  if  deemed  advisable,  as  it  will  not 
be  injured  by  the  process,  provided  a  clear  bright  day  is 
selected  for  the  purpose,  and  the  seed  for  some  lime  after 
spread  thin  in  a  loft.  It  must  not  be  put  in  bulk  until 
thoroughly  dry. 

The  final  cleaning  may  be  accomplished  by  No.  14  sieve. 
The  seed  can  not  be  depended  on  to  germinate  after  one 
year,  though  a  part  will  grow  at  two  years  old  when  well 
kept. 

VARIETIES. 

Large  Red  Wethersfield. — This  is  the  variety  princi- 
pally grown  from  seed.  Bulb  round  and  broad,  flattened  at 
the  top  ;  skin  deep  red. 


PARSLEY.  125 

Yellow  Danvers. — The  best  of  the  "yellows"  for  grow- 
ing from  seed.  Bulb  nearly  round ;  skin  brownish  yel- 
low. 

Yellow  Dutch. — The  variety  generally  used  for  produc- 
ing sets.  Bulb  round,  broad,  and  flat ;  skin  clear  bright 
yellow. 

White  Portugal.  —  The  leading  "  white "  variety. 
Usually  commands  a  good  price  in  the  market,  but  owing 
to  its  liability  to  mildew,  is  an  uncertain  crop.  Does  not 
keep  well,  and  when  grown  for  seed  should  be  set  out  in 
the  summer  if  any  way  possible.  Bulb  round,  broad,  and 
flat ;  skin  silvery  white,  sometimes  tinged  with  pink. 

Potato  Onion. — Tins  does  not  produce  seed,  but  is  pro- 
pagated by  a  natural  increase  of  from  four  to  six  bulbs, 
which  form  from  the  parent-root.  They  are  the  earliest 
dry  onions  which  come  to  market. 

Plant  early  in  spring,  in  light,  rich  soil,  marking  rows 
fifteen  inches  apart,  three  inches  deep,  setting  the  bulbs 
six  inches  apart,  and  entirely  under  ground.  Around 
these  the  young  bulbs  form  and  grow,  and  they  should  be 
lightly  covered  with  soil,  in  process  of  hoeing.  Keep  free 
from  weeds,  and  when  ripe  treat  the  same  as  those  grown 
from  seed.  They  do  not  keep  well  unless  carefully  pre- 
served. 

PARSLEY. 

The  demand  for  this  vegetable  is  rather  limited,  and  as 
yet  hardly  a  suitable  crop  for  the  farm-garden,  but  as  the 
American  seed  is  generally  preferred,  it  is  here  noticed  as 
being  of  some  importance  to  the  seed-grower.  It  must  be 
sown  quite  early  in  spring,  in  good  soil,  in  the  same  way 
as  carrots,  and  afterward  treated  the  same  as  that  crop. 

When  thinned,  the  plants,  drawn  out,  are  bunched  and 
sold,  and  later  the  leaves  are  cut  from  the  growing  plant 
and  similarly  disposed  of,  a  bunch  consisting  of  about  as 


126  VARM-GARDENIXG   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

much  as  can  be  encircled  by  the  thumb  and  forefinger.  It 
can  be  taken  up  and  preserved  for  winter  use,  or  to  trans- 
plant for  seed  in  trenches,  similar  to  celery,  or  bedded  in 
the  manner  of  preserving  "  late  cabbages  "  for  seed,  par- 
tially burying  the  leaves,  and  covering  lightly  with  coarse 
manure  or  litter.  When  thus  kept,  it  is  taken  out,  washed, 
and  tied  in  bunches  of  three  or  four,  the  root  and  leaves 
entire.  It  can  be  sown  in  cold-frames,  in  rows  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  being  protected  by  sashes,  will  be  fit  to 
cut  in  winter,  at  which  season  it  formerly  paid  enormous 
profits,  but  now  the  supply  exceeds  the  demand. 

Seed« — The  simplest  plan  is,  when  sowing  a  bed  of  car- 
rots or  beets,  to  sow  every  third  row  with  parsley,  thin- 
ning to  six  inches  apart,  which  will  give  it  forty-five 
inches  between  rows  when  the  other  crop  is  removed. 
When  thus  sown,  in  the  fall  go  over  and  cut  out  all  imper- 
fect plants,  ridge  the  earth  to  but  not  over  them,  and  at 
the  approach  of  severe  cold  weather  cover  lightly  with 
coarse  litter,  which  must  be  removed  early  in  the  spring. 
When  taken  up  in  the  fall,  as  previously  noticed,  the  roots 
may  be  set  out  in  four-foot  rows  one. foot  apart,  and  in 
either  case  keep  clean  by  cultivator  and  hoe. 

The  seed  much  resembles  that  of  celery,  grows  and  rip- 
ens the  same,  and  the  directions  given  for  harvesting  and 
cleaning  that  are  applicable  to  this  crop,  using  No.  20 
sieve  for  the  final  cleaning.  The  seed  will  germinate  when 
two  years  old. 

Varieties.  —  The  ''Double  Curled"  and  "Triple 
Curled  "  are  the  varieties  .principally  grown,  the  "  Plain  " 
or  single  leaf  not  being  salable.  The  former  is  the  most 
hardy,  and  generally  grown  for  out-door  crop,  the  second 
being  used  for  growing  under  glass. 

PARSNIP. 

This  is  extensively  grown  by  market-gardeners,  and  is 
one  of  the  leading  root-crops  for  the  farm-garden,  not  only 


PARSNIP.  127 

with  a  view  to  growing  for  market,  on  account  of  its  avail- 
ability for  shipping,  but  it  possesses  valuable  properties 
Avhich  recommend  it  as  a  food  for  stock.  It  generally 
commands  fair  prices,  and  from  the  fact  of  its  being  com- 
paratively non-perishable,  the  market  is  seldom  glutted, 
and  should  this  perchance  occur,  and  continue  through  the 
season,  the  roots  may  be  used  to  advantage  for  feeding 
animals. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — ^Parsnips  require  good,  strong, 
free  soil,  which  may  be  prepared  in  the  manner  directed 
for  carrots,  using  one  half  more  manure,  and  as  the  seed 
is  very  light,  and  naturally  weak  in  the  germ,  thicJc  grow- 
ing is  essential.  They  may  be  sown  from  early  spring 
until  June,  but  early  sowing  is  advisable,  as  the 
seed  will  not  germinate  well  in  hot,  dry  weather.  The 
after-culture  is  exactly  the  same  as  directed  for  car- 
rots, and  in  fact  the  remarks  under  that  head  in 
reference  to  harvesting,  marketing,  etc.,  are  in  the  main 
applicable  to  this  crop.  Parsnips  are  usually  taken  up 
and  stored  late  in  the  fall  to  be  ready  for  winter  market- 
ing, but  they  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  when  grown  solely 
for  seed  may  be  left  until  spring,  when  they  should  be 
taken  up,  selections  made,  and  the  best  transplanted,  and 
cultivated  as  directed  for  carrots,  having  the  rows  four 
feet  apart.  The  seed  should  never  be  grown  in  sections 
where  the  Wild  Parsnip  grows,  as  it  will  mix  and  be 
spoiled.  The  seeds  arc  produced  in  clusters  or  heads,  and 
two  seeds  always  grow  together,  lying  the  one  flat  against 
the  other.  When  these  seeds  part,  the  heads  should  be 
cut,  as  such  are  ripe,  and  after  drying  in  a  loft,  they  can 
be  thrashed,  passed  through  the  fan-mill  twice,  and 
cleaned  by  No.  10  sieve. 

It  ripens  unevenly  and  requires  repeated  cuttings.  It 
will  seldom  germinate  more  than  one  year. 

Varieties, — ^That  known  as  the  "  Long  Smooth  Cup  " 


128  FARM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 

or  ''  Hollow-Crowned  "  is  the  only  variety  grown  to  any 
extent  for  marketing. 

PEA. 

This  is  extensively  cultivated  for  market,  generally  in 
the  farm-gardens  not  very  remote  from  the  place  of  sale, 
except  so  far  as  its  cultivation  in  the  Southern  States  is 
concerned.  There  quantities  are  raised  for  New  York 
and  other  Northern  markets,  and  in  consequence  prices 
for  "  home-grown  "  peas  are  not  %o  good  as  they  might 
be,  were  it  not  for  this  competition. 

Still,  when  Northern  peas  come  to  market  the  others 
soon  disappear,  as  those  fi*esh-picked  are  far  superior  in 
flavor  to  such  as  have  been  shipped.  Early  peas,  for 
Northern  growers,  may  not  be  considered  a  vejy  profitable 
crop  in  general,  but  they  come  in  when  there  is  but  little 
•else  for  market,  and,  as  an  old  Dutch  gardener  once  re- 
marked, they  bring  in  some  "  early  monish,"  and  beside 
the  ground  is  cleared  in  time  and  left  in  good  condition 
for  a  second  crop. 

Marrowfat  peas,  from  their  more  prolific  yield  and 
higher  prices  obtained,  bring  better  returns,  but  the 
land  can  not  be  cleared  so  early. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — ^Peas  require  a  light  soil,  and 
to  get  an  abundant  yield,  a  liberal  quantity  of  manure 
must  be  applied. 

Land  lying  to  the  southward  and  sheltered  from  the 
north  wlhds  is  preferable  for  early  peas,  as  it  is  important 
to  have  them  in  market  as  early  as  possible  to  obtain  the 
best  prices.  Plow  and  harrow  well ;  mark  out  furrows 
six  inclies  deep,  four  feet  apart  for  the  early,  and  five  feet 
for  the  late  varieties. 

Spread  well-rotted  manure  or  compost  in  the  furrows, 
allowing  a  good  shovelful  to  one  yard  of  row. 

Sowing  and  Cultiyation* — Early  peas  must  be  sown  as 


PEA.  129 

soon  as  the  ground  can  be  worked,  and  may  be  the  first 
crop  planted.  Sow  quite  thick  in  the  rows  on  the  ma- 
nure, covering  with  a  rake  or  hoe  to  a  depth  of  three 
inches  or  more.  When  deep  planted,  they  Avill  produce 
the  most.  As  soon  as  they  are  up,  use  the  cultivator  and 
hoe,  which  repeat  twice,  pulling  w^eeds  from  the  rows  by 
hand.  When  grown  on  a  large  scale,  it  will  not  pay  to 
"brush"  the  vines,  and  if  allowed  to  lay  long  in  one 
position,  the  part  of  the  vine  below  "will  rot ;  therefore, 
every  day  or  two  after  the  vines  have  fallen  down  they 
must  be  laid  over  by  means  of  a  hoe-handle,  turning  one 
way  one  day,  and  reversing  the  next.  This  must  be  done 
until  the  peas  are  fit  for  market,  and  when  grown  for 
seed,  continued  occasionally  until  they  are  ripe. 

Marketing'* — When  the  pods  have  filled  out  plump, 
and  before  they  become  hard,  they  are  marketable,  and 
must  be  plucked,  being  careful  not  to  tear  the  vines  out 
in  handling,  and  may  be  put  in  bags  or  open  barrels  for 
shipping,  except  when  sent  long  distances,  in  wh^ch  case 
small  crates  are  preferable,  as  peas  arc  very  liable  to  heat 
and  decay  when  long  packed  in  heavy  bulk.  The  pick- 
ing is  often  done  in  a  great  measure  by  German  women, 
and  where  such  help  can  be  obtained,  it  is  the  best  for 
this  and  similar  purposes. 

Seed. — The  bulk  of  peas  sold  in  this  country  for  seed 
are  grown  in  Europe,  principally  in  England,  w^here  they 
are  produced  quite  cheaply,  and  free  from  the  "bug" 
which  is  so  common  in  American-grown  peas.  The  egg 
of  the  insect  is  laid  in  the  blossom  or  in  the  young  pea, 
where  it  hatches,  producing  an  insect  of  considerable  size 
known  as  the  "pea-bug,"  whicli  eats  its  way  out,  leaving 
a  hole  in  the  pea,  which  spoils  the  appearance,  but  does 
not  in  the  least  affect  the  vitality,  as  the  germ  is  never 
destroyed. 

Gardeners  who  understand  this  jirefcr  American -grown 


130  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

seed  for  early  planting.  The  manner  of  growing  for  seed 
is  the  same  as  for  market,  as  is  also  the  after-treatment. 

When  the  pods  begin  to  dry,  the  seed  is  ripe,  and  the 
vines  must  then  be  pulled,  and  allowed  to  lie  a  day  or  two, 
but  it  is  very  important  to  get  them  thrashed  as  soon  as 
dry,  for  if  they  should  get  wet  after  becoming  ripe,  the 
chances  are  that  much  of  the  seed  will  be  spoiled. 

They  can  be  easily  thrashed  with  a  flail,  taking  care 
not  to  break  the  seed,  and  can  be  readily  cleaned  by  the 
fan-mill. 

They  should  be  spread  thin  in  a  loft,  and  allowed  to 
become  perfectly  dry  before  being  packed. 

The  seed  retains  its  vitality  two  years. 

Varieties. — More  or  less  of  the  choice  European  vari- 
eties are  planted  for  market,  but  the  larger  growers  prefer 
the 

Pliiladelphia  Extra  Early. — This  is  of  good  size,  full, 
plump  pods,  and  the  earliest  variety  grown  which  has  the 
necessary  requisites.     Vine  two  and  a  half  feet. 

Marrowfat— Wliite  and  Black-eyed,— There  are 
many  Marrow  peas,  especially  the  wrinkled  varieties, 
which  are  far  superior  to  these  in  flavor,  but  which 
do  not  possess  the  requisites  for  marketing,  hence 
these  old  varieties  are  still  extensively  cultivated  for  this 
purpose.  Pods  large  and  plump ;  vine  about  four  feet, 
and  abundant  bearers. 

PEPPER. 

Grown  to  some  extent  for  market,  and  almost  univer- 
sally in  private  gardens,  hence  more  or  less  seed  is  in  de- 
mand. The  seed  may  be  sown  in  hot-beds  the  same  as  the 
egg-plant,  it  requiring  considerable  moisture  to  swell 
it;  the  plants  are  to  be  thinned  to  three  inches  each 
way,  or  may  be  transplanted  at  that  distance  into  a  new 
hot-bed.    They  require  a  loamy  soil  and  an  abundance  of 


POTATOES.  131 

manure.  Plant  the  latter  part  of  May,  in  rows  three  feet 
apart,  and  eighteen  inches  between  the  plants. 

Marketing. — The  fruit  is  marketable  when  about  half- 
grown,  though  some  may  be  sold  when  ripe,  and  may  be 
shipped  in  open  barrels  or  crates.  They  should  be  cut 
with  a  part  of  the  stem,  but  never  broken  from  the  plant. 

Seed. — The  seed  is  produced  about  the  core  attached 
to  the  stem  within  the  pods,  and  is  ripe  when  the  pods 
are  red  and  begin  to  shrivel,  at  which  time  the  fruit  may 
be  gathered,  mashed  or  ground,  and  the  seed  washed  out 
the  same  as  that  of  the  egg-plant. 

The  seed  retains  its  vitality  two  years. 

Varieties* — The  varieties  are  quite  numerous,  the  lead- 
ing sorts  being  the  Bell  or  Bull-]N"ose  and  the  Squash. 
They  are  both  red  when  ripe,  the  former  large,  quite 
blunt  and  uneven  at  the  lower  or  blossom  end,  but  some- 
times tapering.  The  latter  is  about  one  third  as  large  as 
the  Bell,  in  shape  broad  and  flat,  very  similar  to  a  Tea- 
plate  squash. 

POTATOES. 

There  is  perhaps  no  vegetable  grown  in  ^vvhich  the 
public  are  so  much  interested  as  the  potato,  and  many 
farmers  count  upon  it  as  one  of  their  main  crops.  Of  late 
years,  however,  the  uncertainty  of  getting  a  crop  renders 
it  hazardous  to  plant  largely. 

To  those  who  have  seen  the  tremendous  yields  of  this 
esculent  in  years  gone  by,  there  naturally  arises  in  their 
minds  the  query :  "  What  is  the  cause  of  the  failure  of 
the  potato-crop  of  late  years  ?  "  "  Is  it  because  the  soil 
has  become  exhausted  of  some  particular  ingredient  ? " 
or  "  Have  the  seasons  changed  sufficiently  to  produce  a 
damaging  effect  ?  "  or  "  Is  it  not  more  likely  the  seed  has 
run  out  by  long-continued  planting  from  the  same  stock, 
and  too  frequently  the  use  of  small  or  inferior  see^,?  " 


132  FARM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

It  is  an  established  fact  that  all  vegetables  are  improved 
by  changing,  that  is,  getting  seed  from  a  distance,  and 
from  soil  and  climate  varying  from  that  in  which  it  is  to 
be  planted.  This  theory  would  seem  to  be  established 
with  regard  to  the  potato  when  we  consider  what  great 
results  have  been  achieved  with  the  new  varieties  recently 
disseminated.  Take  for  instance  the  Early  Rose,  which 
in  some  cases  has  yielded  more  than  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  and  quite  commonly  one  hundred  pounds 
from  one  pound  of  seed.  So  with  the  Peerless,  which  wher- 
ever tried  has  proved  most  excellent.  I  might  also  men- 
tion a  number  of  others  which  gave  much  better  results 
than  the  old  varieties  under  similar  treatment.  It  is  not 
my  object  to  try  to  persuade  farmers  to  discard  the  old 
varieties  and  go  into  new  ones,  though  many  of  the  latter 
are  worth  a  fair  trial,  and  every  grower  should  test  for 
himself.  It  is  quite  natural  for  a  man  when  he  wishes  to 
save  seed  from  garden  vegetables  to  select  the  best.  For 
instafnce,  he  saves  the  finest  and  best  shaped  tomatoes,  the 
longest  and  smoothest  cucumbers,  the  sweetest  m.elons, 
the  smoothest  onions,  and  in  fact  everything  having  the 
best  qualities  according  to  its  kind. 

He  does  this  because  he  knows  they  can  be,  and  are, 
annually  improved  by  this  means,  whereas,  on  the  other 
hand,  the  varieties  would  soon  run  out  if  seed  was  saved 
promiscuously.  This  fact  being  then  universally  established 
in  regard  to  the  vegetables  of  the  garden,  is  it  not  reason- 
able to  attribute  the  failure  of  the  potato  in  a  great  mea- 
sure to  the  continued  planting  of  other  than  choice 
selected'seed  without  change  ? 

Soil,  Preparation,  and  Planting. — ^Early  potatoes,  in 
which  the  farm-gardener  is  more  particularly  interested,  * 
require  a  loamy  soil,  which  should  be  plowed  moderately 
deep,  and  finely  harrowed,  turning  under  thirty  two-horse 
load^  of  well-rotted  manure,  or  harrowing  in  one  tliou- 
sand  pounds  of  bone-flour  or  six  hundred  pounds  of  guano 


POTATOES.  133 

to   tlie  acre.     They  should  be  planted  as  early  in   the 
spring  as  the  ground  can  be  worked. 

Mark  out  furrows  six  inches  deep,  thirty  inches  apart, 
in  which  drop  the  seed  one  foot  apart,  and  cover  with  a 
hoe,  or  throw  a  light  furrow  over  theni  with  the  plow, 
and  level  with  the  back  of  the  harrow.  Fallow  ground 
is  preferable  to  sward  for  early  potatoes,  but  when  sward 
land  is  to  be  used  for  this  crop,  the  seed  may  be  put  in  as 
the  land  is  plowed,  planting  every  third  furrow,  in  the 
manner  that,  farmers  usually  pursue,  covering  only  three 
or  four  inches,  or  the  land  may  be  more  deeply  plowed 
and  furrows  made  as  above,  but  this  can  not  be  so  readily 
done  on  sward  as  on  fallow  ground.  It  is  for  preferable, 
if  possible,  to  plow  the  land  during  August  of  the  preced- 
ing year ;  harrow  well,  and,  if  you  please,  sow  flat  turnips 
broadcast,  giving  at  the  same  time  a  dressing  of  five 
hundred  pounds  of  bone-flour  to  the  acre.  After  the  crop 
is  taken  off,  plow  again,  and  harrow  thoroughly  late  in  the 
fall,  which  will  leave  the  land  in  excellent  condition  for 
the  crop  of  the  following  year.  Where  manure  is  scarce, 
the  furrows  may  be  marked  out  as  first  mentioned,  and 
the  manure,  which  must  be  well-rotted,  spi-ead  in  the  fur- 
rows, a  good  shovelful  to  about  six  feet  of  row,  or  bone- 
flour  or  guano  may  be  applied  lightly  in  the  same  manner. 
In  regard  to  the  various  methods  of  planting,  my  obser- 
vations have  led  me  to  the  following  conclusions.  In  wet 
seasons  those  manured  in  the  row  do  the  best,  and  in  dry 
seasons  those  manured  broadcast  and  plowed  in  give  the 
best  results,  and  in  order  to  get  between  these  two  ex- 
tremes, spread  the  manure  broadcast,  plow  the*  ground, 
and  furrow  out,  as  first  mentioned,  which  I  believe  to  be 
the  very  best  method  of  planting  early  potatoes.  The 
seed  should  not  be  covered  deeply,  but  may  be  slightly 
ridged,  just  before  they  come  in  blossom.  The  ground 
may  be  lightly  harrowed  over  just  as  the  first  sprouts  ap- 
pear  which  will  destroy  the  first  crop  of  weeds.     The 


134  FAKM-GARDENING   AND    SEED-GKOWING. 

after-culture  is  only  to  cultivate  and  hoe  to  keep  free  from 
■weeds.  Various  devices  have  been  invented  for  "dig- 
ging "  potatoes,  biit  with  the  early  ones  at  least,  the  spade 
or  digging-fork  is  the  best.  Considerable  loss  is  sustained 
sometimes  by  the  ravages  of  the  "  grub,"  which  gnaws 
the  surface  of  the  tubers,  thus  disfiguring  them,  and 
totally  unfitting  them  for  marketing. 

A  good  dressing  of  shell-lime  or  ashes  has  a  tendency 
to  destroy  these  pests,  as  well  as  being  otherwise  beneficial 
to  the  crop. 

Always  plant  perfect  seed,  the  largest  and  best  that  can 
be  had.  Cut  so  as  to  leave  two  good  eyes  to  a  piece. 
There  is  much  diversity  of  opinion  on  this  point,  as  well 
as  to  what  length  of  time  a  potato  should  be  cut  before 
planting,  but  I  prefer  the  plan  mentioned,  and  at  such  time 
as  may  be  convenient,  within  a  fortnight  of  the  proposed 
time  of  planting. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  of  potatoes  are  numerous,  and 
new  ones  are  being  constantly  added.  Many  varieties 
have  only  local  reputations,  and  even  the  Early  Rose,  so 
widely  disseminated,  and  such  a  general  favorite,  fails  en- 
tirely with  some  growers ;  hence,  the  only  proper  plan  for 
a  grower  to  determine  which  is  the  best  for  himself  is  to 
try  a  few  of  the  leading  sorts. 

In  growing  potatoes  for  seed,  care  should  be  taken  to 
have  every  variety  true  to  name,  to  use  only  perfect  seed 
in  planting,  and  to  grow  them  in  new  soil  if  possible. 

They  should  be  perfectly  ripe  before  digging,  taken  up 
when  dry,  and  stored  in  pits  or  elsewhere  away  from  frost 
until  wanted,  but  avoid  warm  cellars,  which  may  cause  the 
tubers  to  sprout  and  injure  them  for  seed. 

RADISHES. 

These  vegetables  are  sold  in  immense  quantities  in  all 
markets,  and  many  are  grown  in  the  Southern  States  and 


KADISHES.  135 

shipped  North.  They  are,  however,  of  a  very  perishable 
nature,  and  soon  heat  when  packed  in  bulk. 

Soil,  Preparation,  and  Sowing.— Radishes  to  be  pro- 
duced in  perfection  must  have  light,  warm,  and  rich  soil, 
and  that  which  has  been  previously  well  manured  is  pre- 
ferable to  manuring  at  the  time  of  sowing,  as  in  the  latter 
case  they  are  apt  to  be  attacked  by  a  small  grub,  and  the 
radishes  become,  to  use  the  common  phrase,  "  wormy," 
hence  not  marketable.  If  the  soil  requires  fertilizing  at 
the  time  of  sowing,  use  bone-flour,  one  thousand  pounds 
to  the  acre. 

They  may  be  sown  broadcast,  over  a  bed  of  beets  or 
carrots  just  sown,  and  raked  in  with  them,  and  will  come 
off  in  time  to  allow  the  main  crop  to  be  worked.  This 
plan  is  objectionable,  because  such  crops  are  generally 
sown  on  fresh-manured  land,  hence  the  radishes  are  liable 
to  be  wormy,  and  then  in  gathering  the  bed  must  be 
walked  over,  often  in  wet  weather,  thus  packing  the 
ground,  and  probably  damaging  the  main  crop  more 
than  the  radishes  can  repay.  It  is  far  preferable  to  plow 
and  harrow  the  ground  very  early  in  the  spring,  sow  the 
seed  broadcast,  ten  pounds  to  the  acre,  and  cover  by 
raking  or  light  harrowing.  The  crop  will  be  off  in  time 
to  allow  of  beets  or  carrots  being  sown,  when  the 
manure  necessary  for  those  crops  may  be  applied,^  the 
ground  again  plowed,  which  will  be  of  great  benefit, 
the  seed  sown,  and  when  ready  the  plants  can  be  worked 
without  interruption.  Radishes  may  be  sown  in  hot- 
beds alone,  or  a  few  seeds  be  sprinkled  in  at  the  time 
of  sowing  cabbage  or  lettuce  seeds,  or  they  may  be  sown 
in  a  cold-frame,  after  the  plants  are  removed,  covered 
with  sashes,  and  by  coming  early  command  good  prices. 

The  white  and  yellow  varieties  may  be  sown  at  in- 
tervals during  the  summer,  and  the  Black  Spanish  and 
Chinese  Rose  in  August,  for  winter  use. 

Marketing* — The   long  varieties  must  be  tied  in  flat 


130  FAllM-GAUDENING   AND   SEED-GUOWING. 

bunches  of  from  six  to  nine,  and  the  round  sorts  in 
round  bunches  of  similar  number. 

The  flat  bunches  can  more  easily  be  washed  by  placing 
a  board,  sunken  at  one  end  by  a  weight,  in  a  tub  of 
water,  upon  which  the  bunch  can  be  laid,  and  rubbed 
over  with  a  soft  brush.  The  round  varieties  can  gene- 
rally be  cleaned  by  dipping  a  few  times  in  water,  cither 
before  or  after  bunching. 

Pack  in  barrels,  with  holes  in  the  bottom  to  allow  the 
water  to  escape,  or,  if  for  a  distant  market,  drain  well 
and  pack  in  small,  well-ventilated  crates. 

Seed. — When  grown  for  seed,  sow  in  rows  eighteen 
inches  apart ;  when  well  up,  use  the  push-hoe,  and  when 
of  fair  size  thin  to  six  inches  apart,  leaving  such  only  as 
are  true  to  the  variety,  and  afterward  give  a  deep  hoeing, 
and  remove  all  weeds  from  the  rows  which  may  have 
been  overlooked  at  the  time  of  thinning. 

The  Yellow  Summer,  Spanish,  and  Chinese  varieties 
must  be  sown  in  August,  wintered  in  pits,  and  set  out  in 
spring  the  same  as  turnips.  Gardeners  generally  prefer 
the  European  seed  of  the  scarlet  varieties,  as  they  make 
less  tops  or  leaves,  but  the  American,  one  year  from  the 
European  seed,  produces  far  superior  radishes.  The 
proper  plan  is  to  sow  a  few  rows  of  imported  seed,  and 
from  the  product  sow  for  main  crop  the  next  season  ;  and 
every  year,  beside  the  main  bed,  put  in  a  few  rows  of 
imported  seed  for  stock,  and  so  repeat.  The  imported 
will  not  yield  much  seed  at  first,  but  from  that  a  fair 
crop  may  be  had,  and  this  will  produce  the  finest  radishes, 
but  if  continually  grown  from  the  same  stock,  the  tops 
get  long  and  the  roots  tough  and  spindling.  When  the 
seed  is  ripe,  which  may  be  known  by  the  pods  becoming 
dry,  the  whole  may  be  reaped  or  mowed  off,  and  left  in 
rows,  and  occasionally  turned  until  perfectly  dry,  when 
it  may  be  tlirashed.     The  pods  are  of  a  peculiar  spongy 


KHUBAKB.  3  37 

structure,  and  unless  perfectly  dry  will  not  break,  but 
rather  mash  down  by  thrashing. 

When  thrashed,  the  stalks  can  be  raked  away,  and  the 
seed  easily  cleaned  by  passing  twice  through  the  fan-nlill. 
It  retains  its  vitality  three  years. 

Varieties. — ^The  varieties  are  numerous,  but  few  are 
adopted  by  gardeners,  the  principal  being  the  Scarlets. 

Long  Scarlet. — ^Root  long,  slender,  growing  much 
above  aground ;  color  d^ep  pink,  pale  below^  ground,  white 
at  the  point. 

Scarlet  Turnip-rooted. — ^Root  round,  otherwise  similar 
to  the  above,  rather  deeper  colored. 

White  Summer. — Root  large,  semi-long,  tapering ;  color 
white,  above  ground  greenish,  and  sometimes  pink. 

Yellow  Summer. — Root  large,  nearly  or  quite  round ; 
color  russet  yellow. 

Black  Spanish. — Root  large,  semi-long;  color  dull 
black. 

Rose  Chinese  Winter. — Root  large,  narrow  at  the  top, 
growing  quite  thick  and  flat  at  the  bottom ;  color  deep 
pink  above,  pale  pink  or  rose  below  ground. 

RHUBARB. 

This  is  extensively  sold  in  all  leading  markets,  and  may 
be  shipped  to  advantage  when  carefully  packed. 

It  is  propagated  by  parting  the  roots,  leaving  one  eye 
to  each  piece  of  root. 

The  seeds  rarely  produce  as  good  as  the  parent  variety. 

Soil  and  Planting. — It  requires  very  rich  soil,  and  for 
early,  light  land  and  a  warm  exposure  are  essential,  though 
a  heavy  loam  will  produce  the  largest  stalks.  The  land 
may  be  prepared  the  same  as  directed  for  asparagus,  and 
heavy  dressings  of  manure  must  be  annually  applied. 

Mark  out  furrows  five  feet  apart,  and  set  the  roots  three 


13S  FAKil-GARDEXING   AND    SEED-GROWING. 

feet  in  the  rows,  covering  the  crowns  about  two  inches. 
The  after-cultivation  consists  in  cultivating  and  hoeing, 
and  the  general  manner  of  working  is  the  same  as  directed 
for  asparagus. 

It  may  be  grown  in  a  forcing  pit  by  setting  large  roots 
thick  together,  burying  six  inches  with  fine  manure,  and 
covering  with  sashes,  which  need  seldom  be  opened, 
except  to  apply  water,  which  may  be  applied  often  enough 
to  keep  the  bed  somewhat  moist.  Grown  in  this  way  it 
comes  early  and  commands  good  prices. 

Marketingt — ^Tlie  stalks  must  be  pulled,  trimmed,  tied  in 
bunches  of  three  to  six,  and  the  leaves  cut  away  one  hal£ 
It  may  be  packed  in  ventilated  boxes  for  shipping. 

Seed. — The  seed  is  produced  on  a  tall  stalk  thrown  up 
from  the  center  of  the  plant,  and  when  ripe  and  dry  may 
be  stripped  by  hand. 

The  seed-stalks  should  never  be  allowed  to  grow  when 
leaf-stalks  are  wanted  for  market  The  seed  retains  its 
vitality  two  years. 

Varieties. — The  leading  varieties  are  Linnaeus  for  early 
and  Victoria  for  main  crop. 

SALSIFY    OR    OYSTER-PLANT. 

The  demand  for  this  vegetable  is  steadily  increasing, 
and  considerable  quantities  are  now  sold.  The  seed  is 
difficult  to  grow,  or  rather  to  save,  as  small  birds  are  very 
fond  of  it,  and  attack  it  when  in  the  milk,  while  yet  unfit 
to  gather.  Still,  when  it  can  be  saved  it  is  in  demand, 
as  the  American  seed  is  preferred  to  the  imported. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — The  soil  should  be  light  and 
rich,  and  may  be  prepared  as  directed  for  carrots,  using 
double  the  quantity  of  manure.  The  after-cultivation  is 
the  same  as  for  that  crop. 

Mariieting. — The  roots  must  be  trimmed,  washed,  and 


SPINACH.  139 

tied  in  round  bunches  of  six  to  eight.  It  is  marketable 
in  the  fall,  but  more  generally  used  in  winter,  and  can  be 
put  away  to  use  at  that  season  in  trenches  like  celery,  or 
in  beds  like  late  cabbage  for  seed,  partially  covering  the 
leaves. 

•  Seed. — The  seed  is  produced  the  second  year,  and  the 
plants,  being  perfectly  hardy,  may  remain  in  the  ground 
for  that  purpose. 

The  seed-heads  are  very  similar  to  those  of  the  Dande- 
lion, but  much  larger,  and  like  that,  when  the  seed  is  ripe, 
expand  to  a  head  covered  with  furze.  The  pods  should 
be  cut  when  about  half-open,  cutting  the  furze  away  at 
the  same  time. 

It  must  be  attended  to  several  times  each  day  in  the 
hight,  as  it  will  soon  blow  away  when  fully  expanded. 
It  retains  its  vitality  two  years.     There  are  no  varieties. 

spiisrAcii. 

Extensively  grown  by  market-gardeners,  but  not  a  very 
good  article  for  shipping,  though  it  may  be  grown  to 
advantage  in  localities  not  very  remote  from  market. 

Soil  and  Preparation,— Spinach  does  best  in  a  light 
loam,  which,  to  grow  it  in  perfection,  must  be  highly 
manured.  It  may  follow  early  cabbage,  onions,  or  any 
early  crop  which  has  had  a  liberal  manuring. 

Clear  the  ground,  plow  and  harrow  thoroughly,  and 
smooth  the  surface,  turning  under  twenty  two-horse  loads 
of  stable-manure,  or  harrowing  in  one  thousand  pounds 
of  bone-flour,  or  five  hundred  pounds  of  guano,  to  the 
acre.  Mark  rows  fifteen  inches  apart,  one  inch  and  a  half 
deep,  in  which  sow  the  seed  moderately  thin,  using  about 
six  pounds  to  the  acre.  The  season  for  sowing  is  about 
the  tenth  of  September,  but  may  be  sown  early  in  the 
spring,  but  then  will  not  come  so  early  into  market,  nor 
yield  so  lieavily  as  when  fall-sown.    It  is  quite  hardy,  and 


140  FARM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 

may  be  exposed  the  entire  winter,  except  in  very  cold 
localities,  where  a  thin  covering  of  coarse  straw  late  in 
the  fall  will  he  beneficial,  and  which  should  be  removed 
quite  early  in  the  spring.  Use  the  push-hoe  as  soon  as 
the  rows  can  be  seen,  and  later  give  a  deep  hoeing,  which 
repeat  again  early  in  spring,  thoroughly  pulverizing  the 
soil. 

Marketing* — It  will  be  marketable  when  the  inner 
leaves  have  become  considerably  grown ;  then  the  larger 
plants  may  be  cut  out  with  a  knife,  and  later  the  crop  may 
be  cut  indiscriminately,  by  running  a  push-hoe  under  the 
rows,  always  cutting  so  as  to  have  all  the  leaves  attached 
to  a  small  part  of  the  root.  The  decayed  ends  of  leaves 
must  be  cut  a'.vay,  after  which  wash  and  place  in  barrels, 
with  holes  at  the  bottom,  and  for  long  distances  it  will  bo 
advisable  to  drain  out  Avell  before  packing. 

Seed. — Much  spinach  seed  is  imported,  but  the  Ameri- 
can-grown is  considered  to  produce  the  most  hardy  plants, 
and  hence  is  preferred  by  market-gardeners.  It  should 
invariably  be  sown  in  the  fall  to  produce  good  seed,  and 
otherwise  grown  as  for  market. 

When  the  seed  is  ripe,  whicli  may  be  known  by  its 
changing  from  green  to  brown,  and  the  leaves  drying 
away,  the  stalks  must  be  pulled,  laid  in  rows  for  a  day  to 
dry,  and  thrashed.  It  ripens  irregularly,  and  two  gather- 
ings will  be  necessary.  After  thrashing,  rake  away  the 
stalks,  and  pass  the  seed  twice  through  the  fan-mill.  A 
considerable  portion  will  be  in  clusters  of  five  or  six  seeds, 
which  may  be  separated  by  rubbing  through  No.  5  sieve. 
Again  pass  through  the  fan-mill,  clean  with  No.  14  sieve, 
and  place  in  a  loft  on  cloths  to  dry,  before  storing.  The 
seed  retains  its  vitality  two  years. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  are  few,  and  that  known  as 
the  Round-leaved  is  the  one  in  general  cultivation. 


SQUASHES.  .141 


SQUASHES. 

These  are  seldom  found  in  market-gardens  ;  they  belgng 
properly  to  the  farm-garden,  and  are  well  adapted  fpr  ship- 
ping. They  are  grown  to  some  extent  at  the  South  for 
Northern  markets,  coming  considerably  earlier  than  we 
can  produce  them,  and  the  season  may  be  advanced  there 
as  well  as  here,  by  starting  the  early  varieties  on  sods,  in 
cold-frames,  as  directed  for  cucumbers,  thereby  also,  in  a 
measure,  avoiding  the  "  striped  bug." 

Soil,  Planting,  etc. — The  soil  for  squashes  should  be 
a  light  loam. 

The  season  for  planting  in  the  open  ground  is  the  middle 
of  May. 

The  preparation  is  the  same  as  for  melons  or  cucumbers, 
as  is  also  the  after-cultivation.  Plant  the  early  or  bush 
varieties  five  by  four  feet,  and  the  late  or  running  sorts 
twelve  by  six  feet  apart.  The  same  attention  must  also 
be  paid  to  the  "  striped  bug,"  which  is  very  destructive 
to  these  plants. 

Marketing! — The  early  varieties  are  marketable  when 
scarcely  half-grown,  always  before  the  skin  becomes  hard, 
and  may  be  shipped  in  barrels.  They  require  some  care 
in  cutting  and  handling  to  avoid  bruising.  The  late  sorts 
must  be  allowed  to  ripen,  and  can  be  shipped  in  barrels  or 
in  bulk. 

Seed* — Great  care  should  be  taken  to  grow  varieties  far 
apart,  as  they  readily  mix  in  the  blossom,  and  moreover 
they  should  not  be  grown  near  melons  nor  anything  of 
this  nature.  When  ripe,  which  may  generally  be  deter- 
mined by  the  hardness  of  the  skin,  the  squashes  may  be 
gathered,  cut  open  with  a  hatchet,  the  seeds  scraped  out, 
and  afterwards  treated  as  directed  for  cucumber  seeds. 

It  retains  its  vitality  ten  years. 


142.  FAEM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 

VARIETIES. 

Early  Scalloped  Bush. —  Of  this  there  are  several 
sub-varieties,  distinguished  by  their  color — white,  yellow, 
striped,  etc. — of  which  the  first  two  are  the  most  popular. 
Plant  large  and  compact ;  fruit  round,  scalloped  about  the 
edge,  oval  next  the  stem,  flat  or  indented  at  the  blossom- 
end. 

Early  Crookneck  Bush.  —  Plant  same  as  the  above; 
fruit  medium  size,  deep  yellow,  partly  crooked,  with 
slender  neck,  and  covered  with  small  wart-like  bunches. 

Boston  Marrow. — Plant  trailing ;  fruit  medium  size, 
egg-shaped,  pointed  at  the  ends;  skin  deep  creamy  yellow. 
The  leading  fall  variety. 

Hubbard. — The  plant,  size,  and  form  same  as  the  above ; 
color  dull  green,  brown  above.  The  leading  winter  variety 
for  market. 

SWEET-POTATOES. 

Universally  cultivated  throughout  the  "United  States, 
and  extensively  grown  at  the  South  for  market.  They  do 
not  stand  handling  so  well  as  the  common  potato,  being 
liable  to  rot  quickly  when  bruised.  They  can  be  profitably 
grown  in  some  parts  of  the  Northern  States  where  the 
soil  is  suitable,  but  as  a  general  rule  are  not  so  dry  and 
fine-flavored  as  when  grown  at  the  "  sunny  South." 

Growing  the  Plants. — The  plants  may  be  grown  in  a 
hot-bed  prepared  as  directed  under  that  head,  substituting 
sand  for  the  common  soil,  or  they  may  be  started  in  a 
cold-frame  in  a  warm  position,  removing  the  earth  and 
using  sand.  They  may  also  be  grown  without  the  aid  of 
sashes  in  a  common  frame,  in  a  warm  and  sheltered  place, 
covering  at  night  with  boards.  In  a  hot-bed  the  tubers 
should  be  started  about  the  twentieth  of  April,  and  in  a 
cold-frame   ten   days   earlier.      In    cither  case  put  two 


SWEET-POTATOES.  143 

inches  of  sand  for  the  bed,  cut  the  potatoes  lengthwise, 
placing  them  thickly  on  the  bed,  cut  side  down,  and  cover- 
ing with  two  inches  of  sand,  which  may  be  increased  to 
four  inches  or  more  as  the  plants  appear.  The  bed  must 
be  kept  moist  but  not  wet,  and  airing  be  attended  to, 
especially  with  the  hot-bed  when  the  plants  are  up.  As 
the  first  shoots  are  pulled,  more  will  ^e  formed  and  grow 
up.  Immense  quantities  of  plants  are  annually  sold,  and 
there  are  few  localities  in  which  a  bed  of  plants  can  not 
be  disposed  of  at  paying  prices.  The  potatoes  for  seed 
are  usually  obtained  from  the  South,  as  they  require  a 
warm,  dry,  and  even  temperature  to  preserve  them.  Seed 
may,  however,  be  saved  at  the  North  by  digging  them  on 
a  dry  day,  placing  in  a  loft  for  a  few  days  to  dry,  after- 
wards packing  in  barrels  with  dry  sand,  and  storing  in  a 
dry,  warm  place,  always  handling  with  the  greatest  care, 
to  avoid  bruising. 

Soil,  Preparation,  and  Planting:. — The  sweet-potato 
requires  a  light  soil,  more  sandy  than  otherwise,  which 
should  also  be  dry  and  warm.  Plow  the  ground  deep, 
harrow  well,  and  mark  out  shallow  furrows  four  feet  apart. 
In  these  place  well-rotted  stable  manure  or  compost,  a 
good  shovelful  to  a  yard  of  row ;  plow  the  earth  from 
both  sides  to  and  over  the  manure,  forming  a  ridge ;  even 
the  surface  thereof,  and  set  the  plants  deeply  over  the 
manure,  fifteen  inches  apart. 

The  land  may  be  marked  out  four  feet  each  way,  a 
shovelful  of  manure  placed  at  the  angles,  and  the  eaith 
raised  over  it,  forming  hills,  in  each  of  which  set  two 
good  plants.  In  cither  case  it  is  well  to  have  the  land 
prepared  and  set  the  plants  after  a  rain.  It  is  hardly  safe 
to  plant  in  this  section  before  the  first  of  June.  The  after- 
cultivation  consists  of  hoeing  the  ridges  and  cultivating 
between,  occasionally  disturbing  the  vines  to  prevent 
them  rooting  at  the  joints. 

Marketing, — Northern-grown    sweet-potatoes  do  not 


144  FARM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 

keep  well  under  the  best  of  circumstances,  and  hence  it 
is  advisable  to  commence  digging  early,  and  sell  them 
direct  from  the  field,  finishing  before  frost  if  possible. 

Tarieties* — The  varieties  are  not  numerous,  the  "  Nan- 
semond  "  being  the  one  generally  conceded  to  bfe  the  best 
for  a  Northern  climate. 

TOMATOES. 

They  are  extensively  grown  for  market,  and  are  an  impor- 
tant crop  for  the  farm-garden.  Fifty  years  ago  they  were 
scarcely  used  for  eating,  while  now  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  bushels  are  annually  consumed  in  this  country,  show- 
ing that  all  vegetable  productions  create  a  mar- 
ket for  themselves,  a  fact  worthy  the  attention  of  those 
who  from  fear  that  the  business  of  vegetable-growing 
may  be  overdone  are  deterred  from  planting  many  crops 
which  they  might  grow  to  advantage. 

Growing  the  Plants. — The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the 
open  ground  after  frost,  but  at  the  Korth  these  plants  will 
be  too  late  to  mature  much  of  the  crop,  though  some  will 
ripen. 

To  grow  them  early  sow  the  seed  in  March  in  a  hot-bed, 
transplant  into  a  new  hot-bed,  and  give  the  same  general 
treatment  as  directed  for  egg-plants,  though  they  do  not 
require  quite  so  much  heat.  For  seed  purposes  or  main 
crop  sow  in  hot-bed  early  in  April,  and  transplant  into  a 
cold-frame,  five  inches  each  way,  covering  with  sashes, 
and  giving  air  clear  days.  By  either  of  these  methods, 
tht3  former  especially,  they  could  be  produced  at  the  South, 
for  the  Northern  market,  a  fortnight  or  more  earlier  than 
they  now  are. 

Soil,  Preparation,  and  Planting.  —  Tomatoes  will 
grow  in  almost  any  soil,  but  to  grow  them  early,  that 
composed  mostly  of  sand  is  best,  and  for  late  and  abun- 
dant yield  a  loamy  soil  is  preferable.     The  ground  should 


TOMATOES.  145 

be  plowed,  harrowed,  and  furrows  made  four  feet  apart 
for  light,  and  five  feet  for  heavier  soils,  cross-furrowing 
three  feet  apart.  At  the  angles  place  a  half-shovelful  of 
well-rotted  manure,  which  mix  with  the  soil,  leaving  the 
mass  hollow,  to  receive  the  plant.  I  have  found  bone- 
phosphate  an  excellent  fertilizer  for  tomatoes  in  loamy- 
soil,  but  prefer  stable-manure  for  early  crops.  The  plant- 
ing maybe  done  from  the  middle  of  May  until  the  middle 
of  June,  taking  up  the  plants  with  balls  of  earth  when  it 
can  be  done,  and  choosing  a  moist  time  for  transplanting. 

Marketing. — The  fruit  should  be  gathered  before  fully 
ripe,  to  be  solid,  and  is  usually  marketed  in  baskets, 
holding  less  than  a  bushel,  or  four  to  a  barrel.  For  ship- 
ping long  distances  small  latticed  crates  should  be  used. 

Seed. — Tomatoes  for  seed  should  be  allowed  to  get  per- 
fectly ripe,  when  they  may  be  gathered,  ground  or  mashed, 
and  placed  in  barrels  to  ferment.  They  may  so  remain 
for  any  reasonable  length  of  time  without  material  injury, 
but  will  be  fit  to  wash  out  in  forty-eight  hours,  and  the 
sooner  thereafter  the  seed  is  washed  the  brighter  it  will  be. 

Wash  through  Nos.  3  and  5  sieves  in  the  manner  of  egg- 
plant. The  seed  is  of  a  spongy  nature  and  retains  much 
moisture,  and  to  facilitate  drying,  when  it  is  taken  out 
from  the  tub  in  No.  10  sieve,  take  the  seed  in  handfuls, 
and  press  firmly  to  remove  the  water,  after  which  spread 
on  shutters  to  dry,  and  treat  the  same  as  all  other  washed 
seeds.  The  very  finest  fruit  should  be  chosen  for  stock 
seed.     The  seed  retains  its  vitality  seven  years. 

Varieties. — ^The  varieties  are  numerous,  but  compara- 
tively few  are  distinct. 

General  Grant. — ^This  may  be  considered  as  the  earliest 
variety,  but  so  far  as  this  is  concerned  there  is  very  little 
difference  between  the  various  sorts,  under  the  same 
treatment.  Fruit  of  medium  size,  flat  and  smooth,  solid 
flesh,  ripens  very  even  ;  color  deep  red. 


!U6  T'AEM-GARDENING   AND   SEED-GKOWINQ. 

Large  Smooth  Red. — This  is  the  leading  sort  about 
"New  York.  Fruit  large,  thick,  generally  smooth,  though 
sometimes  irregular;  solid  flesh,  ripens  even ;  color  bright 
red. 

Cook's  Favorite. — Fruit  medium  size,  round',  and,  uni- 
formly smooth;  solid  flesh;  ripens  uneven,  that  is,  the  part 
next  the  stem  is  frequently  quite  green  in  color  when  the 
other  part  is  ripe  ;  color  bright  red. 

Trophy. — ^A  variety  recently  introduced ;  an  improve- 
ment on  the  Large  Smooth  Red.  Fruit  very  large,  thick 
and  heavy,  very  smooth,  solid  flesh,  ripens  even ;  color  red. 

TURNIPS. 

These  are  seldom  found  in  the  market-garden,  but  ex- 
tensively grown  in  farm-gardens  and  by  regular  farmers. 
They  usually  command  fair  prices,  and  when  the  market 
is  glutted  can  be  fed  out  to  good  advantage.  They  are  a 
first-class  article  for  shipping,  and  the  Ruta-Bagas  are 
often  sent  to  market  by  boat-loads.  The  white,  flat,  early 
varieties  are  grown  to  a  considerable  extent  South,  and 
shipped  to  Northern  markets  in  bunches  or  in  bulk. 

These  may  be  grown  to  advantage  at  the  North,  for 
bunching,  if  sown  very  early.  The  yellow,  especially  the 
Russia  or  Ruta-Bagas,  are  the  most  salable  in  winter. 

Soil  and  Preparation. — ^Turnips  will  grow  in  almost 
any  soil  which  is  moderately  rich.  An  essential  point  is  to 
make  t"hem  grow  quickly,  otherwise  they  are  apt  to  be 
tough  and  woody.  They  do  best  in  light  loamy  soils,  and 
that  which  has  been  manured  for  a  previous  crop  is  pre- 
ferable to  manuring  with  stable-manure  at  the  time  of 
sowing,  as  in  this  case  they  are  liable  to  be  worm-eaten 
and  hence  unsalable.  Bone-flour  is  the  best  fertilizer 
that  can  be  applied  at  the  time  of  sowing,  at  the  rate  of  six 
hundred  pounds  to  the  acre,  broadcast,  and  harrowed  in. 

Only  the  past  fall,  I  had  three  beds  of  Ruta-Bagas,  one 


TUENIPS.  147 

of  which  was  manured  with  stable  manure,  and  the  other 
two  with  bone-flour.  The  former  were  quite  uneven  and 
worm-eaten,  while  the  latter  were  smooth  and  fine,  and 
every  way  superior  to  the  others.  The  land  should  be 
j)lowed  alid  thoroughly  harrowed,  to  reduce  all  lumps, 
and  the  surface  smoothed  by  the  back  of  the  harrow. 

Sowing  and  Cultiyation. — When  the  flat  varieties  are 
grown  early,  for  bunching,  they  had  better  be  sown  thin, 
in  shallow  drills,  fifteen  inches  apart,  push-hoed  when  well 
up,  thinned  to  four  inches  apart,  and  afterwards  have  a 
deep  hoeing. 

Sow  very  early  in  the  spring,  using  two  pounds  of  seed 
to  the  acre. 

When  these  or  the  Stone  varieties  are  grown  late  for 
peed  or  winter  marketing,  sow  the  latter  part  of  August, 
broadcast,  one  pound  of  seed  to  the  acre,  and  harrow 
over  lightly.  The  Russia  or  Ruta-Baga  should  be  sown 
the  middle  of  July,  in  drills  thirty  inches  apart,  to  be 
worked  with  cultivator,  or  twenty  inches  and  worked  with 
a  hoe,  using  one  and  a  half  to  two  pounds  of  seed  to  the 
acre.  In  either  case  they  must  be  thinned  to  six  or  eight 
inches  apart  when  fairly  up,  and  the  soil  occasionally 
stirred. 

These  are  liable  to  be  attacked  when  young  by  the 
"  cabbage  or  turnip  flea,"  in  which  case  the  plants  must 
be  sprinkled  with  lime-dust  early  in  the  morning.  One 
or  two  applications  w^ill  free  them  from  these  pests. 

Marketing. — Early  turnips  are  marketable  when  about 
two  inches  in  diameter.  They  can  be  pulled,  a  part  of  the 
leaves  and  the  tap-root  cut  away,  washed,  tied  in  bunches 
of  five  to  seven,  and  a  part  of  the  tops  may  be  shorn  off. 

They  may  be  shipped  in  well-ventilated  barrels  or 
boxes.  The  dry  roots  should  be  marketed  in  barrels  or  in 
bulk,  and  when  kept  over  winter,  the  sprouts  must  be  cut 
off,  but  they  must  not  be  washed. 


148  FAEM-GAEDENING  AND   SEED-GnOAVING. 

UaryestiH^  and  Storing.— The  roots  should  be  pulled 
about  the  middle  of  November,  topped  and  put  away  as 
directed  in  the  chapter  on  storing  for  winter,  always  being 
careful  not  to  cut  away  the  heart  of  such  as  are  intended 
for  producing  seed. 

Seed. — Turnips  for  seed  must  be  set  out  as  early  as  the 
ground  can  be  worked,  to  insure  a  full  crop. 

They  do  not  require  very  rich  ground ;  that  w  hich  has 
been  manured  the  previous  season  will  not  need  any  more 
fertilizing.  When  not  in  a  fair  state  of  fertility,  apply 
bone-flour  in  the  rows,  a  good  handful  to  about  fifteen 
roots,  before  covering.  The  best  crop  of  turnip  seed  I 
ever  raised  was  manured  in  this  manner.  The  ground 
should  be  loamy  and  well  plowed  and  harrowed.  Mark 
out  light  furrows  three  feet  apart,  and  with  a  dibble  set 
the  turnips  fifteen  inches  apart,  fastening  the  tap-root. 

Cover  with  earth  over  the  whole  root,  leaving  the 
sprouts  above  ground. 

They  will  soon  start  to  grow,  when  they  must  be  culti- 
vated and  hoed,  and  when  they  commence  to  blossom  run 
the  ridge-plow  through  and  draw  the  earth  about  the 
roots  to  support  them  against  stomis.  When  ripe,  which 
may  be  known  by  many  of  the  pods  becoming  dry,  the 
whole  may  be  cut  with  shears  or  sickles.  This  must  be 
done  early  in  the  morning,  while  the  dew  is  still  on,  to 
prevent  shelling  out.  When  the  w^holc  is  dry,  carry  in, 
thrash,  and  clean,  as  directed  for  cabbage  seed.  Avoid 
growing  any  two  varieties  near  each  other,  and  esj^ecially 
the  Ruta-Baga  near  cabbage  seed,  as  they  readily  mix. 

The  seed  is  good  for  four  years. 

Varieties. — The  varieties  are  numerous,  though  but  few 
are  grown  for  market. 

Strap  Leaf  Early  White  Dutch.— Bulb  medium  size ; 
flat,  white,  greenish  above  ground;  leaves  narrow  and 
few;  valuable  only  for  early  use. 


GONCLUSIOX.  149 

strap  Leaf  Red  Top. — Bulb  medium  size,  flat,  white, 
purplish  red  above  ground.  Valuable  for  bunching  and 
early  fall,  not  very  salable  when  the  Ruta-Baga  is  in 
market. 

Yellow  Aberdeen  or  Stone.— Bulb  quite  large,  thick, 

nearly  round,  pale  yellow ;  there  are  two  sub-varieties, 
known  as  "  Purple  Top  "  and  "  Green  Top  "  from  the 
color  above  ground,  the  former  being  generally  preferred. 

Long  White  Cowhorn. — Bulb  large,  long,  somewhat 
crooked,  whence  its  name;  white,  tinged  with  green, 
and  occasionally  pink  above  ground;  very  firm  in  flesh  and 
well-flavored.  Very  valuable  for  stock,  and  decidedly  the 
best  white  turnip  for  family  use  in  winter. 

American  Rnta-Ba^a  or  Russia  Turnip. —This  is 
the  leading  market  variety.  Bulb  large,  semi-long  and 
thick,  smooth,  tapering  at  the  root,  bright  yellow.  There 
are  two  sub-varieties,  distinguished  like  those  of  the 
Aberdeen,  and  the  ''  Purple  Top  "  is  generally  preferred. 

CONCLUSION 

General  Management.— The  old  adage  "  What  is  worth 
doing  at  all  is  worth  doing  well "  applies  very  forcibly  to 
the  business  of  growing  vegetables  or  seeds,  and  it  is 
worse  than  folly  for  any  one  to  carry  on  either  in  a  loose 
and  careless  manner,  and  expect  to  realize  any  profit  there- 
from. Supposing  the  soil  intended  for  this  purpose  and 
all  natural  advantages  to  be  of  the  best,  unless  fertilizers 
are  applied  to  the  land,  commensurate  with  the  crop  taken 
from  it,  an  abundant  yield  can  not  be  of  long  duration, 
and  it  matters  not  how  well  the  land  has  been  prepared, 
by  manuring  and  other  means,  unless  the  crop  is  taken 
care  of  after  it  is  sown  or  planted,  all  previous  labor  and 
expense  will  have  been  in  vain.  To  begin  either  branch 
of  this  business,  on  a  large  scale,  without  experience, 
must  result   in  disappointment    and  loss,  but  for  those 


150  FAKM-6AEDENING   AND   SEED-GROWING. 

among  the  class  of  men  alluded  to  in  the  chapter  on 
"  Farm-Gardening,"  who  have  patience  to  begin  in  a  small 
way,  there  is  an  inviting  prospect  before  them.  Having 
already  noticed  the  importance  of  liberal  manuring  and 
subsequent  care  of  the  crop,  I  might  add  the  great  impor- 
tance of  preventing,  rather  than  destroying,  weeds ;  the 
plowing  and  working  of  the  land  when  in  proper  condi- 
tion ;  the  sowing  of  seeds  or  planting  at  the  proper  time ; 
and,  in  short,  of  doing  all  things  in  season.  By  early  and 
repeated  stirring  of  the  soil,  all  seeds  of  weeds  near  the 
surface  are  destroyed  while  in  the  germ,  and  it  is  a  grave 
mistake  to  wait  until  the  weeds  can  be  seen  before  the 
cultivator  and  hoe  are  resorted  to.  Another  important 
point  is  to  exercise  judgment  in  doing  the  work ;  for  in- 
stance, there  is  little  use  in  hoeing  or  cultivating  when  the 
ground  is  very  wet,  but  that  is  just  the  time  to  pull  weeds 
from  among  the  young  plants  in  the  rows ;  and  so  on, 
through  the  whole  routine,  endeavor  to  arrange  the  work 
according  to  the  weather  or  season,  so  far  as  may  be  prac- 
ticable. During  the  winter  months  preparations  should 
be  made  for  the  spring.  See  that  the  tools  and  all  things 
are  in  repair ;  cart  out  manure  and  place  it  in  large  heaps 
near  where  it  is  to  be  used,  make  up  straw  mats,  mend 
sashes,  get  out  strings  for  bunching  the  next  season,  if 
any  are  to  be  used,  and,  in  short,  anything  that  can  be 
done  should  be  done,  to  save  time  in  the  hurried  season. 
Have  enough  help  at  hand  to  do  the  work  as  it  comes 
along,  and,  as  I  remarked  before,  do  not  put  in  any  more 
crops  than  can  positively  receive  proper  attention.  The 
matter  of  marketing  will  require  some  judgment. 
Green  crops  will  have  to  be  sold  when  fit,  let  the  prices 
be  what  they  may,  but  dry  roots  have  a  season  of  four 
months,  sometimes  selling  highest  in  the  fall,  at  others 
late  in  the  winter,  and  vice  versa.  As  a  rule,  it  is  best  to 
sell  off  the  most  of  any  crop  when  fair  prices  can  be 
obtained. 


NUMBER    OP   PLANTS    OR   HILLS    ON   AX    ACRE.  151 


NUMBER  OF  PLANTS  OR  HILLS  ON  AN  ACRE. 


Ft.      Ft.  Plants. 

40  bj  40 27 

39  by  39 ''.28 

38  by  38 30 

37  by  37 31 

36  by  3(5 33 

35  by  35 35 

34  by  34 37 

33  by  33 40 

33  by  32 43 

31  by  31.. 45 

30  by  30 48 

29  by  29 51 

28  by  28 55 

37  by  27 59 

26  by  26 64 

2.5  by  25 70 

24by24 75 

23  by  23 83 

23  by  23 90 

21  by  21 99 

20  by  20 109 

19  by  19 121 

18  by  18 135 

17  by  17 151 

16  by  16 171 

15  by  15 194 

14  by  14 223 

13  by  13 258 


Ft.  In.     Ft.  In. 


Plants. 


Ft. 

In.  Ft. 

In 

13 

by  13 

10 

6  by  10 

0. 

10 

by  10 

9 

6  by  9 

0. 

9 

by  9 

8 

6  by  8 

6. 

8 

by  8 

7 

6  by  7 

6 

7 

by  7 

0 

6  by  6 

G 

0 

i-y 

6 

5 

Oby  5 

0 

5 

by 

5 

'lants. 

302 

801 

4:36 

483 

538 

003 

680 

775 

889 

1,031 

1,310 

1,440 

1,743 


6  by 

by 

6  bv 

by 

by 

by 

by 

by 

6  by 

6  by 

6  by 

6  by 

by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 

8  by 

8  by 

8  by 

8  by 

8  by 

8  by 

8  by 

8 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

4 

4 

4 


by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 
by 


6 3,151 

2,723 

6 3,556 

4,840 

6 5,808 

7,260 

6 9,680 

14,520 

6 6,969 

8,713 

6 11,616 

17,424 

10,890 

6 14,496 

4 16,335 

3 18,668 

21,780 

10 21,969 

8 33,670 

6 43,560 

15,681 

17,434 

19,603 


0 

4 

2 23,403 

26,136 

10 31,363 

8 39,204 

6 53,273 

6 19,668 

4 23,058 

2 25,288 

29,040 

10 34,a59 

8 43,560 

6 58,0S0 

8 49,005 

6 65,340 

4 98,010 

43,560 

8 65,340 

0 87,120 

4 130,680 


NEW  AMEEIGAH  FAEM  BOOK. 


K, 


ORIGINALLT  ET 


AxrrnoR  02*  "diseases  of  domi:stic  axi-jtals,"  aitd  formsrlt  iiditoh  oy 

TnE  "AaiERICAIT  agriculttjbist." 

ItEVISED  AND  ENLAEGED  BT 


AUTHOR  OS*   "A3IERICAK  CATTLE,"   EDITOR  OF  THE 
HERD  BOOK,"   ETC. 

C  0:N"TElSrTS: 


AMEBIC  AIT  SnORT-nOR 


Introduction. — Tillage  Ilusbandry 
— Grazing — Feeding  —  Breeding  — 
Planting,  etc. 

Chapter  I.— Soils  —  Classiflcation— 
Description  —  Management  —  Pro- 
perties. 

Chapter  II. — Inorganic  Manures- 
Mineral  —  Stone  —  Earth.  —  Plios- 
phatic. 

Chapter  III.  —  Organic  Manures  — 
Their  Composition — Animal— Ve- 
getable. 

Chapter  IV. — ^Irrigation  and  Drain- 
ing. 

Chapter  V. — Mechanical  Divisions 
of  Soils  —  Spading  —  Plowing— Im- 
plements. 

Chapter  VI. — The  Grasses — Clovers 
—  Meadows  —  Pastures  —  Compara- 
tive Values  of  Grasses— Implements 
for  their  Cultivation. 

Chapter  VII. — Grain,  and  its  Culti- 
vatioa  —  Varieties  —  Growth — Ilar- 
vesting. 

Chapter  VIII. — Leguminous  Plants 
— ^The  Pea — Bean  —  English  Field 
Bean — Tare  or  Vetch— Cultivation 
— Harvesting. 

Chapter  IX.— Roots  and  Esculents- 
Varieties — Growth  —  Cultivation  — 
Securing  the  Crops — Uses — Nutri- 
tive Equivalents  ot  Different  Kinds 
of  Forage. 

Chapter  X. — Fruits— Apples— Cider 
— Vinegar — Pears — Quinces— Plums 
Peaches  —  Apricots  —  Nectarines  — 
Smaller  Fruits— Planting— Cultiva- 
tion—Gatherinc'— Preserving. 

Chaptkr  XL— Miscellaneous  Objects 
of  Cultivation,  aside  from  the  Or- 
dinary Farm  Crops — Broom-corn— 
Flax— Cotton— Hemp— Sugar  Cano 
Sorghum— Maple  Sugar  —Tobacco — 
Indigo— Madder— Wood— Sumach- 
Teasel  —  Mustard  —  Hops  —  Castor 
Bean.     

Chapter  XII.— Aids  and  Objects  of 
Agriculture  —  Rotation  of  Crops, 
and  their  Eflfects— Weeds— Restora- 


tion of  Worn-out  Soils— Fertilizing 
Barren  Lands— Utility  of  Birds- 
Fences — Hedges  — Farm  Roads — 
Shade  Trees— \Vood  Lands— Time 
of  Cutting  Timber — Tools— Agri- 
cultural Education  of  the  Farmer. 

Chapter  XIIL  — Farm  Buildings- 
House  —  Barn — Sheds  —  Cisterns  — 
Various  other  Outbuildings— Steam- 
ing Apparatus. 

Chapter  XIV.— Domestic  Animals 
— Breeding — Anatomy— Respiration 
— Consumption  of  Food. 

Chapter  XV.— Neat  or  Homed  Cattle 
Dsvons  —  Herefords- Ayreshires  — 
Galloways  —  Short  -horns  —  Alder- 
neys  or  Jerseys— Dutch  or  Holstein 
— Slana^ement  from  Birth  to  Milk- 
ing, Labor,  or  Slaughter. 

Chapter  XVL— The  Dairy- Milk- 
Butter— Cheese— Different  Kinds- 
Manner  of  Working, 

Chapter  XVI L  —  Sheep  —  Merino- 
Saxon— South  Down  —  The  Long- 
wooled  Breeds— Cotswold— Lincoln 
—  Breeding  —  Management  —  Shep- 
herd Dogs. 

Chapter  XVIIT. —The  Horse— De- 
scription of  Different  Breeds— Their 
Various  Uses — Breeding- Manage- 
ment. 

Chapter  XIX. —The  Ass— Mule  — 
Comparative  Labor  of  Working 
Animals. 

Chapter  XX.  —  Swine  —  Different 
Breeds  —  Breeding— Rearing  —  Fat- 
tening— Curing  Pork  and  Hams. 

Chapter  XXI.  —  Poultry — Ht-ns,  or 
Barn-door  Fowls  —  Turkey  —  Pea- 
cock—Guinea Hen — Goose — Duck 
— Honey  Bees. 

Chapter  XXII — Diseases  of  Ani- 
mals  — What  Authority  Shall  We 
Adopt  ?  —  Sheep  —  Swine  —  Treat- 
ment and  Breeding  of  Horses. 

Chapter  XXIIL— Conclusion— Gene- 
ral Remarks  —  The  Farmer  who 
Lives  by  his  Occupation— The  Ama- 
teur Farmer— Sundry  Useful  Tables. 


BENT  POST-PAID,  PKICE  $2.50. 

ORANGE    JUDD    &    CO., 

245    Broadway,    Nofv-Xprk. 


AMERICAN   CATTLE: 

Theip   History,    Breeding,   and    IVIanagement. 

By  LEWIS   F.  ALLEN, 

Lata  President   New- York  State  Agricultural  Society,  Editor  "American 
Short-Uorn  Herd  Book,"  Author  "  Rural  Architecture,"  etc.,  etc. 


Notices  by  the  Press. 

Wb  consider  this  the  most  valuable  work  that  has  recently  been  issued 
from  the  American  press.  It  embraces  all  branches  of  the  important  subject, 
and  fills  a  vacancy  in  our  agricultural  literature  for  which  work  the  author,  by 
his  many  years'  experience  and  observation,  was  eminently  fitted.  ...  It 
ought  to  be  in  the  hands  of  every  owner  of  cattle,  and  the  country,  as  well  as 
individuals,  would  soon  be  much  richer  for  its  teachings.— Jowrno^  of  Agri- 
culture, (St.  Louis.) 

The  large  experience  of  the  author  in  improving  the  character  of  Ameri- 
can herds  adds  to  the  weight  of  his  observations,  and  has  enabled  him  to  pro- 
duce a  work  which  will  at  once  make  good  its  claims  as  a  standard  authority 
on  the  subject.  An  excellent  feature  of  this  volume  is  its  orderly,  methodical 
arrangement,  condensing  a  great  variety  of  information  into  a  comparatively 
small  compass,  and  enablinoj  the  reader  to  find  the  point  on  which  he  is  seek- 
ing light,  without  wasting  his  time  in  turning  over  the  leaves.— i\r.  Y.  Tribune. 

This  will  rank  among  the  standard  works  of  the  country,  and  will  be  con- 
sidered indispensable  by  every  breeder  of  liwe-stocli.— Practical  FarTner,(Phila.) 

We  think  it  is  the  most  complete  work  upon  neat  stock  that  we  have 
seen,  embodying  as  it  docs  a  vast  amount  of  research  and  careful  study  an4 
observation.— fmco/wm  Farmer. 

His  history  of  cattle  in  general,  and  of  the  individual  breeds  in  particular 
which  occupies  the  first  one  hundred  and  eighty  pages  of  the  volume,  is  writ- 
ten with  much  of  the  grace  and  charm  of  an  Allison  or  a  Macaulay.  His  de, 
Bcription  of  the  leading  breeds  is  illustrated  by  cuts  of  a  bull,  a  cow,  and  a 
fat  ox,  of  each  race.  The  next  one  hundred  pages  are  devoted  to  the  sub- 
ject of  Breeding.  This  is  followed  by  chapters  on  Beef  Cattle,  Working  Oxen, 
Miich  Cows,  Cattle  Food,  Diseases,  etc.  The  arrangement,  illustrations,  an- 
alytical index,  etc.,  of  the  work  are  in  the  best  style  of  modem  book-mak- 
ing.—iVew-^'ftgr/a/wi  Farmer. 

The  work  is  one  that  has  been  long  needed,  as  it  takes  the  place  of  the 
foreign  books  of  like  nature  to  which  our  farmers  have  been  obliged  to  refer, 
and  furnishes  in  a  compact  and  well-arranged  volume  all  they  desire  upon  this 
important  suhjcct— Maine  Farmer. 

Whatever  works  the  stock-farmer  may  already  have,  he  can  not  afford  to 
do  without  this.— Ohio  Farmer. 

It  is  one  of  the  best  treatises  within  our  knowledge,  and  contains  infor- 
mation sound  and  sensible  on  every  Tpage.—The  People,  {Concord,  If.  H.) 

The  object  of  the  work,  as  stated  by  the  author  in  his  preface,  "  is  not  only 
to  give  a  historical  acccount  of  the  Bovine  race,  to  suggest  to  our  farmers  an<J 
cattle-breeders  the  best  methods  of  their  production  and  management,  but  to 
exalt  and  ennoble  its  pursuit  to  the  dignity  to  wliich  it  is  entitled  in  the  vari- 
ous departments  of  American  agriculture."  From  the  little  examination  we 
have  been  able  to  give  it,  we  can  not  recommend  it  too  \As\x\y.— Canada 
Farmer. 

Considering  that  there  are  some  ten  million  milch  cows  in  the  United 
States,  and  nearly  a  thousand  million  of  dollars  invested  in  cattle,  the  magni» 
tude  of  this  interest  demands  that  the  best  skilled  talent  be  devoted  to  the 
improvement  of  the  various  breeds  and  the  investigation  of  the  best  method 
of  so  caring  for  the  animals  as  to  gain  the  greatest  profit  from  them.  This 
volume  will  give  the  farmer  just  the  instruction  which  he  wants.- iT.  T.  Inde. 
pendent. 

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GARDENING  FOR  PROFIT, 

In  the  Market  and  Family  G-arden. 
By  Peter  Henderson. 

This  is  the  first  work  on  Market  Gardening  ever  published  in  thia 
country.  Its  author  is  well  known  as  a  market  gardener  of  twenty 
years'  successful  experience.  In  this  work  he  has  recorded  this 
experience,  and  given,  without  reservation,  the  methods  necessary 
to  the  profitable  culture  of  the  commercial  or 

MIA^IlIvET     OA.Itr>EIV. 

It  is  a  work  for  which  there  has  long  been  a  demand,  and  one 
which  will  commend  itself,  not  only  to  those  who  grow  vegetables 
for  sale,  but  to  the  cultivator  of  the 

FAMILY  GARDEN, 

to  whom  it  presents  methods  quite  difierent  from  the  old  ones  gen- 
erally practiced.  It  is  an  original  and  purely  American  work,  and 
not  made  up,  as  books  on  gardening  too  often  are,  by  quotations 
from  foreign  authors. 

Every  thing  is  made  perfectly  plain,  and  the  subject  treated  in  all 
its  details,  from  the  selection  of  the  soil  to  preparing  the  products 
for  market. 

CONTENTS. 

Men  fitted  for  the  Business  of  Gardening. 

The  Amount  of  Capital  Kequired,  and 

"Working  Torce  per  Acre. 

Profits  of  Market  Gardening. 

Ijocation,  Situation,  and  Xiaying  Out. 

Boils,  Drainage,  and  Preparation. 

Manures,  Implements. 

Uses  and  Management  of  Cold  Frames. 

Formation  and  Management  of  Hot-bed«. 

Forcing  Pits  or  Green-houses. 

Seeds  and  Seed  Haising. 

How,  When,  and  WTiere  to  Sow  Seeds. 

Transplanting,  Insects. 

Packing  of  Vegetables  for  Shipping. 

Preservation  of  Vegetables  in  Winter. 

Vegetables,  their  Varieties  and  Cultivation. 

In  the  last  chapter,  the  most  valuable  kinds  are  described,  and 
tlie  culture  proper  to  each  is  given  in  detail. 

Sent   post'paid,   price  $1.50. 

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ROSE   TERRY, 
MARIA   R.   OAKEY, 
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INCITY,  VILLAGE  and   COUNTRY, 
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LIBRARY,  UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIfORNIA,  DAVIS 

Book  Slip-50n?-9,'70(N9877s8) 458— A-31/5, 


N?  873087 

SB32I 
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Fann- gardening  and  seed- 
growing  . 


LIBRARY 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA 

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